Tripmaster Repair - New Questions

[Roy_W]

Just got my @t, love it already, but the bloody tacho on the TripMaster doesn't work - The clock works and no problem with resets but the Trip counters 1,2 and CountDown don't work, they just remain at Zero, althought twice I have seen small increments. So I presume that the counters do work it's just that they are not recieving the appropriate signal.

I have scoured the forums looking at the various problems and their remedies,

* Unplugged the battery for a reset, verified battery connections.

* Bad connectors - I have already unplugged and verified/sprayed a dose of WD40 on all the connectors I could reach after removing the fairing, sidepanels and the tank.

* I have no other electrcial problems - So I presume the battery, CDI and other major electrical equipement are all OK.

* I have removed and cleaned all fuses -no problems there.

* I have checked for loose/cut electrcial cables - No apparent problems there.

* No modification have been made to the tripmaster ( yet ).


OK my next step will be to remove the TripMaster and open it up, with the speedo to follow.


So here goes for the questions.

1 : Does the engine have to be running before the Trip master (tacho) increments the KM's.

2 : With the engine off but the ignition on, should the tacho increment
when spinning the front wheel - I have a centre stand and a LOG.

3 : Which wires can be tested, via a multimeter, and what reading should I expect when the front wheel is spinning.

4 : Is there a method which will let me send a correct electrical impusle to the TripMaster in order to detemine if the fault lies elewhere, would like to try this while the TripMaster has been removed.

5 : Any advice about any dangers or problems that may occur when removing the back plate from the Tacho or from the Speedo, or far that matter when replacing them.

I have the haynes manuel and a large format print of the wiring diagram to help me along.

I don't want to pay for new gear and would like to try and find/repair the fault before searching for a new/used Trip and/or Speedo.

Would be glad for information that anyone can offer for any/all of the questions.


Cheers Roy

[DaveS]

Sounds just like my problem.
Was down to the speedo not sending a signal to the tripmaster.
According to the Haynes you should be able to detect a pulse coming from the output on the speedo that goes to the Tripmaster. I couldn't detect anything, and I wasn't going to buy a new speedo unit, so bought the Touratech IMO300.

[BobA]

Roy

I don't have a Tripmaster, but all I can say is, practically anything can be repaired, so stick with my man.

The sense of satisfaction when you fix it will be great, so good luck.


Regards

Bob

[red dragon]

try this out fellas. i found this site somehow and just rediscovered it again. should do the trick if you are handy with a soldering iron and have a knack for seeing teeny tiny thingymajigs when you open your metre. might as well as its broke anyways!!
hope this helps

http://digilander.libero.it/nik.web/tripmaster.htm

oh yes,one last thing. its in italian but the directions are spot on( i asume as i dont read italian )

[BobA]

Red'

I've a feeling, scanning it with my pigeon Italian, that this is a modification for MPH.


Bob

[Roy_W]

Sounds just like my problem.
Was down to the speedo not sending a signal to the tripmaster.
According to the Haynes you should be able to detect a pulse coming from the output on the speedo that goes to the Tripmaster. I couldn't detect anything, and I wasn't going to buy a new speedo unit, so bought the Touratech IMO300.

I've read up on the specs and this looks like it will be my solution should I fail to repair the Trip. Amongst the basic functionality I like the idea of displaying the temperatures. How difficult was the installation and do they supply the brackets.

[Roy_W]

Sounds just like my problem.
Was down to the speedo not sending a signal to the tripmaster.
According to the Haynes you should be able to detect a pulse coming from the output on the speedo that goes to the Tripmaster. I couldn't detect anything, and I wasn't going to buy a new speedo unit, so bought the Touratech IMO300.

I have stripped everything down to the minimum and hav verifed the blue/white green/black and black wire coming from the speedo, whilst spinning the front wheel, all of them seem to have a constant 15-16 volts permanently, never seems to vary. Don't know if I should be verifying something other than voltage though ?

I did the "10K Resistor modi = Show Kms/hour" and my Trip now displays KM/h although it doesn't help much considering that the Trip doesn't recieve the signal, so just shows 0 Kms/h when travelling.

I'm almost certain that the problem comes from the circuit just behind the Speedo, the place where the speedo cable spins the "magnetic wheel".
I have no idea if I can simulate the same "pulse" by using some other device.

I need to find someone with an @t in my region and swap speedo/tripmaster in order to verify exactlly which item is faulty.



Cheers Roy

[Roy_W]

Did a little more work Sunday afternoon..

OK now I know that the speedo and trip master both work, BUT, only up until 7 km/h, then the Trip Master just goes back to zero again. When I pull off or arrive at a junction, the trip kicks as long as I am under 7km/h.

Anyone any ideas as to what I should verify now ...



( I can strip the fairings and side panels blind folded know )..

[rd07luis]

Hi
In Portugal nobody knows what is the problem. Mine does exactly the same thing. I have posted here a few months ago and got no feedback.
Hope that this time, you will solve this question.
Thanks

[z-weiser]

does this relate to the other threat about connections going green and fuzzy??

could it be that the signal isn't getting there due to green fuzzyness?

i am going to clean all of my connectors and if that doesn't work then i am going to try to bypass the connection with a seperate piece of wire and see if this remedies the cutting out problem.

as for the only working at low speeds thing it may be that something inthe spinny-doofer is loose then the fasted it spins the more it moves and doesn't contact/register.

i will have a look at mine and let you know my findings

Z