I repaired my tripmaster

[throll]

Problem: my tripmaster has not increase km stand over few hundreds km.. if ever than only for 0,1km on 100 - 200km. I coudn't operate him via buttons... he was frozen... (I coudn't change time, trips etc.. )

I coudn't find answers on Inet, only questions.... because I'm electro engineer, I tried it to repair by myself. First question was how to bring tripmaster to life on table with 12V power supply.. .. OK.. not so difficult... +12V on +B , ground on GND... but you have to make bridge between +B and IG pins, than tripmaster gets info that you "turned a key"... (links from display when you look from display side)
Next problem was that I downloaded datasheet from Toshiba about TA6005F (IC2) which is 5V voltage regulator with watchdog timer. The japans are strange they mix Vcc on Uot... but at the end they made not out of standard and pin 14 is 12V supply for IC and pin 4 is 5V output voltage.. complete tripmaster has normal TTL logic, like I found out.... that mean when I measured 1,9V at buttons, there was a fail... at the end I found out, that Electrolyte capacitor (C9?) was broken...

My @T is produced in 1994... and its only question of time when Electrolyte capacitors will loose a liquid especially in higher temperature.... therefore I suggest to everybody to replace electrolytes before start to change expensive IC's.. you can find out if one electrolyte is broken, that if you start to solder him with soldering iron, it smells like two weeks fish on sunshine...

photo:


TA8005F datasheet:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/data.../TA8000F.shtml
there I had confusion at pin 14 is wrote OUT and pin 4 Vcc... I THINK it should be oposite...

[Roy_W]

Hi Throll,

I believe that I have the same problem as you but I cannot verify before this weekend. I think that your information could become very useful for many people.

Did you make notes about the various tests and results that you have performed.

Can you please share the tests / values with us in order that we can perform the same tests.

It could be an excellent idea to make a compilation of all electrical tests that can be performed on each of the various electrical/electronic devices.
This would be extremely helpfull for fault finding at all levels.

Personnally i am particularly interested in the reading from the Tripmaster and the "Sending unit" that is housed behind the Tachometer.


Cheers
Roy

[throll]

Sorry mate I made not any notes, I was seaching for problem, between solwing problems in work and meetings... therefore I don't remember all... but I remember:

side swiches(buttons) swich 10KOhm resistors to 0 (bridge) and Adjust button swich shortcut between bottom 2 pins to upper 2 pins..(like on picture)...

and at the middle pin of side swiches in good condition shoul be 5V

the ZD1 seems to be a protection diode of 12V input ...(somewhere I have read 27V)...

[niedi]

If tripm. always reset - check signal (5V) on the TA8005 [10-CK].
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datashee...A/TA8005F.html

I have this problem. In lab i measure in [10-CK] 5V or 0V - this signal is variable and bring reset. But I still don't know where is reason of disappear signal.
Have somebady schematic diagram of tripmaster?

[Les666]

dont know if this will help but I had the same problem.... bought a second unit to replace a defective one, when I disconnected the original unit from the bike the plug had green muck all over one of the contacts...cleaned both sides male and female and it all worked fine. Have heard of a few others who have had this problem.

[niedi]

bought a second unit to replace a defective one, when I disconnected the original unit from the bike the plug had green muck all over one of the contacts....

What kind of unit You replace?
I testing my tripm. in lab - this eliminated fact bad contacts in electrical system AT.

[Les666]

I took out the whole unit (tripmaster), long black wire with plug to bike.

[bandi]

YES IT WORKED! I REPLACED THE CAPACITORS (not the ones specified in the initial message, you should check them) AND NOW WE'RE BACK IN BUSINESS! Probably the other capacitors will break sooner or later but at least I know what's the problem.

THANKS THROLL FOR THE ADVICE, THANKS "MAMA MURGU" - THE FINE LADY WHO DID THE TINKERING

I also added the 10K resistor and now I also have the speed on the digital display

[Steve C]

Great thread. I'm not an engineer of any description but if it's broken anyway, even I can replace a few capacitors

However - - I don't suppose anyone has a clever fix for the rubber covers for the buttons?

[bandi]

Great thread. I'm not an engineer of any description but if it's broken anyway, even I can replace a few capacitors

However - - I don't suppose anyone has a clever fix for the rubber covers for the buttons?

I think that the first part is to identify the broken ones and then to find the replacement pieces that fit. The ones I have are made to withstand 105 degrees Celsius as compared to 85 degrees the original ones (Mama Murgu told me that)

As for the rubber covers it was pretty difficult to wear them since the tripmaster wasn't working. good luck

Hey Dave, since it's so successful shouldn't we make a sticky out of this post?

PS And since you're there change the f%cking bulb, I noticed it burnt after finishing the assembling (fairing & all)