My bike is ill... again....

[kiroh]

With the weather getting colder in the mornings the engine runs poorly and coughs and splurts petrol until it's properly warmed up after about 5-10 minutes. I am guessing that the fuel mixture is too rich, but this only started happening for the last month and I haven't done any modifications to the bike recently. Any ideas where to look?

And something else - the local garage quoted 2-3 hours for valve adjustment, because AT valves are of different (more complicated) type!?!?! Is this not just a cheeky way to get more money out of me. Anything different to AT valves? Why should I pay in excess of £100 for valve adjustment?

Cheers

[robelst]

Not sure about the splutter, if the bike runs well later on it could just be a bit of condensed water (sunny days, cool nights in this time of year).

Valves: The valves themselves are actually easy to adjust (no shims, only 6 of them), it is just that you need to almost take the whole bike apart to get at the ones of the front cylinder and even then it's a pain. 2 to 3 hours is not bad, I usually reserve a whole day for this ritual but then I am a really slow worker

[kiroh]

Valves: The valves themselves are actually easy to adjust (no shims, only 6 of them), it is just that you need to almost take the whole bike apart to get at the ones of the front cylinder and even then it's a pain. 2 to 3 hours is not bad, I usually reserve a whole day for this ritual but then I am a really slow worker

This is my dilemma right now - shall I give the bike to the local shop for valve and carb adjustment, or do it myself. Don't mind if it takes all day, so long I know what to do and have all the tools necessary.

So... valve adjustment - should I trust the Haynes manual and my set of flat screw drivers and a hammer, or do I need more than that?

Cheers

[Dilbert]

So... valve adjustment - should I trust the Haynes manual and my set of flat screw drivers and a hammer, or do I need more than that?

I suggest you add a small ring spanner (probably 10mm everything else is?) and some feeler guages so you know what to set them to

I think Yen or someone suggested taking the head cover off altogether rather than fiddling around thro' the tappet cover holes?

Like Robelst said the problem is getting the seat, tank, side panel, etc off first, this is what takes the time, on a "normal" bike you can usually get straight in and on a beemer they're stuck out the sides to make it even easier (well it would have to be easier wouldn't it )

[hurbie]

forget about taking the headcover off,

on my rd03 i could'nt get the rear one off.....there's not enough space to get it past the frame.....



been there done that ......trying to replace the gasket

[xrv_jim]

I think Yen or someone suggested taking the head cover off altogether rather than fiddling around thro' the tappet cover holes?

Yep, I do mine that way too. On the RD07 the rear cover will come off without too much problem but there's not enough clearance to completely remove the front one - but you can carefully prop it up and get to the valve through the generous gap.

IMHO it's a way better method than trying to remove the tappet covers. Just be careful with the rubber gaskets - they're meaty but easily damaged.

[kiroh]

Like Robelst said the problem is getting the seat, tank, side panel, etc off first, this is what takes the time, on a "normal" bike you can usually get straight in and on a beemer they're stuck out the sides to make it even easier (well it would have to be easier wouldn't it )

Remove seat, side panels, tank, air box - done that. What's next and how easy is it to get to the valves from there?

Just trying to estimate how much work there is...

Cheers

[Dilbert]

Buy a Haynes you cheapskate

Once you have all the above off you will need to be able to rotate the motor, this means getting the rear wheel off the ground, easy if you've got a centre stand or a hydraulic jack otherwise make like a scouser and get it up on a pile of bricks (or something).
next take off the tappet covers or the whole head cover (whatever) and also take off the spy hole covers in your LH side engine (alternator) cover, use proper allen key sockets for this and go gently a light tap should break the initial grip, overload them and you'll turn out the hexagon (like mine, but not me honest), now you can either wind the engine round with it in second by rotating the rear wheel or crank the engine over in nuetral using the alternator rotor bolt (clockwise so you're not trying to undo the rotor).
When you get the marks lined up through the upper spy hole you slip in the correct size feller gauge, if the guage won't go in the tappet is too tight and if it's loose under the tappet screw then guess what?
You will need to check a Haynes or Honda manual for the correct alignment and feeler guage thicknesses (or someone here will probably know).
To adjust a tappet undo the locking nut and wind the screw in or out, easiest way is to wind it out and then back in till it just starts to grip the feeler, then lock down the locknut, then check the gap again and check the locknut, then on to the next setting till all six are done, then just before you put the covers back on check the locknuts!
You won't get it right first time and it's a fiddly job to get in, so take your time, allow yourself an afternoon and if you get it done quicker then great, but if it takes longer don't panic, just carry on till you get it right.
When you've done it a couple of times you'll wonder what all the fuss is about
Oh and keep a pack of plasters ready for you knuckles

[kiroh]

Buy a Haynes you cheapskate

Got two - one in the garage, one by bedside for light reading. Haynes is a good manual but usually jobs are slightly different to what's in it, so I needed some real live advise. So thanks for that Dilbert.

[Dilbert]

Note to self, remember to read all the post, especially where Kiroh says he already has a manual before slagging him off