What type and brand of oil do you like?

[pinoy-al]

What type of oil do you run? I have always had good luck with good old Castrol for years but here in the Philippines where the weather is warm, I have been thinking of going to a synthetic. What's a good one at a fair price? :idea:

[Breeze]

I have always used Motul V300 on my other bikes and that is what I intend to put in my AT when the time comes.
Not cheap though, but then I think it's a good investment as far as engine protection goes.

[Tarka]

I don`t believe in using synthetic oils in road engines.

I can understand the benefits of a high performance,low friction,fast flowing oil in a racing application......and hence we have synthetic oils, and the perception that they`re better because they`re used in racing,but for road use I believe a mineral oil is more than adequate.

Mineral oil should certainly be used for the first few thousand miles of an engine`s life to assist the bedding-in procedure (as per BMW twins for at least the first 6000 miles),as synthetics prevent this.

Synthetics are promoted as 'longer lasting' but that`s not necessarily a good thing.
If you consider that all the significant and damaging wear occurs during cold starting,and think about just how many times a roadbike is cold started,then add to the equation all the particles and contaminants that will be suspended in the oil,then I`d rather change the oil twice as often as in any service schedule.....and that would be very expensive given the expense of synthetics.

Therefore I reckon a good,suitable specification,mineral oil....changed at about 3000 mile intervals (maximum),is ideal for a roadbike.
On the XLV I use Castrol GP mineral....the red colour even matches the bike`s paint,heh heh.

If you`re worried about extremes of temperature,then perhaps it`s worth checking and changing the GRADE of oil rather than type.....such as using a 15w/50 or 20w/50 in high temperatures rather than a 10w/40.

Sorry about waffling on,but it may be of use to someone....
(plus I`m in work and have got lots of time available... )

[africajim]

Agree, full synthetic's a waste of money on an @T!

The engine doesn't perform to the mind bending five figures on the rev counter so IMHO doesn't need it. Another issue I've found with synthetic is it tends to get past the rings and burn. Any bike I've had with synthetic, after a good thrash you can smell the sweetness when you stop.

Any way, proof of the pudding time, I've used Rock oil semi synthetic in all my @T's, over 30,000 miles on them all and never needed to top up between services. No engine issues ever. The RD04 engine is a robust piece of kit, it doesn't take high revs to get power out of it and well serviced should run for over 100,000 miles with no problems.

I am using Silkolene synthetic now though, as the Tiger revs freely into the red and trips the rev limiter at around 10,500rpm. As all the power's up there I feel it prudent to feed it the"good stuff"!

And after a good thrash it smells sweet!

[Dilbert]

As above the AT's an older design engine and doesn't need synthetic oil.

[Jenna]

I am going to have disagree with you guys as regard to use of synth in general use ( never had an @ engine on test bed so i wont comment on this exact engine as a specific), i think after any engine is bedded in and it is in reasonable condition any good quality Synth oil is certainly of equal or better value in both the aspects of reduced wear and oil longevity.

I did a hell of a lot of testing some years back for Land rover on V8's using Amsoil and i totally belive its the right way to go, Further more the financial benefits are easy to se with a good synth easily out lasting a quality mineral by inexcess of 300%!.. I wont even touch on the saved hassel factor of changing oils and the increased performance you obtain with synth over mineral under continual stressed loading.

Check you figures and you will find even milk under certain conditions can out perform mineral oil!!!

[Breeze]

My fondness regarding synth comes from the same facts that Jenna has pointed out.
Almost certainly mineral oil is more than enough, but I still think I should use the best oil I can buy, so I'll stick with synth.

[Tarka]

Jenna,

I won`t dispute what you say about synthetic oil longevity...nor even the comment about milk (having seen the tests done where engines are running with Coca Cola in their sumps),but given the difference between a race engine that`s only allowed to be worked hard when at optimum temperature....or an engine that`s only run for long distances ... and a typical road engine that`s frequently started and stopped,and often doesn`t really get to optimum temperature (or not for long if it does),then I`d rather be changing the oil frequently.....and with mineral,which I`m sure is perfectly fine for any road engine not revving to the stratosphere .

Just my tuppence worth.

[Tarka]

My fondness regarding synth comes from the same facts that Jenna has pointed out.
Almost certainly mineral oil is more than enough, but I still think I should use the best oil I can buy, so I'll stick with synth.

Yes...indeed....but you`re just wasting your hard earned (I assume ) money due to clever marketing policy.

It may well be the 'best'....but totally unneccessary.

[Jenna]

My fondness regarding synth comes from the same facts that Jenna has pointed out.
Almost certainly mineral oil is more than enough, but I still think I should use the best oil I can buy, so I'll stick with synth.

Yes...indeed....but you`re just wasting your hard earned (I assume ) money due to clever marketing policy.

It may well be the 'best'....but totally unneccessary.

how can you be waisting money if it lasts longer? and its proven synth oils have better wear prevention than mineral at lower temps thanks its wider operating range so in theory its of more benefit to a 'road' bike that start and stops often and has a lower operating temp.

higher cost is equaled out due to additional life. and I firmly believe you use the best of any product available if cost the same as the cheap one... are you telling me you would buy a cheap pattern part over the OEM honda one if the price was the same????