Hazard switch add-on

[bandi]

hello everybody,

trying to fit a hazard switch to my AT (whatever the reasons) and found 2 options so far:

1. a double switch to bypass the left/right original switch
2. a complicated single-switch-and-relay that would bypass either left/right positions in the original switch and also connect left and right circuits

questions:
- any reason not to use first option?
- any other options that I should take into consideration for a good reason?

thanks

PS circuit versions - tried to attach them, in case my "Spanglish" gave you headaches but no success. any help?...

[Tarka]

I forget who supplies it,but you can buy a 'Hazard Kit' ready to fit.
Most motor factors should sell them,if not bike accessory stockists.
All you`d need is 'dash space' to mount the switch.

[bandi]

I forget who supplies it,but you can buy a 'Hazard Kit' ready to fit.
Most motor factors should sell them,if not bike accessory stockists.
All you`d need is 'dash space' to mount the switch.

thanks, found something like this however price & shipping to Bucharest may be an issue... http://www.kriss.com/hazardflasher.htm

[Jenna]

Maplin electronics sells a 12v multipole relay that you can replace the exsisting relay with that will give you both hazzards and normal indicators.

We fit these on the vintage Land Rovers/Beach buggies after referbish... requires a little bit of soildering and wire work to match up to a loom but its not exactly rocket science ( yes even i can do it! )


Maplin cat page for relay N32AW (£3.54)

[BobA]

Bandi

As far as my limited electrical knowledge can tell from your description, I think a simple double pole switch would be OK, as long as you do not introduce a continous path between the left and right hand circuits when the hazard light switch is not in the on position.

The only other factor that I think will matter is, the OE flasher unit is designed to have 2 x 21watt (I think for the AT) + the 5w dash light indicator bulbs (its nominal load) working through it at any one time. By wiring in the switch, you will in effect be expecting the simple flasher unit to handle 4 x 21 watt + the 5w dash bulb.

The flasher unit is only a simple bi-metallic strip that relys on passing current to heat and cool the strips, making and breaking the circuit. The increase in current will hopefully just make the x4 lights just flash faster (than x2) but could screw up/weld it in one position (making them stay on).

Let us know how you get on, and maybe do a wiki if poss, telling us all which wires/components etc, so other members can have a go.

Regards

Bob

[stageonesimmo]

Bob makes a very good point there - the standard unit is only a little 'un and although it may well handle the extra current, I doubt it would last for long - but lets face it, how often do you need to use your 4-ways..... not often I would reckon...

Be interested to see how you get on with this one......

[Robster]

You can tell Winter's approaching when everyone starts coming up with cool little jobs like this to while away those dark grim evenings!

I like it...the more mods the better!

[bandi]

yes bob, that's what I was afraid of, that the little flasher would either not deliver of die tryin' . most of the kits and diagrams I found had a separate flasher relay for hazard - must be the reason...

you guys are really lucky to have a developed DIY market, being able to easily find all these tricks to fit on bikes, cars, trucks and homes

@ robster: yeah indeed, with our -20 celsius in unheated garages it's really "extreme tinkering" over winter

whatever the solution I'll let you know how it went. other kit option here: http://www.louis.de/_3012cbdb13a50fd...nr_gr=10034955

[bandi]

Maplin electronics sells a 12v multipole relay...
Maplin cat page for relay N32AW (£3.54)

From catalogue:
Operate time 20ms max.
Release time 20ms max.

isn't a little too fast?... 5 blinks in 2 secs

[Jenna]

the N32aw is way overkill for the current draw you have on a bike ( cars have both more indecators and at higher wattage, normally drawing 100watt per side)... also the multipole is the switch gear and not the hazzard relay it's self.

If you want to stick with the stock relay and do a bridge switch between both left and right circuits thats easy enough, but you must put diode's on each side or you will get a short. The current draw from the indicators can be stepped down by replacing the wire wound gas filled bulbs with white LEDs, most stock relays will happly run a bank of LEDs with no drama and you will find that the LEDs are less prone to vibration damage if the bike is used off-road...

if you want me to hunt down the part numbers for the diodes and LEDs on maplin then just shout.