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Thread: Hi There

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    Nero is offline Junior Member
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    Hi There

    Hello everybody,

    I'm writting from Portugal and i have a 97 RD7A with 80.000 kms and a friend of mine as a RD7 from 94 with 108.000 kms. We simply love our AT's !!
    Recently i've solved the problem of the fuel pump with that simple repair that someone posted here.
    Now i've a question : Did somone around here have problems with the harness that comes from the motor ( alternator ) to the retifier/regulator ? I'm not talking about the retifier/regulator himself, it's were the harness meets in the plug ( 3 yelow wires ). The 2 bikes have the same problem, the wires simply get hot like hell and burst. I know one guy that had to buy all the electrical part ( about 1000 € ) because the wires touched and blow out.

    Thanks for your help and regards from António and Alvaro to all of you AT's owners.

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    Steve C's Avatar
    Steve C is offline 21st Century Schizoid Man
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    Re: Hi There

    No idea Nero, but somebody sensible will be along in a while to talk some sense.

    I just saw it was your first post so I thought I'd say hello
    RD07a, reg in 2001, Black, heated grips, short screen, Scottoiler, Givi top box and panniers, DataTag, full Riky Cross crash bars, Baglux tank cover, Facet pump, mostly 200 miles to reserve and presently a lot happier since being loved up at Chad's hospital for sick ATs!


    !Boris!
    !Boris!!Boris!

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    StumpyFingers is offline Senior Member
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    Re: Hi There

    Hello Nero and welcome to the forum.
    I have not haerd of anyone on here having that problem, but I think it has happened to the NTV / Deville motor.
    They are similar engines to the Africa Twin and Transalp so it is possible.
    YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE




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    Steve T's Avatar
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    Re: Hi There

    I've seen a couple of @'s with heat damage to the cables & connectors that lead from the alternator to the reg/rec (the 3 yellow wires).
    My bestest guess as to the cause in the cases I've seen is corrosion on the plug terminals leading to high resistances & overheating (and in one case a fire ).
    If you can't clean the terminals in the plug, change the plugs on both sides of the wiring loom (I'll look up the UK supplier that I've got them from in the past and post it up later). With new pins and sockets, you'll have no high resistance leading to no heat build up.
    I've always checked these connections out as soon as I've aquired a new bike, and if they're in good condition I cover them in a suitable grease to help prevent corrosin build up.

    Just my ramblings.

    Steve T


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    Nero is offline Junior Member
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    Re: Hi There

    Thanks for your help Steve but i check that plug every 2 months and one time is good in the next could be good or damaged. The terminals are good ( no corrossion ) and we change them and the plug every time one gets melted. Maybe is the terminals that heat up. I've talked about the terminals that you change, hope to hear good news from you soon.

    Once more, thanks for your help.

    Regards and good rides on the AT.

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    GSPD750 is offline Senior Member
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    Re: Hi There

    Good advice by Steve T. Have you checked the alternator? Used ones can be found on German ebay. They rarely fail though.
    Last edited by GSPD750; 22-01-09 at 10:22 PM.

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    Nero is offline Junior Member
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    Re: Hi There

    Both bikes have the same problem and are charging correctely so how can i check if it's an alternator problem. Does someone knows the voltages that came in the plug ?

    Best regards and good rides on yours AT

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    Re: Hi There

    Quote Originally Posted by Nero View Post
    Both bikes have the same problem and are charging correctely so how can i check if it's an alternator problem. Does someone knows the voltages that came in the plug ?

    Best regards and good rides on yours AT
    You can check the resistance between each of the yellow wires on the alternator side of the connector using a multimeter set to ohms X 1 taking 3 readings. All 3 should be 0.1 to 1.0 ohms.
    Also you can check for continuity between each terminal and ground...should be infinite with NO continuity. This info taken from Haynes chapt. 9-30. It's an easy qwik check you can do at the plug or connector.
    Last edited by GSPD750; 22-01-09 at 10:14 PM.

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    Nero is offline Junior Member
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    Re: Hi There

    Thanks.
    This weekend i will do that.

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