AT Regulator Connector

[African Simba]

Hi Everyone,, I am looking for the "Square" electric connector end of an AT regulator, The one that have the 3 yellow wires. (See attached photo)
I am wondering if anyone have an old regulator or know of any other Honda bike model that have the same connector fitting?
My "Project bike" have suffered burned wires with previous owner and all is broken off. I am looking to make a good mend of it now.

The other end from the "Genetor" is fine and doesn't require a replacement.

Cheers..

[Whealie]

Had a similar problem so soldered the lot together.

[African Simba]

Thanks Whealie, I have read this thread already and I followed your procedure by soldering/ heatshrink, etc. I had to cut a bit of the three yellow wires coming out of the regulator and solder 3 wires extension to each end. Now I was hoping that it will be possible to find the end connector that will fit, If not, then it will be solder all the way.
Thanks again for your reply.

[Whealie]

Thanks Whealie, I have read this thread already and I followed your procedure by soldering/ heatshrink, etc. I had to cut a bit of the three yellow wires coming out of the regulator and solder 3 wires extension to each end. Now I was hoping that it will be possible to find the end connector that will fit, If not, then it will be solder all the way.
Thanks again for your reply.

an easier solution for the long-term I agree.

[jik1219]

Hi,
I've had the same problem on 2 different bike. One was a 2005 ZX1200 and also on my RD04. I soldered the wires and eliminated the connector all together on both bikes. repaired the harness on the ZX12 3 times and the problem reoccured so I did the soldering on that bike 1st. Problem went away. It seems that once the connectors begin to lose good contact the amperage goes way up in the circuit and causes the overheat problem at the connector. Soldering the wires and eliminating the connector also eliminates the possibility of the corrosion problem. On My AT there is a second connector just below the original that doesn't seem to suffer the same fate so removal of the rectifier is still possible without any trouble.

[RoyR]

Just use a simple chock block type connection, had problems with mine the wires had corroded and I was having problem with the charging system, just cut off soilded ends and reconnected using the above method.

[African Simba]

Super.. Problem will be resolved this weekend.
Cheers everyone, much appreciated..

[Lord Stig]

I noticed mine is particulary frazzled (with partial melting of the block connector plastic) a while back but decided not to do anything about it. The reason for that was that the regulator is still the original one after eight years and 88,000 miles - I figured if I make the current flow as it should by chopping the bad wiring out, the regulator might pack up! More superstition than sense, but hey.

Now I think I'll deal with that as soon as I get the time (along with cam chain and tensioners and other "I really should do that although it isn't a problem at the moment" kind of jobs. Out of interest, does anyone know the correct rating of the various wires?

[Hagalaz]

Out of interest, does anyone know the correct rating of the various wires?

IIRC the alternator output is 360 watts which would give you around 30 Amps so each phase is around 10 Amps output.
2mm ( 28 strands of 0.30 mm ) cable carry's up to 17.5 Amps so should be man enough for the job to carry the juice from the alternator to the regulator.




I hope

[Lord Stig]

Excellent! Thanks for that...