are 'tubeless type' tyres harder to break the bead than 'tube type'

[bikerfromsark]

Hi all, are 'tubeless type' tyres harder to break the bead than 'tube type' on africa twin rim, (ie. non tubeless rims but with 'safety bead') Tourances in my size (140-80-17") are only avaiable in tubeless type. Will this mean they will be very hard to get off for puntures.

Thanks alot

George

[digitalcaptive]

I have managed this with relatively short tyre irons with no major issues, once deflated I tend to run a spray (using a straw type dispenser) between the tyre and rim of silicone spray and leave it for a couple of minutes, this tends to make easy work of it (My Tyres are tubless Tourances)

[AIRWOLF]

Yes i find 'tubeless' type more difficut than tube type, but not impossible.

[StumpyFingers]

They are only more difficult due the the stronger sidewall and beading.

[meljordan]

DC has it about right if you use plenty of gunk when you first fit them it will help and some lube before you break the seal will help a lot.
And yelling at the tyer allways helps......

[digitalcaptive]

And yelling at the tyer allways helps.....

My preferred type of yelling is profanity, swear words really do seem to have the most effect

[Farmboy]

Tubeless can be a bitch to change especially if like me you inherited the bike with them on, Mine were virtually glued on and took nearly 1 1/2 hours to change both tyres,
as opposed to taking 20 minutes to refit both new tyres and tubes.

Patience and technique are the key whcih is really easy in the garage but not so easy in the Desert.

Best tip is only ever change your tyres with the tools you would carry with you on a trip, that way you can be sure you can do it when required anywhere

[Jacqueslemac]

I spent a good hour wrestling with my RD04's rear tyre this weekend. Eventually I broke the bead, forced it off and threw it to one side before struggling with the new one. After no more than a couple of hours I'd completed a job that my local dealer charges £25 for. I'm thinking of investing in a £150 tyre fitting contraption now. With two bikes it won't take that long to pay for itself.

I rode the bike 40 miles to work today and the rear felt slightly vague.

I'm wondering whether the new tyre's bead has re-seated properly. How can I tell?

On the other hand, it may just be me. The tyre (Metzler Karoo M&S, since you ask) has a slightly different tread to the old tyre (same model, just a year or so old) and the knobbles are, of course, much more defined that my old - almost slick - tyre. Also, it's the first time I've been on the Twin for a few weeks, having been riding my Tiger which is fitted with Tourances.

So, is it the bike, the new tyre, the new tread or the way I've fitted it?

[Austin]

bead alignment....... there should be a thin line of raised rubber on the edge of thetyre, as long as that is the same distance from the wheel rim all the way round when the the tyre is inflated the bead is on evenly. If not deflate the tyre and put some loob on the bead (swarfega works well) and pummel the tyre, roll the wheel round on the floor, or anything to get the bead to move. More loob and reinflate. If still not right and one bit is low, ie the tyre is too far in the wheel, try inflating the tyre to 50psi or more - but watch for the tube popping out between rim and tyre on the bit of bead that will be high though.

In my experience a tyre that isn't seated properly will feel bumpy rather than vague and is very obvious if you spin the wheel on the stand.

good luck

[Treadtrader]

I spent a good hour wrestling with my RD04's rear tyre this weekend. Eventually I broke the bead, forced it off and threw it to one side before struggling with the new one. After no more than a couple of hours I'd completed a job that my local dealer charges £25 for. I'm thining of investing in a £150 tyre fitting contraption now. With two bikes it won't take that long to pay for itself

Hang on, us guys have a living to make, don't start stirring things up, i've got two bikes to run