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Thread: RD07A problem

  1. #11
    GSPD750's Avatar
    GSPD750 is offline Senior Member
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    Re: RD07A problem

    Quote Originally Posted by matijak View Post

    How to surely check regulator/rectifier?
    Thanks a lot!
    No one has suggested yet to check the output voltage from your charging system. Seeing that you asked and that you also mention cracks in the R/R...it might be a good idea.

    Following chart is good.

    Download ElectroSport's Motorcycle Electrical Fault Finding Chart (PDF)

    Firstly...you need a good battery that is charged and has had no evidence of drain or overcharging.

    Basically with a multimeter set to dc volts (engine idling) volt reading accross the battery should be 13.5 (give or take).

    Rev engine up a bit...reading should be no more than 14.8 volts.

    Get back to us with your findings.
    Last edited by GSPD750; 27-10-09 at 08:33 PM.

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    XRV freak is offline Member
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    Re: RD07A problem

    Had same problem. White conector from alternator to RR was fried and main fuse almost blown out.

  4. #13
    matijak is offline Junior Member
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    Re: RD07A problem

    Solve the big mystery! Clogged fuel filter! Stupid ameteur!

    But, the mystery of empty battery stays.

    Yesterday, after replacing filter and checking the fuel pump (it works fine), I started engine (works and sounds normal), and measure 14,6V on battery with 3000-4000rpm running engine. With lights turned on on same rpm is 13,7V... so it seems that electric system is OK. Should we suspect on battery? After all night long charging and staying in room for 24h (after charging) I measure 12,5V on battery out the bike. How to check the batery?

    Thanks a lot!

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    Re: RD07A problem

    Am a bit confused. In your original post you said the bike started running poorly,
    came to a stop, and the engine would not turn over because there was not enough
    power in the battery. If the problem was only a clogged fuel filter, the bike would
    have stopped running like you said. However the battery would have still
    cranked the engine over for a long time. Maybe you have the nightmare of
    diagnostic mechanics, two problems occurring at the same time......Your charging system
    voltages are all good. Am curious about the final outcome.

  6. #15
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    Re: RD07A problem

    Quote Originally Posted by matijak View Post
    Solve the big mystery! Clogged fuel filter! Stupid ameteur!

    But, the mystery of empty battery stays.

    Yesterday, after replacing filter and checking the fuel pump (it works fine), I started engine (works and sounds normal), and measure 14,6V on battery with 3000-4000rpm running engine. With lights turned on on same rpm is 13,7V... so it seems that electric system is OK. Should we suspect on battery? After all night long charging and staying in room for 24h (after charging) I measure 12,5V on battery out the bike. How to check the batery?

    Thanks a lot!
    Good job finding that fuel filter plugged and we now know your R/R is fine. Stand alone battery voltage of 12.5 v seems a bit low after having just been on the charger for 24 hrs. Should be 12.85 v or so.
    Without having a battery load tester and proper battery diagnostic equipment handy...I would suspect the battery. Replace it...if you don't know how long the previous owner had it in there for.

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    Re: RD07A problem

    Quote Originally Posted by africa twin boy View Post
    Am a bit confused. In your original post you said the bike started running poorly,
    came to a stop, and the engine would not turn over because there was not enough
    power in the battery. If the problem was only a clogged fuel filter, the bike would
    have stopped running like you said. However the battery would have still
    cranked the engine over for a long time. Maybe you have the nightmare of
    diagnostic mechanics, two problems occurring at the same time......Your charging system
    voltages are all good. Am curious about the final outcome.
    I believe battery draining was caused by the continuous cranking from not starting due to fuel starvation.
    Those little 14-BS batterys just cannot take any sort of drain before the
    cranking amps are lost. Do that 2 or 3 times and your battery is trash.

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    Re: RD07A problem

    I agree with GSPD750 on the limited cranking time from the battery. It just seemed to me from the original post that he had come to a stop, and there was no battery power at all, indicating a electrical problem. I do agree on changing the battery. Unless the previous owner told me directly he had put in a new battery sometime within a year, I always change the battery when I buy a new bike. Their life is around two years, anything beyond is just pushing your luck.

  9. #18
    matijak is offline Junior Member
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    Re: RD07A problem

    Battery died when I started to crank first time after yhe engine stops. There was no previous cranking, exept one, when I started engine for the first time and go. Before that, I didn't have problems with starting engine. Always starts from the first time, so the battery wasn't tortured.

    Last night I done some serious measuring on battery contacts, when the battery is connected on bike, with running engine. Before measuring the battery shows 12,7V. 5 minutes after measuring experiment, battery shows 12,V. This morning, shows the same - 12,5V.

    I took the piece of paper, pan, start the engine, worm it up, and there is a results of the measuring of power on the battery contacts.

    the engine is running, with the lights turned off

    14,4V na 1000 rpm
    16,2V na 2000 rpm
    16,8V na 3000 rpm
    17V na 4000 rpm

    the engine is running, with the low beam lights turned on

    12,2V na 1000 rpm
    14V na 2000 rpm
    13,7V na 3000 rpm
    14,3V na 4000 rpm

    the engine is running, with the high beam lights turned on

    12,2V na 1000 rpm
    13,7V na 2000 rpm
    13,8V na 3000 rpm
    13,7V na 4000 rpm

    Is this normal?

    Is there someone who is willing to do the measuring on his bike, like I do, to compare the results.

    I notice one more thing. Last night, I rode the bike for 10km. On gas station, I notice a (aprox. 20-30%) difference in cockpit and tripmaster illumination, while engine is running, between parking lights and low beam lights. When I switch from parking lights to low beam, the cockpit and tripmaster lights glows visibly lesser. Also, with low beam turned on, and engine running, there is a visible difference of amount of cockpit light on different rpm. Every time, when I push some throttle (from 1000rpm to 2500-3000rpm) the cockpit lights glows 20-30% less.

    Is this normal? Or is this a sympthome? On my previous RD03, I didn't occure that.

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    Re: RD07A problem

    17V na 4000 rpm !!!!!
    Stop all testing ! Your R/R is toast , and it killed your first battery. It is now working at killing your second battery.......If you look at your first battery you should find it is low on water, and the case is most likely swelled. This is from excessive voltage. The most voltage that should ever be measured at your battery is 14.5 V with the engine running.
    The cockpit lights should not dim in the slightest when you turn on the headlights. As the regulator senses the additional load of the headlights , it simply increases the output to compensate and keep the same voltage. That is its job. ...This is simply another sign it is not working correctly.

  11. #20
    matijak is offline Junior Member
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    Re: RD07A problem

    Thank you very, very much!

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