Engine problems

[scarfacehugo]

It's very difficult to trace a electrical problem by the way you've just described.

What you need to do is to follow the current (using a miltimeter) from the battery through the circuit until you find the point where's no passage.

Example: Test the battery, follow the RED lead and test at the end of it. It should come to a big relay sitting outside the battery box on the left side. and so on , and so on... Untill you find it.

It helps if you have basic electrics knowledge and can read a diagram.

If you cant find it, mate, I'll be more than happy to do it for you for free. All you have to do is bring the bike to me (Ace Cafe) and i'll trace it for you. I can use parts from my bike to find out what's wrong.

[1gear1brake]

Thanks Hugo, that's a very kind offer Hugo. I'll plod along with it for now and see how far I get. I am very lucky in that I have a choice of 2 Twins so that, at least, makes the situation less urgent.

[scarfacehugo]

Thanks Hugo, that's a very kind offer Hugo. I'll plod along with it for now and see how far I get. I am very lucky in that I have a choice of 2 Twins so that, at least, makes the situation less urgent.

Anyway, if you wish to take pictures and send them to me with any doubts or questions, I'll be more than happy to answer them. You've got my email.

[R0vers]

i suspect this is related to the main fuse with the red connector near the battery in particular rather than the ign switch - water getting into the connector block (red) and shorting the wires... causing a meltdown under the back elec wrap - these symptoms seem to be identical to mine (see my post"no electrics help"....)

good luck - hope you find the gremlin soon...

[BobA]

My money is on


1) the master fuse/fuse holder

2) an earthing problem

3) sidestand switch


Remove the connector on top of the solenoid which covers the 30 amp master fuse. These get dirty and corroded and often end up burning out.


Bob

[paulc]

My money is on the side stand switch ,it could be just dirt holding it.
Dont forget it is only another kill switch (normally closed switch)with the stand up ,open when down ......
Good luck Paul

[1gear1brake]

The main fuse is fine. I checked that first along with all the others. The side stand switch is sounding like the favourite at the moment. I am going to bypass it and see what happens (when I've managed to get the bike started again!)

ROvers, I read you post regarding your electrical woes. I suffered the same problem as you with the disolving red plug on top of the solenoid. I have replaced the plug with 4 individually shielded spade connectors and covered them with silicone grease to keep moisture out and it's still looking neat and tidy. Another thread by pxlpig lead me to discovering the corroded wiring to my ignition though (and to my fat-handed attempts at bypassing it - you live and learn as they say). Anyway, I have just received my new ignition barrel from Pattern Parts, also mentioned in pxlpig's thread, and I'll try to spend some time on it at the weekend.

The great thing about having an old bike and a newer one is that when the old one has a problem, I can take steps to stop the same thing happening on the newer one. When my old bike suffered from the disolving red solenoid plug, I checked my other bike and sure enough I discovered the initial stages of the same problem (best to check yours folks, you never know). So I keep an eye on that area and clean it when necessary. Also, now I've discovered corrosion under the ignition barrel, my newer bike will be getting a generous dollop of silicone grease around that area.

Cheers all
Dylan

[1gear1brake]

Yesterday I fitted my new ignition from Pattern Parts. I didn't change the whole barrel, just the wiring part at the bottom so I get to keep my original key. The plug on the end did not fit the socket on my loom. I think that it is possibly for an RD04 not 07A. Anyway, the wire colours were correct so I had no problem connecting it up with alternative connectors. After putting airbox and tank back in place, the bike fired up straight away and ran perfectly happily for a 20 mile test ride. So that may have been the problem all along. I somehow doubt it as it doesn't explain why it would play up in gear but not in neutral. I've left the side-stand switch connected for now but I am going to carry a jumper cable with me so that I can bypass it if the problem comes back. I could bypass it anyway but I'd kind of like the problem to reappear and to know whether the sidestand switch is faulty. Anyway, for now, I have my old faithful bike back. Awesome. Thanks for all the input guys.

[StumpyFingers]

It is good to hear.
It is possible for the ignition wiring to be the fault as when it is turned on the ignition does more than just turn on the power, it is only a simple relay to move power from one set of wires ( Battery ) to all the other powered components.

[RoyR]

If you want to take out side stand switch just join together dark green wire with light green /yellow wire, ther is a pink wire this is for indiction light on dash just leave that one disconected.Neutral switch could also cause a problem both these are tied into ignition circuit via ignition control unit!
1