Replace output shaft... feel like crying.

[futter]

Thanks,

Cheers for the offer on the running engine,.....

Sorry - £350 is what my new engine cost me - my spare isn't for sale, unless I break it as and when I need the parts!

[Lee Halsall]

Or maybe this just happens to all bikes eventually?[/QUOTE]

Most certainly isnt the case in non Japanese bikes,even my agricultural Buell had a properly mounted pulley ( Masive great nut holding the pulley from clattering about and nackering the shaft ) as did all my very old british bikes.
When I first took the cover off to look at my recently aquired AT I was very pissed off to find play.
The lack of gearbox trap door to remove the cluster is also a bit of bad design,so I am looking for a fix without a total strip down.
Has any one repeatedly welded sprockets to the shaft, I wondered how often you could get away with it . I assume that the shaft is low enough carbon to take a weld or it wouldnt wear out so fast?.
I havn't had a good look at the shaft with the sprocket off,maybe someone who has can enlighten me about how much of the shaft has splines,could the centre of another sprocket be bolted to the drive sprocket to use undamaged splines,then maybe a thread up the centre of the shaft to hold it on.
Just thinking ahead for when the inevitable happens.
cheers
Lee

[Zenarchy]

Or maybe this just happens to all bikes eventually?

Most certainly isnt the case in non Japanese bikes,even my agricultural Buell had a properly mounted pulley ( Masive great nut holding the pulley from clattering about and nackering the shaft ) as did all my very old british bikes.

Hmm.. I was wondering if people replacing the shafts could have them replaced with a better shaft with a means of fitting a sproket that one of the other bike manufacturers use (that don't fail). Then instead of buying an africa twin sprocket, you just buy a similarly toothed sprocket for the other bike. Maybe a dumb idea though.

I'm not really sure of the practicalities of that, but considering the time and expense involved in stripping the engine to replace it, if it were possible then maybe there would be better alternatives than replacing it with another of the same (which might eventually fail anyway even if bought new).

When I first took the cover off to look at my recently aquired AT I was very pissed off to find play.
The lack of gearbox trap door to remove the cluster is also a bit of bad design,so I am looking for a fix without a total strip down.
Has any one repeatedly welded sprockets to the shaft, I wondered how often you could get away with it . I assume that the shaft is low enough carbon to take a weld or it wouldnt wear out so fast?.

I think there are reports here and elsewhere of people having done it more than once, having them grinded off before a new one is re-welded when they need replacing. I'm not sure how long you'd get away with doing that though.

There are some threads about attempts to fill the splines too if you do a search, but not sure how effective they've been.

I havn't had a good look at the shaft with the sprocket off,maybe someone who has can enlighten me about how much of the shaft has splines,could the centre of another sprocket be bolted to the drive sprocket to use undamaged splines,then maybe a thread up the centre of the shaft to hold it on.
Just thinking ahead for when the inevitable happens.
cheers
Lee

The splines run up for quite a way. When I first read about this problem, that crossed my mind too, but I seem to remember reading or being told that the forces involved would shear bolts (not completely sure as I don't know enough to say myself).

[pxlpig]

I have to keep riding the bike for the meanwhile as it is my only means of transport, so hoping to get another 3 - 4 months out of it before the shaft gets stripped of it's splines, they are currently about 1 - 1.5mm thick.

I only do low miles at the moment about 50 - 100miles a week in towns and motorways so should be ok...... fingers crossed.

By then i should have a garage and its on with a complete overhaul.... gonna split the cases.... wish me good luck, and whilst i'm at it I may as well strip the whole bike down and and powdercoat the frame and bits, sort out the wiring.... well i might get my electricary wizard mate to help on that one, and any other bits that may need a bit of tlc.

I will get replacement parts for the engine (output shaft) from these folks
zsf-motorrad.de as they are the cheapest I have found and the most comprehensive..... there may be cheaper out there but if i am going to have all the trouble of splitting the cases and getting new gaskets, bearings etc etc then i may as well get a new shaft that way I probably wont need to do it again for quite some time.... hopefully.

I will be documenting this mammoth daunting task with piccies and notes from the first turn of the spanner to the finished unveiling of the revitalised @.

Would there be much interest in this? as I could knock up a quick website with the info on for other @ folks..... or if possible, upload them here, although it would be a gargantuan amount of data... hence the standalone site.

Any help, thoughts, heads up on cheaper parts or tips and tricks on this stripdown and rebuild will be greatly appreciated.

[JoeSnowden]

If you want the correct pulling bolt this place sells them, I thought I was going to have to buy one (but didn't in the end)

Off Road Only Ltd PULLING BOLTS

Joe

[GSPD750]

If you want the correct pulling bolt this place sells them, I thought I was going to have to buy one (but didn't in the end)

Off Road Only Ltd PULLING BOLTS

Joe

That's the baby you want.


00-074
HONDA PULLER 22x1.5

£7.73 inc. vat@17.5%

Price: £6.58 (Excluding: VAT at 17.5%)

[YEN_POWELL]

I had my engine stripped and rebuilt to have the output shaft bearing replaced (same amount of work) for about £530 at my local motorcycle engineers. That was parts and labour and a 60 mile test ride afterwards. It was done at 48,000 miles and it's still running fine at 92,000. The rest of the engine was still like new inside.

If you want the name of the bloke who did the work pm me for details.

[Ysbytymike]

I will be documenting this mammoth daunting task with piccies and notes from the first turn of the spanner to the finished unveiling of the revitalised @.

Would there be much interest in this? as I could knock up a quick website with the info on for other @ folks..... or if possible, upload them here, although it would be a gargantuan amount of data... hence the standalone site.

Any help, thoughts, heads up on cheaper parts or tips and tricks on this stripdown and rebuild will be greatly appreciated.

If you go to page six of the thread (stripping - do and dont) there is a link there to lots of pictures I took when stripping my @T. Afraid no shots of engine strip (output shaft also) as I left it to a professional.
Bought the new shaft on e-bay for £75-00 and the engine strip-down and rebuild cost me £140.

Hope this helps

Mike

[pxlpig]

That's the baby you want.


00-074
HONDA PULLER 22x1.5

£7.73 inc. vat@17.5%

Price: £6.58 (Excluding: VAT at 17.5%)

Nice one thanks

[pxlpig]

If you go to page six of the thread (stripping - do and dont) there is a link there to lots of pictures I took when stripping my @T. Afraid no shots of engine strip (output shaft also) as I left it to a professional.
Bought the new shaft on e-bay for £75-00 and the engine strip-down and rebuild cost me £140.

WOW! Now thats a comprehensive set of pics, nice one this will sure help with the strip down.

Thanks.

What happened about the cracked engine mount?