Replace output shaft... feel like crying.

[pxlpig]

Just popping on a new set of sprockets and chain, checked the output shaft and the splines are down to about 1mm....... had a chat with a garage mate and he says that to replace the output shaft is a complete engine strip and is gonna cost about £1000 (parts and labour) this would include, new gaskets, fluids, output shaft redo camchain etc etc.

As an alternative he has suggested I sell my beloved @ and getting another.

As this was my first bike 9yrs ago and with only 40,000 miles on the clock and loved dearly i really don't want to do this.

Ok for the question that i hope you guys can help on:
A) can i replace the shaft myself?? Be the fisrt time i have done ANY mechanical work of this scale.

B) how much does it cost for a new shaft and where do you get one from??

Hope you folks can cast a bot of sunshine on this gloomy subject.

[BobA]

Bad news matey, I feel for you. Thats the worst AT gremlin there is


There was a complete secondhand gearbox (internals) for an AT on eBay a short while ago.

I don't think it sold, but it's not on there now, so may be on again shortly.

If memory serves me right, it was £70.


If you've got a decent workspace, tools and time, you could do the work your self.

I'm told a full gasket set is about £100 from Wemoto
If it is good and you get that gearbox £70
Fluids and filters £40
plus any sundries

You could do it, or worst case, you could just weld it for now??!!!!!



Good Luck



Bob

[R0vers]

Hi pxlpig,

i suggest you have a chat with Sully on this forum - he has just carried out some work like this i seem to remeber...

it is a big job, but it depends on how capable you are in the workshop...

as a long term bodge, you can weld it on and change it every 10-12k....but this is not to everyones liking....

[pxlpig]

Hi,

Great feedback so far, please keep it coming, I am hopefully moving house soon so i should have a garage....fingers crossed!

Are there any special tools i will need if i was to split the engine and do it myself, I have a full set of sockets, spanners, torque wrench etc and a haynes manual.

If i decide to do this how many peeps would be interested in a fully documented history of the process, pics and wording?

[futter]

I had a poorly gearbox, I bought another engine from a breaker - fitted it in a day and no probs AND I have a spare running engine (albeit with noisy gears)

£350 plus a few bits and bobs - it is an option.

[AlanH]

The only special tool I found I needed to strip the motor was an alternator rotor puller. I think a 22mm thread bolt does the trick but I've got an XS650 gearbox shaft with the right thread on it. It's best done before the engine is out of the frame. in fact, the alternator and clutch are both far easier to do in the frame before you've even taken the chain off. Alternator rotor off first.

[African Simba]

read these posts:

Anyone got a flywheel bolt removal tool?

I split the cases.

[pxlpig]

Thanks,

Cheers for the offer on the running engine,..... but only need the shaft...hopefully, but also the bike is my only mode of transport so getting it back to Kent would be a mission...... but i will have a think about it as £350 for the engine, remove the shaft (practice splitting the cases) is still a lot cheaper than a new shaft.

great thread the "i split the cases", looks ok to do but bet there are loads of gremlins!

I will look into getting a rotar puller tool for the job.

By the sounds of it, it is a case of being patient, methodical, and being more patient,...... bit shocked though at the cost of a replacement shaft!!

[GSPD750]

I would replace the output shaft bearing also once you are in there if you notice any radial play as I described in the thread "I split the cases"..so you know which one.
The rotor removel bolt is 22mm with a thread pitch of 1.5
More here..Tip for engine removal / replacement and other tips
40 k miles is not much. Piston rings might be in order..but if the end gap is good as per the haynes then leave them alone. Cam chains may be ok too. Mostly gaskets and seals/orings. Don't forget to bag and tag with a fresh box of zip lock baggies.

[Zenarchy]

Sorry to hear about your problems with the output shaft. I dread this happening to mine

If i decide to do this how many peeps would be interested in a fully documented history of the process, pics and wording?

This seems like a common problem, so I'm sure lots of people here would be interested in a complete step by step process with lots of photos. I know I would.

That you've never done this sort of stuff before would be a plus for people like me too (neither have I and I find the thought a bit scary so might help to inspire a bit of confidence).

My output shaft is OK at the moment, but as the bike is already quite old, and I can't imagine myself selling it any time soon and the engines (apart from this) seem to go on forever, I sometimes wonder whether it'll be a case of 'when' rather than 'if' it happens.

A lot of people seem to replace the engines when this happens, but a big advantage of doing it yourself (particularly if you use a brand new shaft) would be that you know everything inside the engine is perfect.

I'm not sure how much a new replacement shaft is, but it's probably quite a lot less than the £1000 you've been quoted. As it seems like such a big job, I'm guessing a lot of that £1000 will be labour costs rather than parts.

Kind of off topic, but does anyone know if it's possible to have a replacement shaft manufactured from harder/stronger material, or a slightly different sprocket fitting that's more robust, or are the costs involved in that too expensive?

From what I can gather reading about this over the time I've been here, the steel used in the output shaft isn't as hard as it could be, and it should be the sprockets that are softer and wear out rather than the shaft.

Or maybe this just happens to all bikes eventually?