Just pulled my calipers apart and if you have been riding this winter get em cleaned soon. I promise you will regret it if you don't bother. I find a Dremel type tool useful.![]()
Just pulled my calipers apart and if you have been riding this winter get em cleaned soon. I promise you will regret it if you don't bother. I find a Dremel type tool useful.![]()
Where ever you go...there you are...
I did mine a couple of months ago and they were unbelievably dirty/cruddy. Will definitely do them again soon ready for my new brakelines off KnobblyWobbly
There's been a couple on lately talking about putting NTV calipers on Ats, perhaps the way to go as originals seem to be made of recycled tat!
Had mine done today including new pads allround and 16000 mile serviceAll I need now is some sunshine
or and time to ride it
![]()
2000 RWB @
1978 Honda Britain
199* Yamaha 250 4x4 Timberwolf
2003 Mondeo estate ghia x tdci
2003 Elddis Odyssey Touring caravan
SECONDED!
I did all of mine yesterday, during the brief break in this depressing rain!
Haven't used my bike for over a month, and it has sat outside in all it's dirtiness under the snow. Went to try it the other day and it was locked solid!
Pistons in all the calipers had seized, but luckily, as I've had them apart so may times they're a doddle to do, and I did all three in less than 2 hours just as the rain started again.
Once again, pistons were seized due to corrosion in the recess where the dust seal sits. The rest of each caliper was fine.
I remove all the seals, then scrape out the recess with the cranked end of a suitably sized allen key. As mentioned, the little skinny wire brush wheels which come with Dremels or other hobby drill things are good for doing the job, but just take it gently and make sure you only clean out the recess for the seal.
Cleaan up the caliper with brake cleaner, then lube all the seals and pistons with fresh brake fluid before re-inserting them.
Today's interlude in the rain saw me whacking out the headrace bearings (and god they were in an awful state) and getting halfway again before the heavens opened up again.
Once the headraces are done I need to do the following;
Rear wheel bearings
Rear shock linkage re-grease
Remove uprated clutch springs and put originals back in.
New clutch cable
Oil & Filter
I'm praying for a let-up in this godforsaken weather!
![]()
Last edited by BobA; 25-02-10 at 03:02 PM.
Cheap and reliable won't be fast...
Fast and cheap won't be reliable...
Fast and reliable won't be cheap...
''Remove uprated clutch springs and put originals back in.''
Hi Bob, May I ask why you are taking these out again? I was thinking perhaps a set of these might freshen up my clutch..
TA! Shel
A year or so ago I thought my clutch was knackered, so bought new plates and uprated springs as I was doing the HUMM on my AT.
Fitted new plates and springs, and the clutch was still slipping!!!
I'd been a fool and just ASSUMED without checking, and all my woes were down to a binding (knackered actually) clutch cable.
I quickly fitted a new cable and all was well, although there was significantly more effort required with the left hand because of the uprated springs.
Clutch has gradually got a lot worse, and the Hulk would have problems with the clutch lever effort required in London traffic I swear! I think the stiffer clutch springs have caused faster wear or stress on the standard clutch cable, and this combined with the springs is making it annoyingly hard.
Gonna be putting the standard springs back in and fitting a new cable.
Bob![]()
Cheap and reliable won't be fast...
Fast and cheap won't be reliable...
Fast and reliable won't be cheap...
Edited due to my own stupidity
Thanks Bob
I'll have a look at another cable and get it routed properly this time. The current cable has been rerouted a couple of times already!
Cheers Shel
Bookmarks