Throttle cables...

[WheelieSparks]

My throttle was extremely stiff and sticks open, I've striped it, oiled the cables and sanded/greased the bar.. its now a lot better but still sticks open.. if I remove the throttle return cable it works perfectly and snaps back quickly, yet the return cable doesnt appear to be seized as I can pull it easily!!

Am I doing something wrong in setting up? Or can I run it without the return cable completely?

[Mervinh]

Make sure the twist grip rubber is not too close to the switch body, just pull it back a little

[WheelieSparks]

Make sure the twist grip rubber is not too close to the switch body, just pull it back a little

I've done all that, it was originally catching on the bar end weight.

If I disconect the return cable from the carb then the throttle works perfectly and snaps back quickly.. as soon as I reconnect that return cable it no longer snaps back...

But if I pull the return cable its free and easy to pull so I can't work out why it doesn't like to return!

[Ysbytymike]

I've disconnected the return cable on the XR and it works perfectly.

Also, inside the throttle grip there's a funny shaped white plastic 'thingy' which directs the cables. 'This goes straight in the bin'. Removed from both the xr and the @T and the throttle works perfectly on both machines. These caused more problems that anything.

This is a personal choice to simplify the system to the basic level (simple means less to go wrong) and will probable not be recommended by some on here.

Mike

[WheelieSparks]

I've disconnected the return cable on the XR and it works perfectly.

Also, inside the throttle grip there's a funny shaped white plastic 'thingy' which directs the cables. 'This goes straight in the bin'. Removed from both the xr and the @T and the throttle works perfectly on both machines. These caused more problems that anything.

This is a personal choice to simplify the system to the basic level (simple means less to go wrong) and will probable not be recommended by some on here.

Mike

I think I'll do this.. throttle works 10 times better without that return cable in so will just remove it.. I did see that white guide, figured it best to keep that in but seemed a bit of an akward item in there.. I'll leave that in but will remove the return cable! that solves that... Just need to get it running now, seems to not want to run today for some unknown reason hoping its just old fuel where its been sat for a while

Least I've found the electrical problem and can get the heated grips and 12v socket working

[YEN_POWELL]

I usually remove the white plastic thing and that always results in a smooth throttle action, with that satisfying snappy return. I've done many many thousands of miles like that and have never had problems since removal.

On my DR350 I got rid of the return cable with no problems.

[tramp]

yeh , that white plastic thingy called the cable guide is intended ti "guide" the cable to stop fraing but as yen says dont seem to do much-typical Honda over enginering.

Dont throw the return cable away as you could use as a spare for the other side if long enough,

read somewhere that the twin cables are to balance the twin engine maybe some one cleverer than me could comment.

whatching with interest as the "discarded parts bin is growing by the day"

[Lord Stig]

Me too - white bit junked, both cables in place and no problems in c. 50,000 miles.

[Ysbytymike]

Talking about discarded.. When it came time to put my air box back on after the rebuild. I thought I'd leave the 'brace' that sits under this box 'for stability I presume' off.
It really helps in making the location of all the rubbers easier. Don't know if this will be ok in the long term but bike seems to be working fine now and the process of putting that air box back was a lot easier. The air box seems to be quite stable without it at the moment.

Mike

[WheelieSparks]

It was that white thing in the throttle grip! I've removed it and the throttle works perfectly now