it was a company on eb*y than made up the wheels for me,it was about 9 months ago,it took that long for me to totally restore the @bike and passed mot last week
it was a company on eb*y than made up the wheels for me,it was about 9 months ago,it took that long for me to totally restore the @bike and passed mot last week
re the hub now - all may not be lost - i think you can get the hub machined out to fit the next size up bearing if the housing is damaged - a good engineer should be able to do this.
perhaps they were inferior bearings![]()
Last edited by anton88; 11-08-10 at 10:44 PM. Reason: spelling !
if there was any powder coat or crap forced in with the disc side bearing (so 'the crap' is squashed between the bearing and the seat in the hub), that would be enough to screw things up somewhat - and possibly cause the disc to rub on the caliper bracket.
the disc was on the right way
no powdercoating where the bearing sits but there was on the sprocket carrier and the hub were the rubbers are
not sure about getting it engineered its a mess in there,the same problem might hapen again,would feel safer getting another wheel,any of you guys selling one or do you know where i could get one
cheers
don
Similar thing happened to me afew months ago, bearing collapsed on the way home, so changed all the bearings, easy enough job. Not 30mile later same again. The problem was when the first bearing fooked-up, it sheared/ground away maybe 2mm max off the long tube spacer that holds the center races of the 2 opposing bearings apart. So when i tightened the wheel, the centers compressed/pulled together slightly, effectivley bolloxing the bearing before i'd even taken the bike off the stand. Solution.. shimmed the spacer until it was almost exactly the same as the distance between the opposing bearing shoulders in the hub, if that makes any sense. not had a peep since.
Whealie (Wing Commander, @ Airborne Division)
Two XRV750-M ('91) RD04s on J ('92) plates.
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This may help...I seem to recall them discussing that there are three different size rear bearings bearings on the Twin, I think the text mentions it although the video seems to have gone....
Ep 10: Replacing rear wheel bearings at Garage Night
Pasted the passage for you.
Pete is KiwiPete from here I believe. He may be of some help.A bike like Pete’s carries three bearings - two in the hub and one in the mysterious cush drive unit, which is bolted to the sprocket and meshes with the wheel hub. Depending on your bike, these might all be different sizes, or all the same. So make sure you’ve got the right part numbers when ordering.
Pete’s bike has been to India and back, so it’s picked up a few quirks along the way. At a roadside garage somewhere on the subcontinent is where Pete reckons it picked up a dodgy wheel bearing fitment. “It was definitely not me.” A likely story Pete!
All these bearings are a press or interference fit - they have to be forced into place, so pay attention when Pete explains how to do it without ruining the bearings and thereby defeating the purpose of replacing them.
Last edited by Cabby; 12-08-10 at 11:42 AM.
1992 TA600 Silver/White Italian immigrant, Givi Bars, Rails. Panniers, SW Motech centre stand .. TKC80's........
It's not a mid-life crisis....I dunno what it is......
I think FOZ1969 has it right. If the bearing inner is not tight against the spacer tube, tightening the axle will bugger the bearing. If you want to check, put an undamaged spacer tube in, and see if the bearing inners press against it. If they do, and the bearing housings are not damaged, you should be OK to use the hub. With excessive end load like this, it is most likely that the bearing races/balls will have suffered the damage, not the bearing seat.
If you are stuck, I could measure the length of the spacer tube on my wheel. This should be the same as the distance between the inner faces of the bearing seats in the hub (assuming the bearing race faces are planar, I'm pretty sure they are). You could compare this with yours. If you are still unsure, I could press the bearings out of mine and measure the seat spacing directly. Don't bin the hub until you are sure, it may just need new bearings and a new spacer tube.
Fingers crossed.
Tim
...and even if the hub is damaged, a decent engineer will be able to sort it out although you may need to strip the wheel for them to do it.
In my experience, premature wheelbearing failure is usually because a bearing is not in square or has excessive side-loading. Side-loading can be caused by either the bearing not seating properly (get engineer to clean up the bearing seat so it slides all the way in and is seated fully) or the spacer being worn or damaged.
XL650VY - TKC80's, Mivv Suono "silencer", Arrow Headers, PAIR system removed, 125 mains, Renthal 677 bars, MRA Vario Screen, Scottoiler, Honda Main Stand, Daytona Heated Grips, Sparkbright Charge Monitor
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