Newbie questions r/r, countershaft splines...

[atanassio]

Hello everyone!!! It's been a while since I registered in this forum and as a new AT owner I need some answers to a few queries I have.

I have read a lot of threads but haven't come to a conclusion about which is the best way to keep the countershaft splines in good condition, lube or loctite? One thing I know for sure is I am going to put an oe sprocket on it...

As I have written in the new members section, I previously owned an xtz750. I have an electrex spare r/r ( rr98 )left from it and I would like to ask you if I can modify the adapters to fit my AT and keep it as a spare?

Thank you all in advance!!!

[lootch67]

The best "treatment" for the splines are to keep your chain slack - 7cm play when on the centrestand measured at the front of the rear wheel. The splines will get lubricated due to oil coming off the chain so no need to bother with extra lubrication.

Can't comment on the r/r.

[atanassio]

Good information, thank you very much. One more detail please. 7 cm measured from the swingarm, as I've read somewhere, or the play width itself should be 7 cm?

[Kjell Lindberg]

7cm from underside of the swingarm to the upperside of the chain, when the chain is pressed down.

If you have an RD07 or 07A you have a small tool under the base of the seat for keeping the fueltank upp.

This one is perfect to install between the swingarm and the chain.
use the smaller diameter bars to meassure.

Tool looks like this, nr 17 in the picture:



You can't go wrong with the OEM Honda front sprocket for durability.
But It's really the chain tension that's the causing the problem.
Owners tend to adjust the chain as per a normal streetbike, not taking in the account of the longer suspension movements of the Africa Twin.
I think that Honda recomends 4cm in the handbook, but I fell that that's to tight.

Loctite is something one could try as a last resort if the splines are badly worn.

[Lumiya]

The RR98 is a simple 3 phase in with a positive and negative out, you should be able to adapt it for any bike with a 3 phase generator.

Or you could just sell it on Super Tenere Owners and then buy another for the AT

[atanassio]

That's great Kjell Lindberg, no more guessing or trying to measure the slack itself! The bike is an '94 rd07 and I have that tool under the seat

Kymmy I don't think selling it would be an option. Postage from Greece to the UK is so expensive that would cost me half the price of the part. Maybe I'll try to sell it locally or just adapt it for the AT & see what happens...

[atanassio]

I have another one If you would be so kind as to give me an advise:
The symptoms are erratic idle, the bike feels unwilling to move until 2000 rpm and there is popping and bursting through the exhaust at overun. From 2500 rpm to red line it works quite well unless I try to cruise at low speed with steady throttle. Then it has some hiccups.
My instinct tells me exhaust pipe sealing but would you suggest some thing else? I am going to take the tank out next weekend to check it so I am trying to get prepared for all the possibilities.

[psi]

Does it react to using the choke? If not or very little, then that is probably the culprit.

[atanassio]

It does react strongly. It raises the rpm to over 2000. So I suppose It can't be that. Thank you very much for the suggestion

[atanassio]

I changed the oil and filter today. The good news is after about 2500 km the previous owner did since the last servise plus 1000 km I did since I got the bike, 3500 km total, I took out exactly 2.6L. A sign she doesn't burn oil!

One thing that scared me a little was that the first time I started her up after the oil change, the oil warning light turned off a few seconds later than it usually does. Is that normal?