Oil drain bolt stripped

[Zenarchy]

Not sure whether I´d trade my Stahlbus for a *brass* valve in my aluminum engine.

Cheers

This is probably a silly question, but what would be the problem of using brass? Is it to do with some reaction with the Aluminium?

Another thought occurred to me about those valves I pointed to though - I'm not sure what the clearance would be between the valve and the bash plate, and if you take it off road, you wouldn't want the bash plate bending in and hitting the valve (not sure of the likelyhood of that happening but perhaps that oil drain is recessed like that for a reason).

[Cookie]

This is probably a silly question, but what would be the problem of using brass? Is it to do with some reaction with the Aluminium?

Another thought occurred to me about those valves I pointed to though - I'm not sure what the clearance would be between the valve and the bash plate, and if you take it off road, you wouldn't want the bash plate bending in and hitting the valve (not sure of the likelyhood of that happening but perhaps that oil drain is recessed like that for a reason).

I´d be more concerned how to handle the manual valve release in the tight space down there. The Stahlbus valve works fine even in that tight space; just plug in the hose and let go The bash plate should´t be an issue. If you dent the bash plate deep enough you can even rip of the oil filter ....

I have no idea about chemical reaction of metals; brass just doesn´t sound right to me....

Cheers
Chris

[john_aero]

brass to me would be fine as its used on all oil fittings etc in modern machines and homes.

just had another look today.

the sump is 14mm thick, so there is 7mm of good thread further in, only 1st 7mm of thread were damaged

so will chance fitting the correct sump bolt and see if i can get a bite witht he thread at the rear,
i think 7mm of thread should hold up ok

[Cookie]

brass to me would be fine as its used on all oil fittings etc in modern machines and homes.

just had another look today.

the sump is 14mm thick, so there is 7mm of good thread further in, only 1st 7mm of thread were damaged

so will chance fitting the correct sump bolt and see if i can get a bite witht he thread at the rear,
i think 7mm of thread should hold up ok

You´ll want to re-thread the whole thread first with a thread-cutting tool. Otherwise you´ll damage the good part of the thread as well.
Regards
Chris

[john_aero]

well thats the plan, but means it very little work and no damage to the engine as the original threads still there.

just pitty some on eooked up the 1st few threads with wrong pithc bolt

[john_aero]

all sorted, put in a 16mm long bolt with washer and job done now. going oil it up tomorrow, turn engine over make sure no leaks and all ok then off i go

got all worried for nothing, was loads thread in there, only 1st few were damaged

[Cookie]

Good for you. Pardon my insufficient English, but if you mean a standard washer, it´s not going to be sufficient; you´ll need a copper washer serving as gasket under the head of the bolt, and the bolt needs to have the proper flange to put pressure on the washer all over its surface.

Ain´t no fun to have a oil drain plug come off during a ride and have a pint of hot oil in front of the rear wheel.

Cheers
Chris

[john_aero]

plug i got was a oil sump bolt for a car.

it had a nylon washer with it so the washer and bolt were matched up already and fitted nicely.