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Thread: winter washing for @

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    rossco is offline Member
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    winter washing for @

    Hi Folks,

    As I am new to

    a) motorbiking

    b) owning an Africa Twin

    Could someone give me a few pointers about how and how often to wash the bike as I need to run it throughout the winter. Am getting a scottoiler fitted so that should keep the chain happy. What about wheels, clutch cable etc.

    Any other tips about where to add / remove grease/WD40 would be really helpfull.

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    YEN_POWELL's Avatar
    YEN_POWELL is offline Generalissimo Tea Boy
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    I wash mine once a year whether it needs it or not, unless I'm busy that day.

    On a more serious note, I reckon you should clean and coppaslip the brake pistons and sliding pins twice a year to stop them seizing from road salt. No real dismantling, just pull the caliper into its two halves, clean and coppaslip the pins and pump the piston out a few mm more than it is at the time and do the same to that as well.

    The wheels will fall apart no matter how much you clean them, so start saving now.

    Oh and put extra grease in any replacement wheel bearings before fitting, even if you have to remove and refit the shields. Especially the back wheel bearings which are a weakpoint.
    3 Africa Twins/280,000 miles. If it's happened to one of mine, it's gonna happen to one of yours.....eventually.

    1 Varadero/17,000 miles ridden (of 40,000 miles on the bike), it's all still new to me!

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    iswoolley is offline Senior Member
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    If you use your Africa Twin over the winter (or even at all!) it doesn't matter how often you wash the bike, or with which detergent/cleanser, the following will happen;
    • * The front frame downtube will rust
      * The paint on the engine casings will bubble
      * The exhaust will rust
    and it appears that
    • * The wheels will fall apart
    Although I've not had the last one happen to me yet!

    Iain[/list]

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    icenian is offline skeptical old git
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    I've used Motorex "Protect & Shine" with good results on the Triumph. Wash, allow to dry, and spray any bits that don't need to be grippy (like brakes & discs).

    Be warned, the stuff has a magnetic attraction from brake discs, it'll get onto them even if you're spraying summat about 4 feet away. So be careful and have some white spirit handy to clean the dics when you fail.

    Also be warned that when you start the bike, vast clouds of smoke will come off the exhaust. Once had a neighbour rush round to put out the fire

    This winter think I'll switch to the new Scottoiler protective spray., mostly on account of liking the Scottoiler people (even if they are weegies)
    flat out on utterly inappropriate tackle

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    paultheold is offline Senior Member
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    Oh yes, the rear wheel will rot, from the inside...
    I use Gunk on the lower half of the bike, as it leaves a oily film.
    My garage has a dehumidifier, worth its weight in gold.

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    jvaughan is offline Senior Member
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    Have just taken the AT and the TVR off the road for the winter.

    The TVR gets a good coat of wax, the leather seats "Fed", and the battery plugged in to a conditioner.
    The AT has been washed, degreased, waxed, and all the metal bits covered in a mist of WD40. Although the Chain has a Schott oiler fitted, I have also given it a once over with some spray grease. The Wheels have also had a light misting with WD40.

    As for Preparation, since this is my first BIG bike, I have also turned the fuel off, and run the bike until the carbs are empty (used to do the same with my SpeedBoat). I will probably start the bike, and run it until warm every 2 - 3 weeks (at the same time as running the TVR, just to piss the neighbours off!) I will then probably repeat with a quick once over with WD40 when the bike has coolled down.

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    rossco is offline Member
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    Thanks for all the tips, I will be applying grease/wd40 to all the shiny bits execpt anything that helps me stop

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    Unmutual is offline Member
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    I'd also make sure the bike's oil has been changed before leaving it standing for too long.
    And when you put it back on the road, I'd drain and refill with more fresh if you feel moisture has got in.
    I love my oilchanges you know!
    I keep mine running all year round though.
    I don't ride in the bad weather, but an Optimate trickle charge and starting up every couple of weeks keeps it 100%.
    If you do this though, you'll need to ensure you run the bike long enough for the engine to reach a good operating temperature, otherwise you can be doing more harm than good.

  10. #9
    africatijn Guest
    If you store the bike for a long period, top up the fuel tank, to prevent rust inside.

    Cheers,
    Tijn

  11. #10
    jvaughan is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by africatijn
    If you store the bike for a long period, top up the fuel tank, to prevent rust inside.

    Cheers,
    Tijn
    Good point... forgot about that !

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