Need some help, guys ... Bike cuts out when riding

[TJE]

Hi lads,

I have a really annoying problem, the bike cuts out when driving, typically above 60km/h ...

I then pull the clutch and try to keep the engine alive with a little throttle back and forth, and usually the problem goes away, but returns again shortly after.

The other day, it did it even at low speeds, and I had to limp back the last 30 nerve wrecking km of a drive.

The bike runs really well besides this ...

I'm off to the mechanic tomorrow. Any ideas as to whats causing this? My gut says electric problems ...

I should add that I've checked the R/R and its fine, and my sidestand switch has been nutered.

Thanks!

/Thomas

[spencer54]

Sidestand switch would have been my first guess, so I would get a meter and check your coils and generator/pick up coil.

[Sohoeasy]

Hi Thomas, If the problem is going away by clutching and throttling I'd say it's more likely a fuelling problem than electrical. You could try draining the carbs first just to see if it clears any blockage/sh*t.

I had a major blockage a couple of weeks back which kept making the motor die. The way I actually cured it was purely by chance. Determined to get to the workshop, I just held it in first gear to stop it stalling and after several miles whatever was in there blew through the system and the bike surged back into life.No problems since. I hope it is something as simple as this for you too ?

Otherwise let us know.

[Lord Vader]

making the motor dye.

Oh cool,what colour

[AlanH]

How's the fuel pump?

[BobA]

My first thoughts are the fuel pump (not being able to keep up with demand or having an intermittent fault or connection), or a possibly a bad tank of fuel, or blocked breather to the tank. Also worth checking the air filter.

Fuel pumps are a well documented weakness (although having had 8 Africa Twins, I've never had one fail). You should be able to check the clear fuel filter and see the pump pulsing fuel through it while the engine is idling. The fuel pump ONLY works when the engine is running, as it takes a pulse from the CDI to trigger the contact breakers inside the fuel pump (which is the part of the pump that fails).

Get a length of wood that will reach the fuel pump (and carry it on your rides) to enable you to give it a gentle but sharp whack with a hammer. Next time the bike starts playing up, give the pump a good clout to see if it clears the problem.



Good Luck




Bob

[TJE]

Many thanks everyone ... I went through most of the stuff I could think of, and the mechanic also had a look. The fuelpump is a new Facet, and all the hoses looked ok, so my initial thought was either dirty carbs, allthough they had been cleaned 3-4 months ago, or electrical.

It proved to be the 30 amp main fuse, on the left side of the battery, that was melted. A few days before, I had the red socket there replaced, as it was fried.

I saw somewhere on the forum, that someone removed this lump of molten plastic entirely, and soldered all the wires, and placed a seperate 1 fuse fusebox. I've replaced it 3 times already, and I think the heat here plays a big role. Anyone remember this thread, by the way?

Only testet the bike on a quick spin, but I need to go for a longer ride, to make sure.

I really love this bike, but I'm spending too much time fixing it. A guy here is selling his smoothrunning twin, so I may just make a switch ...

Thanks again! Much appreciated ...

[spencer54]

You need to find out why the fuse is melting is the rectifier outputting too much juice or is it close to a heat source?

[AlanH]

You need to find out why the fuse is melting is the rectifier outputting too much juice or is it close to a heat source?

...or maybe it's just that there isn't a good connection and, due to the resistance, it's generating heat.

[TJE]

You're right, I need to find out why ... I know it's fairly common for the big red socket next to it to melt, but I've never heard of trouble with this fuse. It should be said that the fuses down here look rather flimsy compared to the originals, which could lead to a bad connection, as Alan said.

The rectifier should be good, as I changed it 6 months ago.

For now I'm just keeping a close eye on the fuse and the red socket. Not sure what else to do?

Thanks again!