phone up to ensure they have in stock,
40105 is the model to have, 1 less isnt enough & the model above floods the engine.
cut off the brass wings & don't forget to put the original rubber holder in hot water to give it more elasticity... it's a tight fit & you'll be cursing, & some heat-shrink for covering the wires.
superseeded by this model with some kind of fuel cut valve thingy, twice the price & unnessesary (my opinion)
FACET Solid State Fuel Pump Carb 40171 KTM950 | eBay
Last edited by foz1969; 10-05-12 at 11:52 PM.
”If you don’t have anything nice to say about people, come sit over here by me”
I've been running the same Facet 40105 on my main RD07A since 2005 - it really is a fit & forget upgrade.
Facet Fuel Pump
Last edited by Stormforce8; 10-05-12 at 11:48 PM.
Stormforce8 SmugMug gallery
'Maybe I'm just simple - but can't we all just get along..........'
2002 - BMW R1150GS - Graphitan
2002 - Honda Africa Twin XRV750 RD07A RWB
2000 - Honda Africa Twin XRV750RR RD07A - Red White,
1997 - Honda Africa Twin XRV750 RD07A Fast Black
1996 - Aprilia Moto 6.5 - Starck Orange,
1990 - Honda Africa Twin XRV750 RD04 - HRC
1990 - Cagiva N90 - Lucky Explorer
1989 - Yamaha XT600Z Tenere 3AJ - BYRD,
But I know about the standard AT pump.
How does the pump work:
- There is a pressure switch within the pump which detects that fuel has flowed to the carbs and that triggers the electrical contacts. The moment the contacts touch the pump starts and fuel flows towards the carbs.
- Since the pump runs at constant speed it delivers fuel intermittently at "high" volumes instead of delivering fuel continuously at "low" volumes.
- You can feel that intermittent mode when touching the pump
- The moment the contacts separate an electric arc forms and eats away some of the contacts material
- Because this intermittent mode occurs at rather high frequency you have the corresponding number of electrical arcs and it is only a question of time until your pump fails.
- Theoretically, an AT that runs only on motorways and consumes more fuel than an AT that sneaks around consuming less fuel should have an earlier pump failure
How to fix the pump:
- I always cary a small rasp which I use to clean and smooth the contacts.
The rasp costed me 5 Swiss Franks, the cleaning/smoothing procedure takes 3minutes and works always and under all circumstances.
- If worst comes to worst you can short circuit the pumps contacts. Only problem, the moment you start the ignition the pump starts delivering fuel and since Murphy is always present you will most likely spill some fuel when not riding on immediately.
But hey, you're short circuiting the pumps contacts for a reason, so I guess you'll be riding on the very moment the engine gets its drink.
How to get rid of that problem:
You have to install a diode that acts as an arc eraser or you get yourself a pump that has a different working principle.
Haha dont believe that. You make your own luck, bad or otherwise!
When I grow up ..... yeah right!
1991 RD04 - 17" wheels, no fairing, black, digi speedo "The Sumo" - big fat heavy jap thing see!
2000 Black and Gold with MRA Screen, Motad Venon Exhaust + Custom Stainless Ankle Guard, Bagster Tank Cover, Dash Clock Cover + 12V, Facet Fuel Pump, Givi Crash Bars, Givi Pannier Rack (Modified for Stahlkoffers), Givi Top Box, Stahlkoffer Panniers, Pro. Mod. Seat, CR Footpegs, Michelin Anakee 2 Tyres, Sat Nav., Hel Stainless Brake Hoses, K&N, Headlamp Mesh - oh! yes. Huge Nut attached to Handle Bars
I did the swap today in about 40 mins tops.
I bought one locally and paid more but I needed it instantly.
Thanks to the info on here, it was a doddle.
I heated the rubber up in the microwave, used packing straps and wd40 and the rubber was on in 5 mins.
I used kit car solutions and did a two pin connector for the loom.
Hopefully this week will be without issue.