Bloody electrics...

[Pussyhorse]

Hi guys

My AT is a bit 'used'.

The neutral light contact is worn, so it rarely lights up the neutral light on the clocks. The bike was usually happy to start without the light being lit, although every now and then it would refuse to spin the starter motor until the neutral light was lit.

The problem is the bugger has started doing it all the time now. I have to gently tap for ages on the gearchange lever while it's in netral before it decides to light the bloody bulb. The thing cut out twice today while I was waiting at the front of busy traffic lights in central London. Not a good place for it to happen...

Anyway, is the thing supposed to only start when the netral light is on or is mine just in the huff? Is there any way of bypassing/disabling this because it's going to get me killed?

Cheers guys

[Gilbert]

On the XRV750 there are two ways, either Neutral, or if you dont have the neutral it is sidestand up and clutchlever pulled. I dont know about the XRV650, but i guess it would be something similar so my guess is you got a electrical problem and a neutralproblem.

[YEN_POWELL]

Check out the clutch switch on the clutch lever by unplugging it altogether or bypassing it with a piece of wire depending on if it makes or breaks the circuit to function. The bike should start in gear with the clutch lever in, so even if the bike thought it wasn't in neutral this should still work. The side stand switch should then be checked. The neutral switch is screwed into the crankcase somewhere near the front sprocket I think. Check the wires here, not easy as they are covered in cack.

[banger]

If you want to by pass all the safetys find the 2 wires going to the neutral swith on the crank case find the live one and ground it. you should then be able to start the bike in or out of gear, side stand up or down, clutch in or out. Your neutral light may be on constantly with this done, and you need to be aware also that you can start the bike in gear without pulling the clutch.

[Pussyhorse]

Cheers for the info.

I'll have a play at the weekend.

Thanks

[xrv_jim]

Mine did exactly the same thing when I bought it earlier this year.

I'm 99.9999% certain it will be the neutral switch which is very easy to change - just remove the sprocket cover and it's to the front and above the sprocket, loads of access. It took me about half an hour (including a good old clean up) to change it and less than a tenner for a new switch from my local Honda supplier - Austin's in Malton. The switch is a common fitment on a lot of Honda's.

As YP said, it will be covered in cack. Don't confuse it with the oil pressure switch which is in the same vicinity but bigger I seem to remember. You'll do no harm removing the wrong one but it won't fix the problem!