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Thread: Brake Caliper Problem

  1. #1
    miggy is offline Senior Member
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    Brake Caliper Problem

    Having picked up my new (96) AT last week I spent all this week doing more or less a full strip down excluding the engine and have just come across my first problem.

    I removed the front forks today renewed the fluid with 10 grade instead of 5, put them back in and dropped the yolks by 8mm to sharpen the steering up a touch, stripped and cleaned the calipers, renewed the rubber gaiters/seals, stripped the speedo assembly, re-greased it and then re-assembled the front end.

    The problem is that the right side brake disc is contacting the right side caliper bracket. or to be more specific two of the four allen headed bolts that fix the disc to the wheel are contacting the caliper bracket. It's only very slight contact, you can freely rotate the wheel, but obviously there shouldn't be any contact. The other two bolts are almost contacting the disc.

    It's as though there is a spacer missing but there isn't unless I'm very mistaken. The allen bolts on the left side brake disc are also only about 1.5mm from contacting the caliper bracket on that side. I can't believe that such a small amount of clearance is normal.

    So unless I've mislaid a spacer when stripping down I'll have to find a suitable spacer to enable clearance. I'm pretty sure I've re-assembled everything correctly.

    Any ideas?

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  3. #2
    DaveS's Avatar
    DaveS is offline Ex XRV Site Owner
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  4. #3
    miggy is offline Senior Member
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    Cheers Dave.

    I've actually got the fiches myself however, I've just noticed in a photo in the Haynes manual (page 7.21 bottom left) that there is a gap of about 3mm between the speedo housing and the fork leg. There's no space at all when I insert the wheel axle and tighten it up so I suppose that's the answer?

    I don't tighten the axle clamp before inserting the shaft, the clamp is just gripping the shaft and no more so I'm not forcing the right side fork leg in when I tighten the axle. Maybe there's a slight bend in the right side fork leg which I will have wedge open a bit and then tighten the shaft clamp after tightening the axle.

    This making sense? Anyone else had this?

  5. #4
    africatijn Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by miggy
    Haynes manual (page 7.21 bottom left) that there is a gap of about 3mm between the speedo housing and the fork leg. There's no space at all when I insert the wheel axle and tighten it up so I suppose that's the answer?
    This gap is the "thicker" part of the axle. My guess is that with your bike, this 3mm can be seen on the other side of the fork. IE the fork is somewhat bent inwards. You can check a bent fork tube by loosening the yoke bolts, rotating the inner tube, then see what the outer tube is doing. If it wobbles a bit, the fork tube is bent. Try that first. Else you can indeed loosen the clamp screws, bend the fork a bit outwards, then tighten the clamp screws again.

    Quote Originally Posted by miggy
    Anyone else had this?
    Yes

    Gdluck,
    Tijn

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    miggy is offline Senior Member
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    Thanks, yeah I know it was the thicker part of the axle, I've sorted it now.

    I assume that the right fork was slightly bent so I just flexed it to the outside about 4mm and the tightened the axle clamp and all is ok now.

  7. #6
    africatijn Guest
    Be sure to check the operation of the fork after your "motivation" to move a bit.

    Should't be a problem I guess. Wasn't when I had this.


    Goodluck,
    Tijn

  8. #7
    miggy is offline Senior Member
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    What grade oil have you got in your forks?

  9. #8
    africatijn Guest
    I have 15W poured into it right now... but still have to do the testdrive.. See thread elsewhere.

    Tijn

  10. #9
    miggy is offline Senior Member
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    I put 10W in mine, I'd have thought 15W was a bit too heavy?

  11. #10
    africatijn Guest
    I will let you know...

    Can't wait for the testdrive....

    Tijn

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