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Thread: Removal of wheels

  1. #1
    jvaughan is offline Senior Member
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    Removal of wheels

    Right, I have a problem, and I wonder if anyone can help ?

    Removing the rear wheel was reasonably easy.

    1. Unbolt the nut on the right hand side of the rear wheel
    2. Remove the adjuster (commer looking thing with incriments on the outside edge).
    3. Gently knock the bolt through the wheel and remove the other adjuster.
    4. Push the wheel forward to shorten the chain, this allows the chain to be hitched over the rear sprocket.
    5. Pull wheel away (may have to move the rear brake forward on the slider).
    ... and thats it.

    Fitting.... just as easy, but you have to undo one of the mounting bolts for the rear caliper and swing it out of the way, and refit when the wheel is located.


    Now... The Front wheel.

    So far, I have removed 4x screws from the plastic cover, that allows me access to the bottom of the forks.
    Here, I have 4x Bolts facing forward, and a nut/bolt assembly on the side.
    I also have a speedo connection.

    Ive had a look at the exploded diagrams, but they are not that clear (too much infomation on them)
    Can anyone give me an ordered list of things to do to get the front wheel off?

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    robelst is offline Senior Member
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    You need to loosen those 4 small screws, then unscrew the front-axle and take it out. The wheel will then drop out. You may need to take one of the brake calipers of to get the wheel out completeley (deflating the tyre may work as well, never tried myself). Do not touch any of the fork screws below/

    Also make sure to support the front of the bike otherwise it will tumble forward (the bike's weight is not well balanced on the center-stand). I usually nick the jack of my girl-friend's Golf

    Good luck!

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    gibbo is offline Senior Member
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    remember to remove the speedo cable first. You will need to remove one of the brake calipers. The 4 bolts facing forward only need to be loosened, not removed. "Installation is the reversal of removal" - Not quite. After you have the wheel in place, the axle in and tight, and the caliper back on, take the bike off the stand and while holding the front brake on, compress the forks a few times. This will ensure that they are aligned and have not twisted while the wheel is removed. Then do up the 4 nuts (facing forward) on the axle clamp.

    Just a thought - because of the fork brace under the mud-guard, the forks cannot twist out of alignment while the wheel is removed. So the last step may not be required. It is good practice if you have a dirt bike or high mounted guard though.

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    icenian is offline skeptical old git
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    Re: Removal of wheels

    on a related subject...

    Quote Originally Posted by jvaughan
    Removing the rear wheel was reasonably easy

    [refitting is] just as easy, but you have to undo one of the mounting bolts for the rear caliper and swing it out of the way, and refit when the wheel is located.
    I'd agree with this, though whenever I tighten the nut on the rear wheel spindle it's a pain in the *rse. The chain adjuster/cam/comma shaped thingy always tries to spin round with the nut

    OK so it's not a big problem, I've always managed, but there must be some clever trick? At least, something cleverer than buggering about for 15 minutes getting it wrong and retrying...
    flat out on utterly inappropriate tackle

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    Pussyhorse is offline Senior Member
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    Turn the chain adjuster around so that when you tighten the nut, the direction of rotation would feed in the taller adjuster range. That way it can't spin when you tighten the nut.

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    icenian's Avatar
    icenian is offline skeptical old git
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pussyhorse
    Turn the chain adjuster around so that when you tighten the nut, the direction of rotation would feed in the taller adjuster range. That way it can't spin when you tighten the nut.
    turn it "upside down"?

    why didn't I think of that!?!
    (no answers, please)
    flat out on utterly inappropriate tackle

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    Pussyhorse's Avatar
    Pussyhorse is offline Senior Member
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    It seems so obvious, but I only discovered it after a good ten minutes of swearing at mine the first time I took the rear wheel out.


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    Pussyhorse's Avatar
    Pussyhorse is offline Senior Member
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    Actually, it was probably more like half an hour of solid swearing before the penny dropped. :idea:

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    Muckybill is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pussyhorse
    Turn the chain adjuster around so that when you tighten the nut, the direction of rotation would feed in the taller adjuster range. That way it can't spin when you tighten the nut.
    What a damn good idea. I have the same problem an my XR250.
    I think you should get a prize for tip of the month.

    Bill

  11. #10
    jvaughan is offline Senior Member
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    30 minutes, and the wheel is off !! ... excellent stuff.
    also removed the one brake caliper to get the tyre past.

    I noticed when I took the speedo bit appart, some grit in the grease, and also some mucky water in there too.
    Will give it a good clean, and re-grease.

    New Tyres tomorrow ... :P

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