Replacing chain

[Rolo]

is ther a way of cutting and riveting the drive chain without the proper tools Dont fancy shelling out 60 quid for the tools.

[lootch67]

Do a search on this site. I think someone explained how it's possible to fit an endless chain without too much hassle, in which case you'll be able to remove the existing one in the process.

[Recycler]

Cutting is easy - use an angle grinder.

Soft link pins can be 'domed' using a hammer & punch - BUT - if it goes wrong the link will grind. The proper tool does it textbook.

Basically the choice is yours whether to buy the proper tool or gamble.

Removing a chain that is to be chucked is easy - it's fitting 60 quids worth of new X-ring that's harder.

[DaveS]

I did mine with a tool from eBay for about £35.
Works a treat and easy enough to do.
The instructions were sparse though I had to work it out from here!

[barftone]

Do yourself a favour and take the chance to pull the rear end apart. It will give you a chance to grease up the rear linkages and swinging arm bearings and fit an endless chain which is always better than a pressed rivet/split link etc...you know it makes sense!

[GSPD750]

ssast02 is right. Simply for the peace of mind I would go with the endless chain. Ask me how i know. When i aquired my AT I always knew it had a master link with a clip. I never paid much attention to see that it was staked and riveted properly. Well it let go last year...at about 80 kph. I got lucky.

I was fully expecting to see oil from a smashed crankcase, and when I came to a stop I was relieved...no oil. The front and rear sprocket covers were broken to bits.
The chain flew up and broke one of the heat sink fins off the volt regulator. Still ok. The real damage was at the gear selector shaft which bent aft about 1/2 inch coming out of the l/h crankcase. Luckily the rubber seal that it comes through cushioned most of the shock and spared the crankcase.
I know it could have been alot more catastophic had I replaced one half of the crankca$e. Not to mention all the man hrs. of labour when I could be riding.

I still had to remove the r/h eng cover and pull the clutch off to replace the shifter shaft with a new one. It was a bitch removing the shaft because it was bent. I had to carefully straighten it and pound it out. Hats off to honda...they build a tough crankcase

Installing the endless chain is no big deal. The swingarm need not to come right off but just tilted down on the l/h side...enough to slide the new chain up. A split chain properly staked is probably ok...but for me an endless chain is the only way to go. Your choice in the end

[Drawmer]

Same thing happened to me, riding down from Bangkok, I got my @ 2nd hand, used below 30000km, so everybody thought the chain was still stock endless, which was not.

I swear on endless now, they're tough as hell and last longer.

[Rolo]

Did the job today, angle grinder sorted the old chain. Fitted the new chain and link, domed the link pin heads with a punch while holding a sledge hammer head behind the link . Seems to be a proper job.....................we'll see!!!

[kiroh]

I did mine with a tool from eBay for about £35.
Works a treat and easy enough to do.
The instructions were sparse though I had to work it out from here!

Did the same - it's the best way to go.

Have seen people replacing chains with a file, two hammers and a pointy metal bit. File the rivet off to remove the chain, than use two hammers and pointy bit to flatten the heads of the new rivets.

Good luck!

[samih]

You could also install a split link temporarity and have the correct one riveted in a bike shop with proper tools.

I would also vote for an endless chain. It is a very good idea to grease the link bearings from time to time to prevent them rusting and the whole job of removing the rear suspension components is really pretty easy (easier than it first appears).