I am a stud...

[Lord Stig]

Sorry, that should have been 'I have a stud.....problem'. I noticed one of the four M6 threaded studs that hold the fork axle carrier clamp has a bald patch a few weeks ago. I got by the problem by adding a washer so the nut sits on part of the stud that still has thread, but I was hoping to get some new OE ones (might as well replace the lot) from David Silver. Unfortunately they don't list them as a separate part, and the whole fork lower is £145 + VAT! Before I use high tensile threaded rod to replace the weedy one I was wondering if any of you had had this problem, and if you have any recommendations regarding a supplier of proper M6 studs? Dilbert, you must have an idea...

Thanks in advance t' y'all.

Lord Stig of the Rancid Fart and Fetid Breath (full aristocratic title).

[iswoolley]

I usually destroy the 4 little nuts, never been capable enough to trash the studs themselves. I guess Honda didn't think that the front wheel would be removed quite so often.

[ChrisH]

"I am a Stud..." no doubt with Big Nuts a la Robster..... I put plain nuts on the axle clamp followed by domed ones as lock nuts. Looks better and less likely to over tighten and thus strip anything.... would have thought any studding would do, only if you use high tensile, there is always the possibility you'll strip the thread in the fork.... Hello Helicoil

[wobblemonster]

Nip along to your local nut/bolt supplier and get grub screws. yes grub screws, M6 grub screws are available 50 mm plus in length, They are a slice of slash to fit cos of the allen key ole in the end, also they are high tensile.

[Dilbert]

Nip along to your local nut/bolt supplier and get grub screws. yes grub screws, M6 grub screws are available 50 mm plus in length, They are a slice of slash to fit cos of the allen key ole in the end, also they are high tensile.

Gets my vote, screw 'em in gently (actress, bishop, etc) with a blob of threadlock, holds 'em nice and solid without needing to overtighten.

Try and get zinc passivated ones, the chemical black versions are ok but rust like mad when wet and salty! (actress, bishop, etc)

note to any Americans: you know these as setscrews

don't bother getting mr Honda's studs if you really want a "proper" stud with a plain shank buy a piece of 6mm dia bar and an M6 die.

stainless would stop corrosion of the stud, but may lead to corrosion of the alu fork tube, though wrapping the threads with ptfe tape should stop the electrolytic action.

strength wise stick with grade 8.8, anything higher (10.9/12.9) is not recommended for shock loads, if using stainless would need to be 400 series not 304/316.

to get the old ones out screw two nuts onto the stud and tighten them against each other, put a spanner on the lower one and out she comes, (usual drivel about Plus Gas applies).

[Lord Stig]

"I am a Stud..." no doubt with Big Nuts a la Robster.....

More likely elephantitis due to sitting too long in leaky waterproofs!

Thanks all - that's great! I forgot about grub screws, nice one wobblemonster! Dilbert - thanks for the advice there (great as usual). I'll go for passivated, I know exactly what you mean about the corrosion, and at this time of year that's a big consideration. Iain - I recon you're right about Honda not expecting the wheel to come off so much. I normally lose the thread in the nuts, and I think the problem started because I changed the lot over to shorter nylocs; the taller standard nut covers more thread so probably isn't as prone to this. I seem to have a knack of damaging the flats on standard Honda hex fixings...

Cheers,

Stig