Are stainless steel replacement bolts o.k.???

[mcp24dad]

They say the only dumb question is the one not asked, so....
I just bought an 1984 xl100s and it's in pretty good shape, but,
as my first order of business went to change oil/clean filter screen,
and a couple of the crankcase's original pan head phillips screws are pretty rounded. I'm having some trouble getting them out - any suggestions? Also, I'm thinking of ordering some stainless steel replacements that are allen wrench driven for ease in continued servicing. My concern is I recall reading something about using caution when mixing the metals lest some form of continued corrosion/degridation can
occur. I doubt this would be a problem, but, would hate to damage my
original parts because I was too lazy to just replace with original type phillips pan head screw/bolts. Anybody got any insight and/or advice? Your feed-back is much appreciated.

[Knobblywobbly]

To get the screws out, use a Torx head bit a little larger than the (now round) hole in the pan head screw and hammer it in. This will give you plenty of grip on the screw to get it out.

Stainless replacements will be fine but apply some copper grease to the threads before you fit them. This will stop the corrosion occuring between the aluminium and the stainless steel.

[Kjell Lindberg]

Originally Posted by Knobblywobbly

To get the screws out, use a Torx head bit a little larger than the (now round) hole in the pan head screw and hammer it in. This will give you plenty of grip on the screw to get it out.

Stainless replacements will be fine but apply some copper grease to the threads before you fit them. This will stop the corrosion occuring between the aluminium and the stainless steel.

And, use som coarse grinding paste (Paste used for final grinding of valves in cylinder head) on the Torx.
This will create extra grip between the Torx tool head and the screw.

Copper paste will work, but Lithium paste will work even better on aluminium.

Copper paste work better on Iron/Steel, like exhaust gas manifolds.

Applying a few hard blows on the screw head will help, since the blows will affect the screw threads and help them come lose.

Heat is also good!

If you have a gas welding torch with a small "oulet pipe" you could quickly heat up the screw head, careful though not to heat the aluminium parts to much.

The heat will transfer through the screw threads and assist in loosening the screw.

[largewayround]

ditto

If all the above extraction methods do not work, you could try a easyout bolt extractor, I have a set and used many times for removing sheared bolts and rounded screws heads.

You should be able to get them at Jerrys, or similar hardware stores.

EASYOUTS, EASY-OUTS, EZ OUT, EZY-OUT, Bolt Extractor, Screw Extractor

good luck

[Mervinh]

Easy outs as a last resort if the stud i fairly loose and will wind out if it is seized in be very careful, all the rest of the things i have used apart from the grinding paste which is the new thing i have learnt today, great tip Kjell
also make sure the screwdriver is a good fit on the screws before attempting to undo them if they are in good condition, if you tap them with a punch first (highly recommended) the use a small screwdriver bit into the srerw if the screwdriver will not go into the slot easily
I have used stainless bolts on my bikes for a while now definitely use some form of of anti corrosion,

[allyw71]

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned an impact driver, they are a must have tool when dealing with an engine put together with Philips type screws. Cheap ones are available for less than a tenner and do the job just as well as a dear one would, just don't expect it to last as long with regular use, but for the DIY home mechanic they're perfect.

[mcp24dad]

Thank you all for taking the time to help me with the great tips. Now I can go ahead and order the replacement bolts and will try the suggested solutions when they arrive, I'll post the results when it's done. Be well

[kiriakost]

I got my stainless steel replacement bolts from Germany ( eBAY ) ,
I found the complete set (NX250) , at a great price .


Yes it worth it ... no more rust

Basically the old Honda bolds , are covered with a green ceramic paint, that it does the job , as long the bolts never got unscrewed .
The tools cause scratches , and this protective layer moves away , and rust starts .

Definably the stainless steel bolts , its the best solution .

But ... The impact driver , must be avoided on stainless steel bolts ,
as they do not tolerate impact .

[Zenarchy]

Originally Posted by allyw71

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned an impact driver, they are a must have tool when dealing with an engine put together with Philips type screws. Cheap ones are available for less than a tenner and do the job just as well as a dear one would, just don't expect it to last as long with regular use, but for the DIY home mechanic they're perfect.

I bought one of those from screwfix when I first got my bike to remove some star headed screws on the forks. I'd tried everything up until then apart from drilling them out or using easy outs and nothing seemed to help (though couldn't heat them much as they had plastic underneath), when someone here recommended an impact driver.

Couple of whacks on the driver and they all came free straight away with no damage to the bolts (surprisingly easy considering how firmly they appeared to be stuck when I tried other things).

One of the best £5ers I've spent so far (I think it was about that price including the head bits for it).

Before you try drilling them or using easy outs, an impact driver is well worth a go if you can get in to them with one. If it doesn't work then it's only £5 or so wasted, but if it does then it'll save a lot of hastle.

[Zenarchy]

Originally Posted by kiriakost

But ... The impact driver , must be avoided on stainless steel bolts ,as they do not tolerate impact .

I never knew that. Thanks for the tip - will bear that in mind in the future