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Thread: CHAPTER 2 - LUBRICATION

  1. #11
    squirrelciv Guest
    Personally I'd stick to semi synthetic. You have to bear in mind that the engine is partially cooled by it's oil and if revved hard they can burn up a bit too. If you do choose the mineral oil option, you would do well to change it every 1000 miles or it's going to burn and not protect things very well.
    Only my opinion mind, and all advise must be tempered with the certain knowledge that I'm a worry wart

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  3. #12
    Rubberchicken's Avatar
    Rubberchicken is online now Bloody furriner
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    Indeed. Semi synth 10W40 is the safe option, full synth is overkill given the change intervals in an engine like this. Dunno much about mineral, no experience with that myself but a guy I know swore by the stuff for his old XT500.

    Basically you just have to play with the change intervals a bit, if the oil comes out black and smelly then you've left it in too long...
    Michel
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    Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail me now! -- Elwood

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    I think we have a majority here boys...I'll go for the semi....I love this site it's like the family some unfortunate bugger never had

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    Re: CHAPTER 2 - LUBRICATION

    Greetings form Estonia! I am new to this forum and need a bit of help. Somehow I managed to lose my original oil dipstick during last oil change (I use RR stick with thermometer daily and it doesn't have level marks). If anyone could measure both the higher and lower level distance from the end of the stick, I'd be grateful! Didn't find this information anywhere, so thanks in advance!

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    Re: CHAPTER 2 - LUBRICATION

    Which reminds me, I need to top up the oil!

    Be right back.

    *off to the shed*
    Michel
    --
    '89 NX650 -- R.I.P. -- Gone
    '92 R100GS PD -- Now with PD tank

    Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail me now! -- Elwood

  7. #16
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    Re: CHAPTER 2 - LUBRICATION

    Gotcha



    The high mark is at 8 cm. (I've put a little edge in it with a metal saw. It's more visible in daylight, though.) I haven't made a mark for the low, but it's 2 or 3 mm off the end of the stick if I recall correctly.
    Michel
    --
    '89 NX650 -- R.I.P. -- Gone
    '92 R100GS PD -- Now with PD tank

    Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail me now! -- Elwood

  8. #17
    kaupo is offline Junior Member
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    Re: CHAPTER 2 - LUBRICATION

    Hi!
    I'm adding an oil cooler to my RD08 dommie as an experiment, so I need to have some oil pipes made in order to not to ruin the original. Does anyone happen to know (or even be able to measure by any chance) the thread values on the oil pipe nuts. (The upper one is inside-threaded, and the lower on outside-threaded if I remember correctly. Can't do it myself, I'm parted from my bike til weekend.
    P.S. How do long-time users comment on this suggested oil change interval of 6000km by Valvoline?
    Valvoline Product Recommendation

  9. #18
    yellowpurple Guest

    Re: CHAPTER 2 - LUBRICATION

    Changing the oil every 2000 miles is a drag, but I would rather do that than risk a seizure (either engine or my own!). I would always stick to the manufacurers recommended intervals, the peace of mind is worth it in my opinion. I change my oil every 3000Km with a new (genuine) filter & even then the oil still comes out black! Cleaning the down tube guaze is a good idea every other oil change too (although it always seems clean to me). I use Silkolene 10W40 semi synthetic & would recommend it thoroughly. Seems to need less topping up than other brands I've tried.

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