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Thread: New Plug, Oil + Filter & K&N Air Filter

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    Scott is offline What did I do that for...
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    New Plug, Oil + Filter & K&N Air Filter

    Hey all

    Just placed an order with WEMOTO for this lot:
    New Iridium Plug
    Oil Filter
    K&N Air Filter

    What they didnt have was the 'O' ring washer (this was detailed in another thread on here called Oil Change), gonna ring the local Honda place and see if they have one

    Also, as some of you may know I've just added a new exhaust, the idle is a bit lumpy now, so I had a search on here and found some bits on the idle mixture screw on the carb and the idle speed screw, BUT, I dont know where the idle mixture screw is ...I'll find it in the manual later at home.

    What's the best way of messing with the idle speed then ?

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    Scott is offline What did I do that for...
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    Was re-reading and I think I misunderstood.

    Here is the thread and this is the 'bit':

    Quote Originally Posted by anton88
    Before you get the filter cover off, make sure youve got a new o'ring that seals it when you get it back on - at my first oil change i didnt bother changing it, and had a small weeping leak until i changed the filter again.
    Am I right in thinking the seal is not between the filter and the, err...engine ...but between the filter cover and the engine (block!?)

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    Scott is offline What did I do that for...
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    Aha !

    Found it.

    It's part no. 21 on this isn't it


    Sorry everyone..I'm spamming my own thread... lol



    LOL, I forgot I could have just edited the first post

    Anyway, just ordered that O ring seal for £0.93 from Honda dealer in Swanley (used to be Whitehouse - Kent) ..it'll be there tomorrow.

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    anton88's Avatar
    anton88 is offline Cant stop 'tinkering'
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    Re: New Plug, Oil + Filter & K&N Air Filter

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott
    Hey all

    Just placed an order with WEMOTO for this lot:
    New Iridium Plug
    Oil Filter
    K&N Air Filter

    What they didnt have was the 'O' ring washer (this was detailed in another thread on here called Oil Change), gonna ring the local Honda place and see if they have one

    Also, as some of you may know I've just added a new exhaust, the idle is a bit lumpy now, so I had a search on here and found some bits on the idle mixture screw on the carb and the idle speed screw, BUT, I dont know where the idle mixture screw is ...I'll find it in the manual later at home.

    What's the best way of messing with the idle speed then ?

    Its a fiddly job Scott, but can be done - the idle screw is on the right hand side of the bike (if your sitting on it).

    You might also be able to adjust the pilot screw on the carb (its under the bottom of the carb and you may have a plastic cap on it - this is to stop people fiddling with it for emmissions - you can possibly prize it out if your careful-dont force anything under there).

    You have to fiddle with both until youve got a smooth idle - turn the screws only a bit at a time. The pilot screw is adjusted by turning it in to lean the engine and screw it out to richen it - this only affects the idle rev range. You then adjust the idle screw to raise or lower your tickover.

    Only do this if youve got the patience of a saint - it took me a good hour or so to get it right with test rides in between.

    Good luck.

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    Scott is offline What did I do that for...
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    Is the idle screw and pilot screw th same thing ?

    Is it part no. 5 (enclosed in the square) here:






    By the way, changing the spark plug looks like fun

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    Rubberchicken is offline Bloody furriner
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    Not the same.

    Pilot screw (5) controls the idle mixture, idle screw (6) controls the idle speed. (It's just a stop,)

    Changing the pilot screw is a fiddly job because it's in the middle of the carb pointing straight down.

    Spark plug is a bit of an arse indeed but on the RD02 it can be done with everything on the bike. You need smallish hands and quite a bit of patience though.

    But let me stress again, you're not done after fiddling with the pilot screw for a bit, that's just the idle mixture, you also need to change the midrange and top end mixture...

    I'll throw some old main jets into the package to get you started.
    Michel
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    '89 NX650 -- R.I.P. -- Gone
    '92 R100GS PD -- Now with PD tank

    Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail me now! -- Elwood

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    Scott is offline What did I do that for...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubberchicken
    Not the same.

    Pilot screw (5) controls the idle mixture, idle screw (6) controls the idle speed. (It's just a stop,)
    Oh, OK thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rubberchicken
    But let me stress again, you're not done after fiddling with the pilot screw for a bit, that's just the idle mixture, you also need to change the midrange and top end mixture...

    I'll throw some old main jets into the package to get you started.
    LOL...

    You're loving this aren't you


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    Rubberchicken is offline Bloody furriner
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    Let's just say I've had my share of people yanking my chain about it when I got a new exhaust, I've rummaged around a lot (hence the spare jets) and when you do hit the sweet spot with the jetting it does make quite a difference.

    It's not even that you might gain a horse or 2 with the proper setup, it's just that the bike feels so much sharper and snappier.

    (Besides, it's almost certainly running lean now, which means running hot. That's usually not a good thing. This is an understatement.)
    Michel
    --
    '89 NX650 -- R.I.P. -- Gone
    '92 R100GS PD -- Now with PD tank

    Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail me now! -- Elwood

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    nickygee is offline Junior Member
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    Right, here goes! I'm the guy that always asks the question everyone else wanted to, but was afraid of looking stupid Why does fitting a race can and the consequent 'lean running' cause the overheating?
    There! I've asked it! Berate me if you will, but for gods sake put me out of my misery I've recently put on Supermaxx and they're so open you can see the piston going up and down if you look down the end I've also got a K&N lung which would be giving lots and lots of air.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nickygee
    Right, here goes! I'm the guy that always asks the question everyone else wanted to, but was afraid of looking stupid Why does fitting a race can and the consequent 'lean running' cause the overheating?
    There! I've asked it! Berate me if you will, but for gods sake put me out of my misery I've recently put on Supermaxx and they're so open you can see the piston going up and down if you look down the end I've also got a K&N lung which would be giving lots and lots of air.
    Good mod there mate

    Ive got the supamaxx exhausts on mine plus k & n and cut the snorkel off the top of the airbox.

    Basically, your removing/reducing the exhaust back pressure - more air runs thru the engine - without more fuel to compensate foir this, the motor will indeed run hotter with horrible consequences if you leave it - especially it seems on the dommie motor - you'll either burn out the valve seats and valves or at worst seize the motor.

    What i did to the carb on mine to compensate fior this, was increase the size of the main jet - this lets more fuel in at full throttle openings. Shimmed the needle in the carb to lift it up a bit - this again lets more fuel in, but in the mid range of the throttle opening. Also screwed out the pilot needle to let moire fuel in at the low end of the throttle opening.

    R u still with me good

    You can either get your bike set up on a dyno, or do it yourself if your confident.

    Any more questions just ask.

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