How easy is it to change the top yoke on an NX650?

[Sherwood]

The Dominator that I am doing up has a cracked top yoke around the ignition.



Assuming I can find a used one, how easy is it to swap them?

Cheers.

[Mervinh]

Not difficult really, get it on a stand so the front wheel is in the air (recommended may not be really necessary but just to be on the safe side )

then remove all plastics, around it, unbolt handlebars, (no need to remove cables , wires , etc just move em out of the way, ) unplug ign switch wire, remove instruments and clips holding wires/ cables, undo fork clamp bolts and persuade it upwards and away from the bike ,

If you are lucky the ign switch will have already been removed and will be held with ornery bolts /screws if not and it has the remains of the shearhead bolts (like cones with no way of undoing) then you need to centre punch and drill em out being careful not too drill into the switch casting as you do it
merv

[Sherwood]

Many thanks, I will give it a go once I get the parts.

[Mervinh]

should be a yoke on fleabay i reckon

[switch]

Merv has really sound advise. I'll add to his a word of caution: a bike with that bad of a crown will likely have other problems. It might be wise to undo the entire front end (pull wheel, remove front fork and both triple clams, not only the damaged one). You'll likely need to replace a few parts there. Also inspect the lower triple for any damage. Inspect bearings carefully. Might be wise to check fork seals too.

[Mervinh]

yes good thinking Switch , someone had chisseled the ignition switch off of my SLR, I replaced the forks cos they where pitted and i got an immaculate set for a £100 off ebay, and yoke at the same time, with a new ign switch, but did not look at the head bearings, the next mot i got an advisory on notchy head bearings, os i had too strip it all out again, then i fitted tapers roller bearings, I wish i had done that on the first strip down
Merv

[Sherwood]

Thanks for the advice.

My plan is to fix what is obviously wrong and take it for an MOT.

I will then fix what comes out from that.

Over winter I plan to strip it and repaint it, I will then replace all parts that may be dodgy.

Cheers.

[Sherwood]

I am still trying to get it started.

I have got a spark and I have drained the tank and renewed the fuel but no luck.

I now think that the carb is blocked with old petrol (it hasnt run for 4 years)

I am trying to get the carb off the bike at the inlet manifold but I cannot undo the bottom screw.

Any ideas how I can free it?

Cheers

[Jestair]

What year is it? the earlier ones have a long intake rubber, later ones short.

You may have to move the airbox back,by unbolting it, moves enough to pull the carb out.

If youve got two of the bolts out , what i did was tap the intake round to undo the bolt, that did it for mine,once it moved, came out fine.

although , im no mechanic.

I changed the rubber o ring £2.00 thats about all you can mess up doing it that way.

maybe someone has a better way ? , but the bottom bolt is a slow job, i found it easier with a ground down allen key, quarter turn at a time...!

Check under the intake rubber for cracks, as they are well known for leaking air when older.

When you put it back together , its worth taking the air filter out to get rubber back on airbox side of carb , as theres not much of a lip to

clamp, and it will pop off if its not quite on, when you tighten it all up, as i found out.

Its worth changing the intake bolts to stainless .

[Sherwood]

Thanks for the advice.

I guess it's the older type as it seems a long intake.

I will attack it tomorrow with a shorter Allen key and a hammer!