How to change wheel bearings.

[DaveS]

This is a test article for a new section we might have against each bike forum.

The original posts were from Yen and I've just cut them out, as you will see they aren't complete but are good to demo this method.


As I said last night, my rear wheel bearings were Donald Ducked so I shot to work this morning on the bike but tonight decided to swap my spare rear wheel (borderline tyre though) until I sort the bearings on the proper wheel.

Tonight I got the bike's back wheel in the air by using the side stand (as welded by St Chas of the Blessed Virgin's chastity) and placing a car axle stand under the right hand side of the swing arm.

I swapped the wheels over and set about removing the bearings which if anyone wants to know are the following codes/sizes (XRV750, RD07A, UK 2000 model)

6203
6204
6303

Here is a demo of bearing changing for the deaf, once again, one handed piccy taking.


Use a screwdriver to carefully prise out both seals.

You will need a hooge hammer and a nice flat ended drift like the one shown. Screwdrivers as used by 'professionals' will just cause you grief and take longer.

Use the drift to push the internal metal sleeve to one side so you can put the end on the lip of the opposite bearing. WHACK THE BUGGER SMARTLY. Then use the drift on the opposite side to push the sleeve again and repeat mit der wack. Move around the bearing in a criss cross pattern

If you've been careful and brutal at the same time the opposite bearing and the sleeve will have fallen onto the floor with a satisfying clunk.

The opposite wheel bearing can now be very easily knocked out after turning the wheel over.



The sprocket carrier (which should be lifted out before wacking commences, has it's own bearing. There is also a sleeve inside this bearing. This needs to be reused so tap it out carefully.

This is the sleeve above.

Two of the old bearings.

[kennymact]

top pics and funny and informative too......nice....

[fabienlegall]

If I may add something: put your new wheel bearings into the freezer a day before or at least when you start removing the old ones- it will be easier to put them in and they will take their original size automatically as their temperature is back to normal.

[@lf]

Nice one!

Next "How to" might be how to synchronize carbs on an AT??

[Bill Hamilton]

Ok I've got the spacer and the one bearing out of the hub. How do I remove the sprocket carrier?
Am I not seeing something obvious?

Bunkmuffin

[piguglyshandydrinker]

Ok I've got the spacer and the one bearing out of the hub. How do I remove the sprocket carrier?
Am I not seeing something obvious?

Bunkmuffin

The sprocket carrier just pulls away from the main hub, may be held in by 'stiction' so try a rocking motion as you pull it away.

Phil

[Bill Hamilton]

The sprocket carrier just pulls away from the main hub, may be held in by 'stiction' so try a rocking motion as you pull it away.

Phil

Thanks for the reply. I figured it out and removed all the bearings and seals.

Now to get new and install.
Should I replace the drive rubbers as well? The bike is a 92. They look good but they may have hardened up with age. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Bunky

[ATrider]

I swapped the wheels over and set about removing the bearings which if anyone wants to know are the following codes/sizes (XRV750, RD07A, UK 2000 model)

6203
6204
6303

Just to clarify this:

There are different types of the bearings. 2RS, C3 (C0 = standard, C1/C2 = smaller, C3-C5 = larger) ...
2RS = Double rubber sealed
C3 = Larger internal radial clearances

From ATiC:

RD03
2x 6202-2RS1/C3 [Front]
2x 6203-2RS1/C3 [Rear 'left'] + [Rear 'right']
1x 6204-2RS1/C3 [Rear 'sprocket']

RD04/RD07
3x 6203-2RS1/C3 [2x Front] + [Rear 'right']
1x 6303-2RS1/C3 [Rear 'left']
1x 6204-2RS1/C3 [Rear 'sprocket']

[SILVALP]

i saw a link on the site tother day showin bearing change on video. In it they recc prising the New Bearing seals out to chk if more grease might be needed in them (cos makers are mean with the grease sometimes !).

This "prising out" does deform the seals (and poss damage them if yr not really careful)

My preffered method is to drill a small hole in the seal (the "swarf " normally comes out in nice spiral), then "inject grease through the hole (using syringe filled with grease), clean the area with lighter fluid to degrease & fill the "fill hole" with silicone sealer.

Works a treat & good bearings can be re-packed using this method.

Also - i would never use my spindle as a "drift" to knock out bearings - use proper tool as shown above otherwise you could knacker the spindle thread !

Also - use a piece of wood on the spindle head to protect it if your using a hammer to knock it back in (or better still a mallet !)

Just my Five Penneth !

[XR Mad]

This is a tool I made for removing wheel bearings easily.
The picture is a 20mm bolt cut down which I cut slot in with a disc cutter, 20mm is the inside diameter of the bearing on my gas gas, the bar I had laying about up my shed ( i collect bits of metal) which I cut into a wedge.


To use place the bolt into the bearing in the wheel and lay it on a hard surface then hammer the wedge into the slot to lock it into the bearing then lift the wheel up and hit the bar, this way the bearing comes out straight so no tapping each side a bit at a time risking damaging the hub. it’s easy to make and easy to use.


I know a lot of you already know this but I thought I might enlighten some that don’t.
Here's a video of it in use. excuse my awkwardness but for some reason I was nervous as hell when filming myself