More HID help needed

[peterv]

Hi all

Had my HIDs running on my AT for a few months now and they are bloody brilliant! But now i need more advice.

The H4 HI/LOs get stuck on HI. I asked the vendor, Simon on ebay, (nice chap) and he recommended unscrewing the HID casing and WD40'ing the solenoid and checking the grounding. Great but it didn't work. I suspect something else as it is affecting both headlights. I think it may be that there is not enough current to shift the solenoid but i have no idea how to do check?

Anyone got some wonderful piece of knowledge that will lead me down the path of enlightenment?

Also does anyones conversion only light up the top half of the headlights?

Ta
Peter

[Lumiya]

The solenoid shouldn;t need a lot of current compared to the start-up currrent on HID's is it a twin bulb set up? If so are both HID's stuck on Hi?

If both bulbs then check the switch wiring and/or wiring to/from the ballast, if just a single bulb then could be a faulty winding.

Just out of interest is the HI/LO done via the solenoid moving a shield or by tilting the arc envolope???

Kymmy

[peterv]

yep its a twin bulb set up and yes both appear to be getting stuck on Hi.

The HI/LO done is the solenoid moving a shield type. it is the shield part that doesn't flick back....

I'll go through all the connections and see what i find. It may also explain why some cars have been flashing their lights at me.. (I'm showing dipped... but maybe they're on full?? Oops!)

The only other thing wired in is heated grips.. but i haven't used them in a while?

[Lumiya]

First test would be to put a H4 bulb back in the socket (assuming it wasn't a chop and solder job) and see if the H4 performs correctly, if not then suspect is the wiring from the switchgear to the bulb socket or the switchgear itself.

If all OK with the wiring/switch gear then try to discount what the dealer says about low current so get a jump from a car battery and try the lights again (you don't need to have the engine running) If still no HI/LO then the control unit itself is faulty.

It shouldn't be the bulbs or internal selenoids as one would at least work.

Kymmy

[peterv]

Thanks for that, it sounds like a good plan. I'll try that this weekend. Thanks for the help, its much appreciated. I'll be back in touch shortly.

Peter

[peterv]

Hi again Kymmy.

Right, now i am confused.

I put the old H4s back in and the dip/ beam worked ok, however i thought the bulbs looked really quite dim... not what i remembered them to be?

I wired the bike up to the car and strangely enough, the bulbs didn't change between dip and beam? I can hear a relay flicking from under the fairing. I think the connections were good - i checked them several times.

I have also noticed a loss in power at the higher speeds (well as fast as ATs go!) not sure if that is relevant?

Any thoughts about where i need to look next?

cheers
P

[Lumiya]

Hi again Kymmy.

Right, now i am confused.

I put the old H4s back in and the dip/ beam worked ok, however i thought the bulbs looked really quite dim... not what i remembered them to be?

I wired the bike up to the car and strangely enough, the bulbs didn't change between dip and beam? I can hear a relay flicking from under the fairing. I think the connections were good - i checked them several times.

I have also noticed a loss in power at the higher speeds (well as fast as ATs go!) not sure if that is relevant?

Any thoughts about where i need to look next?

cheers
P

OK, the relay flicking on the car was probably the lights relay that's part of the cars wiring (too much current to pass directly through the switchgear)

So sounds as though the control unit for the HIDs is faulty

As far as the power loss I'd grab a multi meter and check what the regulator output is... Should be somewhere between 14v and 14.8v when the engine is slightly revved (above about 2k)

Kymmy

[peterv]

Thanks Kymmy,

I have fed that back to the guy i bought it from... your help is much appreciated...

i look at the power loss separately...

cheers and have a good weekend



Peter

[BIGROG]

Hi Peter, I personaly would not recommend WD40 on a relay a proper electricial switch cleaner is the way to go, also check all your frame earth connections are clean and tight.
Good luck BIGROG.

[peterv]

OK guys, not getting much joy here. Steve sent a new HID controller and it hasn't made any difference. Here is what i have tried, and know, up to this point in time.

Both HID bulbs exhibit the same issue.

With engine NOT running.
Voltage at regulator is 12.63v
Voltage at battery is 12.63v

I relocated the H4 original bulbs, they switch between hi and lo OK. (although much dimmer than i recall)
I connected the bike battery to the car battery and tried again, no movement between hi/lo.
When i flick the light switch on the bike I can hear a relay 'click'.
WD40 was applied to bulbs and the 3pin headlight connector.
I connected the replacement loom to a different ground and positive to ensure good connection. No difference.

I am now very puzzled as to what the cause may be. Any more thoughts or ideas?



P