Attaching bracket to frame - rivet nut???

[alpslapper]

I'm allowed to post this as it's a technical question and therefore Im not ''wasting time on that poxy bike site again'' when I could be getting the house done, according to the boss

Right - I got an acerbis 22 ltr tank from an xr250/400 and have attached it to my little ttr250. Problem is the bracket that attachs tank to frame at the seat end has nothing to screw into - it's just an empty hole.

I cant get at it from underneath as there's no opening, so Im guessing I need to fit a rivet nut of some kind. The diameter of the hole is 10mm as best as I could measure it.

Ive looked at riveting tools and they cost a bloomin fortune. And Im going to use ONE rivet nut - ONCE !!!

Im going to see if I can get a rivnut that will fill the 10mm hole and that will an m8 screw tomorrow in a garage or some such, but does anyone have a homemade way of getting the rivnut secured or any other solutions.

Cheers.

[stanbloke]

How about popin in to a bike shop or Enginneering firm, they may have a rivet dodad and have it done in 5min .

I usually speak to the mechanics, they usually dont mind doin it in their lunchbreak for GBP.

Or ..if your really cheap one of those plasterboard bolt things ..you know the one you push through and they flick open.

[alpslapper]

Or ..if your really cheap one of those plasterboard bolt things ..you know the one you push through and they flick open.

See great minds think alike - toggles - and I have loads of them after all the plasterboaarding Ive just done Wan't sure if it would be secure enough for the tank. Then again, I doubt the tank will move anywhere when the seat is on and its got 22 litres in it??? Should be secure enough?? Or would I somehow be straining the bolts at the front if it wasnt securely fastened under the seat?? I cant see how, but then I know less about mechanical stuff than Vader- and that's hard!!!!

[Traveller]

Just need a bolt or set screw (bolt threaded to the head) The thread fits the riv nut. A flat bar or tube with a flattened end. Drill a hole in the flattened end so the bolt passes through. Two spanners to fit nut and bolt.
First run the nut down the bolt thread then put bolt through hole in the end of the flat bar Then screw riv nut on to end of bolt.
Put the blind end of the rivnut in the hole in the frame and use the spanners to hold the bolt head while you turn the nut clockwise from above thus compressing the rivnut. The flat bar helps hold the setup square and prevents the rotation of the nut chewing up the end of the rivnut (A second pair of hands helps).

I wonder if these words make sense, I use this method all the time, it is much harder to describe than do the job!!!

Took a couple of photos of the kit I use. See below, the riv nut is the tubular part on the right of the picture. As you turn the hexagonal nut the rivnut bulges out just like a pop rivet they are very secure.

Another point: Use a good quality high tensile bolt, not one made of cheese, it has to work hard.

[alpslapper]

Traveler - brillant mate.

Cheers.

[AIRWOLF]

Traveller's dodge with the nutsert is spot on.

Other option, as Stan say's plaster board fixing's (the expanding rubber one's). The toggle ones, . . . . when you remove the bolt, the toggle may drop into frame and rattle. , , , , that would be annoying.!!!

[Snaphappy]

I cant find anything in English but
Fischer are the dowel and fixtures manufacturer here
I have used these in my van for holding up racking and shelves

they fit very tight and the bolt is easely removed if you need access

[davsato]

for rivnuts up to 5mm- 3/16 i use my rivet pliers to set them. take the head off the rivet pliers, cut the hex off a long bolt, screw it into the rivnut and squeeze it with the pliers.
i have a fancy industry standard set of rivet pliers though, i dont think the average diy ones would cope.
travellers tool is great, does the same job but is nice and simple, and would work with bigger threads too