Chain tool confusion...

[fridge]

Bought this chain tool, which I understand is a copy of the DID tool but a fraction of the price, but it didn't come with any instructions. I'm probably being a bit dim but can anyone enlighten me on the correct usage.

Three major parts, the pin slots into the end of the threaded press, the body splits to go around the chain

What I'm not sure of is which end I should be squishing the soft link ends with? Pointy end below, about the same size as the soft end or the dished end above which has a small central pip in a shallow hole about the size of the soft end.

Any tips greatly appreciated.

Cheers
David

[markh]

I'd guess the dished end - it's a mirror image of what you want the riveted end to look like when you're done. The pointy end is for pushing out the old pins (splitting the chain), but not until you've ground the riveted end off!

MarkH

[davsato]

exactly right.
these tools are very good but you can save a lot of stress on the pin if you shave the rivet head off first. make sure the rivet style is right for your chain too, most chains have a soft link with a dimple in the end that gets spread out by this tool, but some chains use a four sided press that this tool would be no good for. easy to check, your new chain will have a hole in the end of the soft link rivets.

[fridge]

Thanks chaps, you have confirmed what I was thinking.

The joining link does indeed have dimples in the ends of the protuding pins, I've given them a good squish, should the squishing be obvious? It doesn't look like they've changed shape much.

[Boris]

Yes it will. Often the chain manufacturer will give measurements for the thickness (diameter) of the deformed pin. You will really have to heave on the spanners to get the pins to deform.

Check with the manual for the correct figure as too much deformation can result in cracks in the pin or a tight spot in the chain. Too little and the whole thing could come apart.

[davsato]

it might not look like much, but if this is an exact copy of the DID tool, like the one from Motrax, then it will have a positive stop at the correct "dimplage" (we can have loads of fun inventing words) all you need do is press on the plate, line everything up properly and do it up. there is not much resistance and then a definite stop where you cant do it up any more. jobs done.

there may be a drawing giving the correct head size and shape on the chain makers website and you can even buy little 'go/no go' guages but to be honest if your happy with it, dont worry about it.

[tedmagnum]

You should ALWAYS grind or file off the peaning before trying to remove the pin..

you will just break or bend the pin if you dont and probably give yourself a hernia

[fridge]

Thanks all, I've given it a good mashing but I think I'll drop into my friendly local bike shop just to be safe.

Cheers