£2 Lidl Battery/Alternator LED tester

[Zenarchy]

Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated. I don't think I'll bother with a relay for this then (though might still fit one for the grips when I get the tank off - the oxford ones I have say they don't need them as it turns them off automatically once the voltage drops below a certain level but I'd rather they just turn off when I turn the ignition off and I'd like to have a relay in there somewhere so I can fit a second power socket that's switched into the cockpit once I finally figure out where to put it).

I don't have a trip meter on the RD04 but I'll have poke around and see if I can find a live and earth when the ignition is on from somewhere else. I'm a bit of a numpty where electrics are concerned but hopefully I'll find somewhere (I've got a multi-meter so I'm guessing if I measure the voltage across the battery, then at other places when the ignition and everything else switched on it should just be a case of finding a wire that matches the voltage on the battery shouldn't it?).

The wires on the fan I seem to remember looking quite handy (plus that's almost never running anyway) so might give those a try first.

[stageonesimmo]

The backs of the gauges are always a good place to start for a switched positive and are in the right location to keep the wires short as well - bit of insulating tape and it'll look 'Factory' in no time!

I'd recommend using a switched relay for the grips - I did it due to the amount of reports of failures in the controlers - if it decides to kill itself in 'on' mode and the ignition is off, dead battery - wire it up so if the ignition is off, the grips are off, no problems. Prolly a double safety, but its how I wire most stuff anyway. Plus like you say, you can then use the output of the relay to power other stuff like a lighter socket - just make sure that the fuse you use between the battery and the relay can handle the current you'll be drawing - i.e. dont expect a 5 amp fuse to power the grips and a heated willy-warmer plugged into the lighter socket...........

I love electrickery me...............

[Zenarchy]

Good point about the grips. I'll definitely give that a go. I have a couple of relays I bought ages ago laying around so will give one a try. I've been wanting a second switched socket at the front of the bike for a while too so will be handy to have it there for that.

On the instructions for the little battery monitor thing they say not to change the wires as it may effect the reading or something (can't remember exactly as I just skimmed it but will have another look before I fit it). The wires are quite slim and not too long though so I should be able to bundle them up if I need to and keep them hidden.

I love electrickery me...............

Man, you shouldn't have said that - now I know who to go running to shouting 'HELLLP' when it all goes wrong (hopefully I'll figure it out though).

[Zenarchy]

i.e. dont expect a 5 amp fuse to power the grips and a heated willy-warmer plugged into the lighter socket...........

hahah.. I must have missed that comment when I first read it. On my old bike without the fairings, a heated willy-warmer wouldn't have been such a bad idea at times!

[stageonesimmo]

Heated willy warmers are NEVER a bad idea!

As for the wires - the length of the wires is taken into account by the electronics in the controller (resistance of the wires is checked at build to ensure the controller is getting the right info about how hot the grips are which is done by measuring the resistance, which changes with heat), so the wires need to stay the length they came unfortunately.

On mine the 'extra' is bundled up and cable-tied inside the handguard (a'la BMW) out of sight - looks horrid when you notice it, but there's no other way around it and its only an issue on the lefthand side as for some daft reason both grips come with the same length of cable, even though its blatantly obvious that on a bike the controller is going to be off to one side. Daft, but hey, I'm just happy to have warm hands as I hate riding in thick gloves.........

[Zenarchy]

Heated willy warmers are NEVER a bad idea!

I know, knob-freeze is the worst, particularly after a long winter journey in the rain on fast roads. Don't seem to get it on the africa twin, but on my old bike there were times when I got home and looked down and thought I'd started turning into a woman

Ah yeah.. I realise I can't change the wires on the grips from the controller. It was the little battery tester thing I was talking about. I only quickly skimmed the instructions but I think it said on there not to change the wires too (possibly for a similar reason that it'll give an incorrect reading or something - though how much this would be a factor I'm not sure). I'll see if I can fit it in without cutting them and hide the wires tidily first but if not might just give it a go anyway (only risking a couple of quid in that case so not the end of the world if it goes wrong).

I've still got to work out where to tie up the grip wires as they've just been sitting ther while I wait for the glue to dry (after finally giving up with alternatives and using the superglue supplied) and for me to find time when it's light to get the tank off and wire things up properly (today hopefully if I can make time thisafternoon).

[stageonesimmo]

Ahh, right - the charge monitor wires.... Cant see why as its only sensing voltage and its not going to be sensitive enough I reckon - besides, how do they know how you intend to connect it - crimps and solder-on can have a bearing on resistance so unless they factor exactly how its connected, I can see how they can say dont cut the wires. I'm not the best sparkie about though and there maybe someone infinately more qualified than me along soon......

As for the grip wires before the BMW guards went on the excess cable was just cable-tied to the 'down'sweep' of the bars on mine, again it looked naff but there's no other way around it........

[Zenarchy]

Yeah, I couldn't see that it'd make much difference myself cutting those monitor wires. They do mention to replace the whole unit if there's any problem with the wires and not to change the wires in the same breath so perhaps it's just so they sell more of them or to cover themselves against anyone using the wrong guage wire or doing something silly with them.

They have crocodile clips on the ends to connect to the battery so my guess would be that removing those (which I'll need to do) will have more of an effect. I'll give it a try with a multi-meter and see if there's a difference once I get them wired in.

I'm out there at the moment and have managed to get the tank off without skinning my knuckles too badly (makes a change - getting the fuel lines off is a pain). While I'm busy with this I'm trying to sort out why my fuel lights aren't coming on too so just popped back into the computer for a smoke and to check that I've got the sensors connected up the correct way around and didn' make a mistake when I first put the tank on. I'm not sure if the sensors are gone or if they're wired up back to front or maybe coroded a bit (been cleaning them up a bit so hopefully when I get them plugged in they'll come on now - I've emptied as much of the tank as I can so they should come on permanently I think).

[chalky4]

If your son is having problems with his electrics, you might find a proper multimeter more useful. You can usually pick up a digital multimeter for not much more from ebay or in argos and similar places and they'd probably be a bit better as they'll give a more accurate reading and also show ohms and amps which might be helpful diagnosing problems.

These are just a strip of leds that light up between different voltage ranges so aren't particularly accurate (though that's handy for mounting to the bike so you can see at a glance what's happening).

I have a multi meter but its the needle type so pretty hard to see movement when checking if the battery is charging, wasn't sure so bought him a new battery and all seems fine, may have to invest in digital one though at some point.

[BobA]

I have one of those oil filter wrenches that they are showing for £1.95, and it's the BEST one I've ever had. Mine is made by Sykes Pickavant, but it looks exactly the same, and is perfect for an AT, where you can't get a CUP type wrench on the end.



Bob