Re: Removing a stuck bolt.
These corrode into the back of the engine. They really need taking out and greasing every six months to guarantee they won't weld themselves in.
Lots of penetrating oil and heat are required. Feed it penetrating oil over the course of a few days and then give it a go. You'll need an old nut to thread onto the spindle and an old socket to go over it and hit that. Remove the back wheel and shock and go in through the back to get heat on the right bit. Heat up the back of the engine casing where the spindle goes through. Don't hit directly on the spindle otherwise the end will mushroom and it will never come out. Keep bashing the old socket and then pausing for a go at trying to turn the spindle with a long knuckle bar. If nothing happens, try heating again and repeating. Hopefully it will come loose. If not, you're in for some trouble.
I've heard of all sorts of drastic stuff such as laying the bike on its side and using a sledgehammer or cutting the swingarm. If all else has failed, there was a suggestion I read on crm250.com to drill into the rear of the crankcases at the join as vertically as possible down to the seized spindle with increasing drill sizes and then fill the hole with penetrating oil so it soaks in from the middle too.
Ultimately it's one of those jobs that inspires you never to neglect suspension and spindle greasing ever again.
Last edited by AlanH; 22-04-09 at 03:47 PM.
XL650VY - TKC80's, Mivv Suono "silencer", Arrow Headers, PAIR system removed, 125 mains, Renthal 677 bars, MRA Vario Screen, Scottoiler, Honda Main Stand, Daytona Heated Grips, Sparkbright Charge Monitor
Bookmarks