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Any electrical boffins want to look at this diagram and expain it to me !

6.6K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  StumpyFingers  
#1 ·
I'm trying to fit heated grips, GPS, socket etc through a relay/distribution block system and outlined on this website..

.: Distribution Block / Powered Relay | Canyon Chasers Motorcycle Sport Touring :.

I bought all the parts he described to the T. (links at bottom of page)..

His instruction say that you need a postive side and a negative side of the distribution block (makes sense) but what confuses me is, the top and bottom of that block are connected.

SOOOO, if you use the jumpers, the whole block is all connected. Not seperate as instructed.

On all distribution blocks, the screws connect a circuit (eg top left screw is connected to bottom left screw).

Image




So, is this diagram correct.. Is the top positive circuit seperate from the bottom negative circuit. I cant see how it can be using the parts described.

If you lay a jumper strip accross the screws, the whole block will be connected... ????


Image
 
#2 · (Edited)
the distribution block all the reds are joined all the blacks are joined but not to each other like a house light fitting not like the block connectors you get from auto shops what your discribing is a block conector not a ditribution block top left should join to top right and bottem left should join to bottem right
or am i missing your point?
 
#3 · (Edited)
I have never used a distribution block method, But I had a look at the website you posted with instructions and found this ..

Take your distribution block (Dual Pair Block), the part with all the little screws in the top of it, and the jumper, the metal plate. The jumper will connect half of the poles together by fastening it underneath half of the screws on the distribution block, this is so half of your block will be positive and the other half, with the help of the other half of the jumper, will be negative. You may have to cut the jumper in half or purchase two smaller jumpers.

So you need a *jumper plate* listed at bottom of the website as parts needed.

If done in this way , the wiring diagram is correct..


This is the important bit ... distribution block is a ( Dual Pair Block)

Use a multimeter to check continuity.. i.e before connecting all up to the battery..

hope this helps
 
#4 ·
That circuit diagram will NOT work as you intend with the connector block that you have bought.

Can you leave this until tomorrow? It's just I'm not at my best right now (stinking cold, aka man flu :) ), but I'll get on to this tomorrow.

Simple explanations, no big words, and a nice neat diagram for you to follow.

Okay?



 
#6 ·
That circuit diagram will NOT work as you intend with the connector block that you have bought.

Can you leave this until tomorrow? It's just I'm not at my best right now (stinking cold, aka man flu :) ), but I'll get on to this tomorrow.

Simple explanations, no big words, and a nice neat diagram for you to follow.

Okay?
That would be lovely :)
 
#5 · (Edited)
I have the jumper...

The part I bought is the part he said he bought.. (same brand, points etc etc).

Just with the one I have, the whole block will be powered if I use the jumpers.

It's as if that distribution block should be horizontaly split/seperated ????

Put simply !! Should the reds be connected to the blacks on the block at all (apart from the primary connection to the relay)??? I thought not !
 
#9 ·
I don´t understand the diagram above, but this is what I used to make a "power box" to run all my bits & pieces:



Works a treat :thumbup:
Looks good mate !

Again from your website ..

Lastly, there are a couple versions of the distribution blocks, depending on where your happen to find yours. As a result, there have been quite a few people who are confused by our diagram. So we took a photo of the other/more-common style of distribution block we see. Hopefully this helps clear things up. Of course, click on the image for a larger graphic.



You are correct that if both sides of your distribution block are joined , then use the alt. method..

As the negative and positive should not be joined, as you figured out .


I have used a wiring diagram like Knobblywobbly ..

but your dist block could be wired to work the same way


hope this helps..
Well, I understand the theory but was really confused as the parts he says to buy, dont match up with his diagram !!

I thought I was missing something.

I will use the alt method on that website.. :thumbup:
 
#8 ·
Again from your website ..

Lastly, there are a couple versions of the distribution blocks, depending on where your happen to find yours. As a result, there have been quite a few people who are confused by our diagram. So we took a photo of the other/more-common style of distribution block we see. Hopefully this helps clear things up. Of course, click on the image for a larger graphic.

Image


You are correct that if both sides of your distribution block are joined , then use the alt. method..

As the negative and positive should not be joined, as you figured out .


I have used a wiring diagram like Knobblywobbly ..

but your dist block could be wired to work the same way


hope this helps..
 
#12 ·
No, I'm not subscribed.

I'm old fashioned like that... Forums should be free !

Anyway, my opionions aside, im happy to contribute to this site in other ways. I'm a qualified Motorcycle mechanic ( Even if my electric skills arn't apparent lol), and I work in the trade in one way or another. Sales & Repair.

Also happy to contribute any travel advice. I've ridden extensivly over South America & Europe.

Thanks for all the replies and for sorting out my confusion over that guide. :thumbup:
 
#13 ·
if hes using regular chocolate blocks, i reckon hes drawn his diagram wrong, thats all. instead of having two strips of 6x1 screws, which wont work, he should have two halves of 3x2 screws if you get what i mean? so if each half is wired to pos and neg, that leaves 5 each for accessories.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Right... Fitted this today under the seat and its's working great.

I can't belive I didnt do this earlier..

I used the rear light power supply as the relay activator as it was running right next to my battery box. Only downside is that the lights have to be switched on for it to work but thats never going to be an issue as they're never turned off.

If anyone wants a pic, let me know !! I've got my new heated grips and GPS hooked up at the moment and no issues whatsoever !

Image
 
#22 ·
I have just wired in my new Fusebox in a similar fashion.
One fuse feeds direct off the block connector for the HID headlight that splits the feed to the relay which powers the other fuses, one for the grips and one for the Autocom and Satnav.