Last lot of red LED's I got from eBay china was some 5mm clear flat top red.. Ideal for making rear lights as you can put them on a board, and then use a colored resin to fil in the sides flush to the top of the LED. Looks really professional
Last lot of red LED's I got from eBay china was some 5mm clear flat top red.. Ideal for making rear lights as you can put them on a board, and then use a colored resin to fil in the sides flush to the top of the LED. Looks really professional
agree, and easy to wire up, just make up a pair of boards that fit snugly behind the red lens on the box (if its the same as mine) and put a load of LEDs on them. 5 or six per side would be plenty, they are bas***d bright, or go for the total overkill approach.
doesnt really matter, LEDs use hardly any juice. i forget now (been 15yrs since college) if you wire them in series or parallel, but there are bigger brains than mine in the forum that can answer that.
as has been said previously the givi contact plate between the box and rack is very neat and stylish but is a bit pants. i would have a go at making my own, in fact i cant see anything wrong with having a lead trailing out of a grommet in the box plugging into a flush mounted socket on the back of the bike, wired into the brake circuit.
hmmm, youve made me want to do mine now, im going to trawl through the maplins catalogue...........
I got my LEDs from this crowd in China -
eBay Store - Sure Electronics: LEDs, Tools, Components
Delivery was not too long and the prices are very keen - much better than Maplin.
Like I said earlier with my series / parallel combination circuit I think the total current draw is around 80 mA as compared to the original 2 Amps.
Last edited by Lutin; 24-11-09 at 05:11 PM.
Brrrmm - '04 XL650V Transalp in Silver
It's not a case of whether we can fix it or not - it's more a case of how fixed would you like it?
Einstein - Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.
you can have a flashing light on your bicycle, but not as its only light. so as long as you have a solid red tail light you can also fit a flashing one. (written on the packaging of my nippers new bike lights).
cheers for the heads up LUTIN, i'll give them a look see. so can you wire LEDs in series or parallel, or does it make any difference? i was thinking to wire up a bunch in parallel for each "pod" (my box has two lenses, either side of the lock/handle)and then wire each side together in parallel to join a single twin core lead, would that work?
Last edited by davsato; 24-11-09 at 05:14 PM.
I thought you would have "heard" of veroboard. Re the downlighters, decking and other ornamental garden lights come in different colours.
Re the inductance link. How about a switched mode power supply? Twelve volt to 24 volt but take a feed off from before the point the output is smoothed? That would give a stable output through the coils to be rectified via Kymmys bridge rectifier and maybe a voltage regulator? Just interesting.
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Switched mode PSU's tend to run in the hundreds of kHz if not MHz.
Still thinking.........
Brrrmm - '04 XL650V Transalp in Silver
It's not a case of whether we can fix it or not - it's more a case of how fixed would you like it?
Einstein - Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.
Whoever comes up with a working solution can you make me one as well
Trying to keep up with you all is too hard for a thickie like me
I'm good wiv 'ammers though![]()
Hiya. Can't believe you managed 3 pages without me getting a wiff of this!
Firstly, the law on flashing lights on bicycles has been rescinded, you can now legally run them. Also, as far as I'm aware, motorcycles have an exception to the "no flashing rear lights" rule, though I'm not 100% sure of this.
Inductance loops: More trouble than it's worth IMO. Unless you have iron:iron (or any ferrous metal) contact then it's going to be extraordinarily inefficient. Not to mention the problems with the changing voltage- LED's are very sensitive to a small change in voltage, so IMO really wouldn't be a bad idea. 555 timers can be used to give a roughly sinusoidal output, though, might be a plan?
LED's: Make sure you have some provision for heatsinking if each LED draws more than about 50ma.
White LED's with a red lens are a big mistake, use red LED's.
Wasn't sure if they had rescinded it on bikes, but it's definately in place concerning ALL motor vehicles
Yep, but a flat wide loop shouldn't be too inefficient especially if you were using it to charge an internal circuit with perhaps a 2nd smaller loop for the switchingBut as I originally said I just love prototyping
Obviously though as well as the afore mentioned bridge a simple regulator would help
Never understood why people get white LED's then put them behind red filters as you're restricting a good 60%+ of the light output![]()
throw this in the mix for magic wireless power?
PLANAR Transformer Core, Power Ferrite Low Loss E32 x2 on eBay (end time 25-Nov-09 03:08:52 GMT)
/td
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