Ride Report - Alps and Tuscany

[Hagrid]

OK Then Ride Report… Are you sitting comfortably? Good, then I’ll begin…

Day Zero…
Cambridge to Harwich!

After work, ride from Cambridge to Harwich for the 23:30 ferry (Yippee!)
Boarded an hour early, Ferry sailed an hour late. Plenty of straps available, although I had taken two of my own really heavy duty ones just in case. Very helpful crew to check all the bikes where secure and to lend a hand if needs be.
I’d booked a ‘Captains Cabin’ (real bed, free mini bar!), ‘cus I knew the next days riding would be long and I was gonna need to sleep during the crossing, and I did, like a baby.

Day One…
Hoek of Holland to Freiburg (Black Forrest, Southern Germany)

Our International survey of Macky D’s restaurants commences and we gave the Dutch a Score of 7 out of 10 for breakfast, not bad but let down by the standard of their coffee. Holiday Happy adrenaline kicked in, and although the weather was hot a good ride was had down the Motorways due South(ish), cruising at 80mph+ clocking up about 450 miles.

Mental note to self: Avoid the ‘Suicide’ lane; that is the fast lane of German Autobhans when riding an Africa, Eloisa is no where near quick enough to keep up!

Day Two…
Ride Out - The Black Forest

The Campsite owner sketched out a route of about 150miles we ‘had’ to do, so we did, awesome, local knowledge is always best, including Schluschsee, Sankt Peter and Titisee (yeah it amused me to boys!) Good hilly roads, good weather, good riding and lovely peaceful scenery.

Mental note to self: Remember the black squiggly bits of tarmac used copiously to fill the slight cracks in the asphalt are as slippery as hell in hot weather when cornering at speed (trust me here).

Day Three…
Frieburg to Fusch (Austria, between the Grosglocker and Zell Am See)

Take the scenic route via Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Austria, start to get that Julie Andrews feeling after passing Innsbruck, which goes some of the way to relieve the ‘Ive just been mugged in Switzerland’ anger after having to pay 50Euros for a Vinaigrette thingy! Approximately 450 miles in total, but it was a long 10+ hour day as a large proportion was single carriageway through the mountains and the numerous 10km+ western Austrian tunnels.

Mental note to self: Clean your bloody lights!

Day Four…
Ride Out – The Grosglockner (Austria’s highest mountain)

18Euros to enter the Grosglockner National Park for Bikes? It’s a deal; it’s a steal; it’s sale of the f**king century, totally awesome. Been there before but the roads up the mountains are truly magnificent and the weather again was great. Up to ‘Biker Point’ (It’s just so nice on the continent to be a biker and not being treated like a second class citizen!), and enjoy the stunning views before heading on to the Glacier (again biker friendly, with separate secure parking and even free helmet lockers!), and then on to Heiligenblut (an old favourite spot of mine, with what has to have one of the prettiest churches in the world!)

Sourced some most excellent Frankfurters, and thus begins our staple diet of Pasta and frankfurters for dinner, with variations how ever; including noodles with frankfurters; plain crusty bread with frankfurters and when available fried tinned potatoes with frankfurters (Scrambled Eggs on the side are optional, but always a nice treat, if your not the one on Pan washing detail!). The first experience of Eloisa’s Exhaust popping when descending the mountains.

Mental note to self: Riding through tunnels can be easier; if not smellier, when the dark visor on my lid is lifted up.

Day Five…
Rest Day

We both could use a Monging day, as we haven’t really stopped, sat back and relaxed yet, that and the next days ride was going to be another long one. Decide then to chill out at the campsite which did have a peaceful atmosphere to it, with an alpine stream running only yards away from the pitch and fantastic view over the misty mountains. So showers, spot of reading; listen to some tunes, invent new and exciting frankfurter recipes etc.etc.

Mental note to self: Buy a Higher tent on return to Blighty. I’d forgotten how challenging getting ‘bad, down and dirty’ in a low tent can be.

Day Six…
Fusch to San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy)

Another long day with various terrains to traverse, commencing with a slow few hour ride over the Alps to the Dolomites, before heading due south again to Bologna, Firenze and then onto San Gimignano. Progress was slow, hampered by very changeable weather, having to ride through the smoke from a small forest fire and experiencing a truly massive thunderstorm that made riding somewhat treacherous.. The Italian Macky D’s score was a very poor 3 out of 10, most of their points where lost due to a very strange dressing!

Eventually reaching San Gim. after 10+ hours riding, about 450 miles, the campsite was packed, we were both tired, it was late and we just wanted some peaceful rest, and the only pitch left on the campsite was next to the sites ‘Disco’! F**k that for a game of soldiers, so we checked into a hotel we’d just passed for the night to experience the luxury of a real bed and had a proper dinner in a real restaurant.

Mental note to self: Remember, Italians should not be allowed, under any circumstances, to ride or drive anything, on any road, ever, period! When car drivers cut up ambulances with flashing lights, you just know there not going to care in the slightest about me on a motorbike, stay alert!

Day Seven…
Ride Out – Tuscany

OK I admit it, I truly adore Tuscany, San Gim., Florence and the surrounding area has to be one of my favourite spots anywhere in the world. There’s something about Italy and this area that defies age, it’s simplicity, it’s peacefulness, the washed out colour of every vista, the dilapidation of all the buildings, and people who I’ve always found to be some of the friendliest in the world; if not the most insane, the country is just so me.

Ohh that was arty, sorry, ok on with ride report. We set off early, got off the beaten track and just rode 200 miles or so of random roads, awesome riding in a stunning area. Passing through a few of the medieval villages in the area, lunching in Volterra and retiring back early to San Gim. to consume vast quantities of most excellent Pizza. And for pudding? Well just a couple (honest!), of Ice-creams bought from a Gelateria who just happened to be a Team Member of the World Champion Squad in 2006-2007…. Ummm….Sex in a cone!)

Mental note to self: In future, buy Ice-cream in single scoops but more frequently, triple scoops melt too quickly in the heat.

Day Eight…
Ride Out – Pisa and Florence

I really wanted to spend a whole day around Firenze and re-visit the Uffizi , but alas time and all that, so we did the morning in Pisa and the afternoon in Firenza. Battling the traffic around the tower was amusing, but I played ignorant tourist as I weaved my way the wrong way up one-way streets, hey; when in Rome... A late lunch was taken on the Ponte Vecchio, where else.

Mental note to self: Try and keep calmer when handed a bill for 9.5Euros for 2 small coffees in future.

Day Nine…
San Gimignano to Laas (Stelvio, Northern Italy)

Another long ride day, 400 miles, mostly motorway in high heat, back to Modena and up the E45, before heading west at Bolzano back into the mountains. The weather was hot, but we remained booted and suited, which is more than I can say for the Motorbike Carabiniere who were riding ‘CHiPs’ style, with short sleeved shirts, no gloves and thin trousers, what kinda example is that to give! (See day 6 and Italian riders/drivers).

We eventually arrived at the campsite, hot and weary, before realizing no provisions for the evening meal had been sourced and all the sausages had been eaten. It was late, we were in a Tiny Village and everywhere was shut, emergency instant Peperami Noodles… Umm… Yummy...

Mental note to self: Never rely on a single packet of Peperami Noodles to fortify ones constitution in future.

Continued on Thread Below

:O)

[Hagrid]

Continued... From Part 1...

Day Ten…
Ride Out – Stelvio Pass

After waking early to purchase vast quantities of much need nourishment, bread, cheese and frankfurters, I striped the bike right back on weight and ran with only 10Ltrs of fuel to tackle the 2700mtr high and nearly 50 hairpins of the Stelvio pass. The weather had turn slightly damp, but mostly a dry ascent was made.

Absolutely bloody fantastic, even if it did take me 20 or so hairpins to get into the swing of just how tight some of them where, but after that, there was no stopping me. Well I didn't think Eloisa and I were doing to bad that was until a whole plethora of race bikes wasted us like we weren’t even moving. I did however note, the Pussys were all putting their feet down going around the hairpins and not taking them at any pace greater than me, phah, amateurs...

After a coffee, been robbed of 5Euros for a Frankfurter and another 4Euros for a 2cm Diameter ‘Stelvio Pass’ sticker at the top and a brief chat with another AT owner, the descent was made. And I must say, riding down facing away from the pass made for some breathtaking views, when I was able to briefly look away from the road that is. I was also really getting into the grove and by the time we had returned to the campsite I was feeling very smug about myself and my supreme mastery of everything motorcycle (To be short lived obviously!).

Mental note to self: Scraping a Peg on the tarmac going around a hairpin isn’t big and isn’t clever! (you might of noticed an ‘Oh F**k’ moment on , at the seventh hairpin, just approaching the cars, 1 minuet 10 seconds in).

Day Eleven…
Laas to Grimsel (Swiss Alps)

For many reasons this was the best day for me. This was also the most demanding riding day by far, the bike was fully loaded, including 43Ltrs of fuel, we’re two-up, the day started by bucketing down with rain and the roads ahead where going to be even more demanding than the Stelvio Pass. We only covered about 250 miles in a whole day of virtual non stop riding, but the scenery traveling west through the Alps was just amazing.

Firstly the planned route took us through St.Moritz, where we obviously took the opportunity for an early lunch by the lake (we parked up and after rummaging around in my saddlebags I conjured up the squashed remains of the excessive quantities of bread and cheese purchase the day before, which I’m sure the locals didn’t really approve of), and then continued over some of the best roads you could possible ever wish to ride.

Julierpass, St.Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Ofenpass, Grimselpass and Furkapass all tackled in a single day, truly truly awesome riding in superlative scenery. Mountain road after mountain road, hairpin after hairpin, it never seemed to end. Well obviously it did, and I was completely knackered by the time we eventually pitched, tired but an extremely content boy.

Mental note to self: I’m not 12 years old any longer, chortling at funny place names is disrespectful to other cultures… ‘C**ter’ LOL

Day Twelve…
Grimsel to Xonrupt-Longemer (Alsace, France)

Getting back onto some boring motorways again, we stopped in Bern (to see the bears), before heading north leaving the Alps behind us and voyaging into the Alsace region of France (which in my very humble opinion is their nicest bit). Only covering 250 miles or so we traveled the winding roads over the Vosges Mountains through Munster into the valleys, eventually settling in a Campsite by Lake Longemer.

The riding was good, the scenery lovely through the wooded mountains and we spent a considerable amount of time leisurely riding down random narrow roads, where we were reminded of the regions turbulent past. A considerable number of WW1 war graves were located peacefully in the mountains, we stopped and gave due reverence, as you must in such situations.

Mental note to self: Offering a stranded GS Rider on your campsite the use of your spare chain when his Cardan is completely knackered and he’s loading his bike onto the back of a trailer doesn’t seem to amuse German BMW riders, try not to snigger smugly in future.

Day Thirteen…
Rest Day

A Day to briefly kick back, relax, relive some of our recent experiences and enjoy the surroundings. It rained a bit, which was the perfect excuse to hibernate in the tent and catch up on some zd’s.

Mental note to self: In future do not try to explain the Flying Spaghetti Monster religion (Stickers on Eloisa), to a family of Germanic and very Christian campers pitched next to you. Well not unless two or more of you have a common tongue with which to at least try and communicate successfully. (What is German for Noodly Appendages?)

Day Fourteen…
Longemer to Amsterdam (You know, the one in Holland)

I wanted to be further north to catch the Ferry the next day, so it was decided to put a few miles on and spend the night in Dam. A relatively easy ride of 300 miles or so, but what I noticed and what I hadn’t missed at all, was the increase of traffic in Northern Europe as we travelled through France, Luxembourg, Belgium and into the Netherlands.

A luxury was also staying in a Hotel in the centre of Dam, dinning out in a marvellous restaurant, wandering around the ‘District’ before retiring to one of Dams fantastic small and exceptionally friendly bars to consume vast quantities of outstandingly good beer. A well deserved treat of an evening, so cool, so Dam.

Ohh and the Dam. Police were all riding Alps and taking a very keen interest in Eloisa. ‘Not a BMW?’

Mental note to self: There is a reason why they serve beer in small glasses, there’s no need to order 2 every time, take the hint!

Day Fifteen…
Amsterdam to Home

After taking breakfast in the city we try and escape Dam. Is it just me or are the Dutch really crap at signposting in cities? (OK so my lack of total awareness to Dutch signage might have been slightly impaired by the quantities of Leffe consumed the previous night). Anyways, 2 hours later and where at the ferry port and as had become are usual habit, drinking strong continental coffee by the bucket load, sitting in the sunshine and enjoying just watching the world pass by.

Loading the bike on the Ferry, this time the crew were less than helpful though straps where available, it was a bit chaotic and you were left to fend for yourself. We rested again in the ‘Captains Cabin’ before stocking up on DF’s and departing.

On returning to Blighty, yep you guessed it, pouring with rain and miserable. An ‘I don’t wanna be here’ last 100miles late in the evening ride to finish the trip.

Mental note to self: Don’t play ‘chicken’ with trams in future, they’re always gonna win!

Summary…
Awesome time, really really enjoyed the riding, the lifestyle and the freedom. If you’ve never done anything like this, do it; don’t just dream about it. Yes it can be hard work some days, but the rewards, where ever you travel on a Bike once you get off the motorways are enormous, you're there, you're totally submerged in your surroundings, everything from the slightest smell to the greatest vista you truly live and experience.

Ohhh… If anyones ever down in San Gim. and they find a large fitting, right handed Alpinestars summer glove, it’s mine!

OK A few Pictures then.... (Another forty or so are located here...)










An equipment/provisions list (posted seperately below because of the 10000 character per post limit), in a vain attempt to fend off my critics for carrying excessive amounts of luggage.

:0)

[Hagrid]

As detailed in my ride report for the trip, I thought I’d add just a brief description of the equipment/provisions taken (in a vain attempt to fend off my critics for carrying excessive amounts of luggage).


41Ltr. N/S Box

Tool Kit – Front and Rear Spare Tubes, Levers, Small Compressor, Lube, Spare Bulbs, Fuses, Gaffer Tape, Straps, Misc Tools etc.
Cooking Hardware – Dragon Fly, Plates x 2, Mugs x 2, Saucepan x 2, 2 x Plastic Glasses
Scoff – Porridge, Emergency Pasta, Coffee, Powdered Milk, Golden Syrup (My Luxury) ), Tea Towel etc.
Collapsible 10Ltr Water Bag (Filled and used on Campsites)
High-Res Road Map to Europe (Big and Bulky but most excellent)
Table Insert for Boxes
Attached to Rear of Box – 2Ltr. Spare Plastic Fuel Container
Attached to Front of Box – Small Pouch – Pac-Safe Securing Wire for Bag, Nibbles etc.

35Ltr. O/S Box

Heavy duty Chain & Lock
Clothing (Me 1 x Trousers, 3 x T-shirts, 3 x Socks (Pairs that is), 3 x Boxers, Spare Gloves!… Her… Lots!)
Towels and Toiletries (Me Tooth Brush and Shampoo… Her… Lots!)
Attached to Rear of Box – 2 x 1Ltr Stove Fuel Containers
Attached to Front of Box – Small Pouch – Pac-Safe Securing Wire for Bag, Nibbles etc.

Top Box – Touring Mode

2 x Self inflating Mattresses,
Inflatable Pillows
Emergency Fleece (Hers!)
Attached to Top Box – 3 x Water Bottles 4Ltr Total, 1 x Coffee Thermos

Top Box – Day Mode (When Riding without the side boxes Attached)

Tools and Spares (as above 41Ltr Box)
Heavy Duty Chain and Lock
Emergency Fleece (Hers!)
Attached to Top Box – 3 x Water Bottles 4Ltr Total, 1 x Coffee Thermos

Tank Bag (Detachable Rucksack style)

First Aid Kit, Fags, Knife, Maps, Documents, Spare Glasses, 2 x Books
Camera equipment, MP3 Player, Shades and other stuff you don’t want knicked.

Saddle Bags (2 x 10 Ltr.)

Waterproofs (Hers)
Pac-Safe Helmet Bags x 2 (Excellent for securing helmets to the Bike when you wanna go walk-a-bout)
Sandles (Only other footware for me, lightweight but big!)
Any Tucker or Vino Picked up for dinner during the day
Caps (For those Bad hair days)

Waterproof Bag O/S (Attached to Box)

2 x Sleeping Bags

Waterproof Bag N/S (Attached to Box)

Tent and Ground Sheet

Ohhh almost forgot… Strapped anywhere… the Waterproof Puppy Holder!!! :O) (For when you gotta go Sh*t in the woods!)

Now come on, that’s not much really, is it?

[Sharribee]

Fantastic report Fletch, great piccies too. Looks like you had a great couple of weeks.

[Steve C]

Bloomin outstanding report Fletch! Thanks for taking so much trouble

[Chad]

Bloomin outstanding report Fletch! Thanks for taking so much trouble

ditto loved every word of it what a great time you had

[stanbloke]

Now thats what I call a ride report !!!

Excellent.

[SteveWilko]

Struth Fletch.... I enjoyed reading that more than reading Moaning Mcgregors Long Way Round....

Well done...

[Breeze]

Great reading F1etch, thanks for sharing... and I do agree with your comments about the driving habits of my countrymen: too often simply appalling!

[moon]

top banana fletch, thanks for taking the time to write it up.