My new DRZ400S

[tendays]

Got it home yesterday. 2005 model so it's got the good suspension and auto cam chain tensioner.

Pics will follow at some point when i can take photos in the light.

Anyway, I might need some advice from wise people here, not being too handy with spanners.

Not utterly convinced the stated mileage is genuine after having a close look at rear sprocket. Also finding mud in nooks and crannies despite "it looks like he's never taken it off road" from dealer. And it's certainly not on original rubber, despite only 1900 miles on clock.

The dealer told me he didn't think it had been dynojetted. Now i've taken it for a quick ride
- starting took a few goes with various choke settings
- seems to run fine and picks up without hesitation
- heard no popping, banging or tinkling
- seems fine up to 75mph indicated
(this is a bit subjective as I've only tried one other DRZ briefly)

Got it home and had the seat off, i find the previous owner has done the 3x3 airbox mod. Now i read this shouldn't be done without changing to bigger jets/different needle, so I'm a bit concerned. Partly 'cos I think I'd need to inform my insurers if there are any mods?

How do i find out if jets/needle have been changed, without taking the carb to bits? Is it worth taking tank off and having a look at the plug? What are the symptoms of lean running i'd be looking/listening for if he's done the airbox mod without rejetting?

Hoping some wise person can offer advice...

/td

[Noel]

If its still got stock exhaust and filter I doubt it's running lean enough to do damage, the only way to find out whats jets are in the carb is by pulling the pilot jet out and removing the bowl to see the main jet, if it has a proper dynojet kit in, the needle will have two maybe three different rates of taper on it.
You can do a plug pull to see what it looks like but to somebody thats not sure what a plug should like it can be hard to tell, worth putting on a dyno (usually about £25 for a power run) to find out if its running lean from the gas analysis.

[Sohoeasy]

Tendays,Interesting problem I can't help you with sorry ( nice bike though ! is it Yella') .It did lead me to this photo of yours,got to ask where it was,if you can rember?

[tendays]

Thanks Noel. Think i'll commute on it and see if i notice anything. Then check plug when i get a chance (- glazing from heat if lean?) Then consider dyno as you suggest. Finger in exhaust (matron) brought out a bit of soot which I think is a good sign? Spose I could tape up the hole a bit, see if it runs any different - gotta be worth a try?

Sohoeasy - nah it's blue! That pic was from a gorge walk in the Picos, erm ... finds guidebook ... aha! - La Garganta del Cares.

/td

[Noel]

A light brown colour on the ceramic is what you want for a good colour white is lean, black is rich, best done with a new plug and the warm engine stopped underload by hitting the kill switch at roughly 3k rpm.

[Sohoeasy]

Blue is nice ......Thanx for the info,nice trip you did there.

[tendays]

OK i've run it for a week now. Pulled the plug today. Bit tricky without the OEM plug wrench. Photos below:






I'm not an experienced plug observer (!) but i think this may be a bit on the white/lean side. Looks new enough. No traces of deposits on the ceramic, very light grey/white colour on electrode. Some soot on the threads.

So I think I'll be taping up the gaping airbox hole for now, to take it back to standard. Then considering jetting.

Am I on the right lines here?

/td

[tendays]

well i've just got it back from the dyno shop, here are the results:



The bloke reckoned it is running fine and doesn't need jetting. He also said the knobblies are taking up to 10 bhp off what it would otherwise read! He knows a bit about DRZs, he used to own an E which is quite different. He recommends blanking off the restrictive air system on the carb which lets you get more power in low gears.

Added bonus: i can use this printout to sell it to a restricted learner if i ever want to!!

/td

[Katmandu]

Got it home yesterday. 2005 model so it's got the good suspension and auto cam chain tensioner.

/td

There is no year where it has a good cam chain tensioner. The very first one could easily destroy the engine, all following versions will over tighten the cam chain and prematurely wear the chain guides and the chain.

Your other comment about the dyno result. That is about 33hp? - is that at the rear wheel or calculated engine output. I think that is still too much for new riders as it has to be 33hp at the engine doesn't it?

[Paul-S]

Seems your queries have been resolved. The other option for information is to write to the previous owner

I've done this on my current bike and got a lot more info and some bits that I would otherwise have had to pay more for