clutch change ....how long to change plates?

[babybadger]

Dear All,

How long does it take to change a TA clutch, and what is involved. Bear in mind I have a 2 spanner haynes rating , maybe 3 with help from a mate!

Any idea on cost? I have seen EBC make a H/Duty kit as well

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MakeTrack=true

Cheers

[Fatjohn]

Never done it, But I'd assume it's not the owrst job in the world as it *should* all be accessible enough. Unlike changing the air-filter..

Do you have a Haynes?

[raymo]

tupperware off ( i.e remove the belly pan and the left side fairing)

You will need to take the headers off, so will need new coppers header gaskets, to take the headers of you need to remove the rear too.. so whole exhaust off!!!!

disconnect clutch cable

you then remove the outer casing ( suggest you drain the oil first.. ) so new gasket here too!!

Some folk change there release bearing , but I didn't

remove the 4 springs ( suggest you change these as a matter of course)

then put into top gear and jam the rear brake on while you undo the big nut!! ( you will need a replacement as it is recommended that you do not re-use).. that's where I came unstuck.. nut would not budge and the brake slipped.. best done with two folk.. then remembered I had bought a 12v impact tool that takes wheel nut off!! 1/2inch drive.. off in a jiff.

( note it is recommend that you pre-soak the plates in oil over night)

replace friction plates ( note the one with the largest internal diameter goes in last as the conical spacer fits into it to stop the clutch rattle when pulled in??)
new nut on torque it up, cover on ( with new gasket), clutch cable on-- exhaust on.. fill with oil!!!!!!!!!!!!

took me 2 hours...

if you have any doubts, get someone else to do it!!

I am in Aberdeen.. so this is all the help I can offer..

good luck

works a treat now

ray

[stoo]

Never done it, But I'd assume it's not the owrst job in the world as it *should* all be accessible enough. Unlike changing the air-filter..

Changing the air filter is a 5 minute job on the 600.

But as compensation, there's no underseat storage.


No idea what the clutch is like on the TA, though it's a 20 minute job on the XR. - just whip the side cover off (10 bolts) then the clutch springs (4 bolts) then draw the plates out of the drum. Replace the fibre plates, re-use the steel plates (as long as they're not blued or warped or too thin) and stick it all back together.

[babybadger]

Ray,

Many thanks mate.

Its not terrible at the moment, but is starting to slip. Should have another 2000 miles if looked after (only 12k on the clock!). If I slip the clutch out of a corner in third , I can feel it labouring! Last service engineer liked pulling wheelies on it rather than servicing it!

Cheers

Babybadger

[Lord Stig]

It took me and a friend nearly six hours - the headers wouldn't come off, so we had to bend them out of the way while the clutch cover was slipped off. Stopping the engine turning to get the bolt off is also a swine, even with two people. Ours was a 1989 VK - yours is that much newer you might not have to many problems.

I'm surprised it's started to slip with so few miles - did someone use car oil in it before you? As an adjunct to the tale of changing the clutch on the 600VK, when we finished the job I decided to oil his clutch cable for good measure. It turned out to be almost seized in place - he was able to pull it in, but it wasn't releasing properly. He hadn't noticed how heavy it had become! Six hours wasted? Nah! Considering the mileage it might be wise to undo your cable and see how free it is....

Stig

[YEN_POWELL]

Ray,

Many thanks mate.

Its not terrible at the moment, but is starting to slip. Should have another 2000 miles if looked after (only 12k on the clock!). If I slip the clutch out of a corner in third , I can feel it labouring! Last service engineer liked pulling wheelies on it rather than servicing it!

Cheers

Babybadger

Slip the clutch in 3rd!!!!! You're not an ex 2 stroke motocross rider are you?

[raymo]

mine would slip in top under load, once warm ( DR's doing it and I have the plates ready ( £38 notes, and I suspect its the same clutch assembly) the old plates were not burnt or worn, just look a bit glazed, bike had 22k on the clock and the previous owner had been using fully synthetic oil.. its now on good old GTX.

if your ddeliberately slipping the clutch to get better power delivery, change your bike.... 'cos pretty soon you will be an expert at changing the clutch my bit were £58 I recall from David Silver.

[Lord Stig]

I still wonder about that cable. My AT's done 79,000 and still on the original clutch. I've never had less than 60,000 to a clutch, even using slimy car oils...

Stig

[raymo]

Both my BSA's have the original manky cork plates, total loss GTX oil system.. may revert back to chip fat

Both of the 'new't o me bike ( Tralsalp and the DR600 have the same cluch slip under torque/load.. ( both has synthtic£££££ oil)... ahhh now on GTXand change regular.. ( suzuki Bandit & DR are oil air cooled so the GTX.. and change often (3k oil 6k oil & filter).

Dont want to re-open the oil debatebut there is a common factor here

Ray