View Poll Results: which type of chain ?

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  • 'O' ring

    3 33.33%
  • 'X' ring

    6 66.67%
  • Non 'O' Ring

    0 0%
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Thread: Which chain and Sprockets........

  1. #1
    babybadger's Avatar
    babybadger is offline 51 Buell X1 & 89 Tenere
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    Which chain and Sprockets........

    In the next 3-4k I need new chain and sprockets, I had some fitted about 4-5k ago and they are starting to pull from the rear sprocket about 2-3 mm. I don't know what make they were, but they were ****e!

    Question is , what does everyone favour? 'non-o-ring', 'O' ring or 'X' ring? and which make?

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  3. #2
    Austin's Avatar
    Austin is online now 2 bikes = twice as happy
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    Original Honda parts from David Sliver - cheaper than everything else.
    2001 Transalp XLV650. Faithful old friend still chugging away nearly 100,00miles
    2007 Varadero XLV1000. Now you're torquing but sadly gone to another forum member. One of the best bikes - period.
    Yamaha XT660r - slowly getting it ready for some big adventures

  4. #3
    piguglyshandydrinker's Avatar
    piguglyshandydrinker is offline Natural born fiddler ;-)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Austin
    Original Honda parts from David Sliver - cheaper than everything else.
    As above or I paid more for DID (gold X ring) with original front sprocket (pattern rear).

    Phil

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  5. #4
    JohnR is offline Elderly Member
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    Spookily, I changed my chain and sprockets today. Someone described their experience doing the job recently (wasn't it you Austin?) so I followed the lead. Kit from Silvers, tool from M and P and, and with the aforsaid guidance, it was a breeze.

    However, I'm wondering if I really needed to change the sprockets. I know it is the received wisdom to do it all in one hit but I laid the new ones on the old ones and I could see absolutely no wear. There was no hooking on the teeth, no reduction in the grindings, nothing! Are we just following the salesman's advice, or should I hang on to the old sprockets and put them back on if needed.

    The chain certainly needed changing. It had already reached the 'Renew chain' mark but suddenly it kept getting extremely slack. Ultimately it became about 1 1/2 to 2 inches longer than the new one.

    What I did find, though, was an awful lot of flung off crud. Could that have been the recently fitted Scotoiler cleaning out the accumulated chain wax used before? Could this have cleaned the pins out and given it the additional slack.

    The bike rides great with it's new kit, but could I have 'risked' just putting on a new chain?

  6. #5
    piguglyshandydrinker's Avatar
    piguglyshandydrinker is offline Natural born fiddler ;-)
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    Once a chain has worn to a certain degree (past the hardening on the pins) it will wear extremely fast from that point on - as you have found out!
    I doubt that fitting the scottoiler has any inflence in this sudden increase in wear.

    There will be some wear on the old sprockets, but I too have wondered If they could be left on, but on closer inspection the front normally shows a little wear, next time the rear is staying and front is getting changed.

    If you measured 1 1/2 to 2 inches, that was one seriously worn chain!!!

    Phil

    Safe House

    '02 Transalp
    '01 Transalp (Transrat)
    '98 Transalp
    '91 NC30
    '08 Hornet (Vanessa's)

  7. #6
    JohnR is offline Elderly Member
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    'If you measured 1 1/2 to 2 inches, that was one seriously worn chain!!! '

    Yup, that was when the panic kicked in. It had moved from 'keep an eye on it' to ' don't use it until you've sorted it out'.

    I don't think the Scotoiler caused any additional wear, I was pondering if the previous chain wax had filled spaces and when washed out created extra slack.

    I'll keep the rear sprocket and use it as a pattern to check the wear on the new one.

  8. #7
    LazyRider is offline Senior Member
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    Once the 'O' or 'X' seals are damaged the chain lubrication inserted during manufacture will run out and the chain will then wear very quickly.
    You do not actually oil/wax the chain to lubricate the pintles, but to keep the seals in good condition - to keep the lubrication in place - and the none contact areas rust free. That is the benefit of a Scottoiler.

    Applying chain oil or wax to a dirty chain can cause the dirt and grit to form into a rubbing compound that can attack the seals.
    A quick wipe with an oily rag (kept in a plastic bag) is better than just spraying wax/oil onto a dirty chain.

    As sprockets are relatively cheap, it is false economy not to replace them when replacing the chain.
    That is not to say that you need to replace the (expensive) chain when you replace sprockets.

    I would suggest that you always replace the front sprocket with a genuine Honda item - that plastic insert they have, does do a specific job, in encouraging the chain to turn round the front sprocket and it can help stop 'stiff links' - that really means sticking to the Honda chain..

    Sprockets and chains, even though they are of the same size, are not always compatible. If you do change to an after-market chain, make sure you always keep to the same make, if you are changing just one bit of the transmission..

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