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Thread: broken stud

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    bandit's Avatar
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    broken stud

    Can anyone help when replacing my front wheel I sheered of one of axle holder studs
    Has anyone got tips to remove the old one. Can I use heat on aluminum? Is there resin that holds the studs in? or am I going to have to take it to a professional.
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    Last edited by bandit; 22-03-08 at 05:10 PM.
    05 XL650V TRANSALP IN SILVER SW-MOTEC SIDE CARRIERS GIVE PANNIERS AND TOP BOX

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    MCsanandreas is offline Senior Member
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    Re: broken stud

    try loads of WD40 on the other studs before you try taking the nuts off. there may be enough thread left to get molegrips on the broken bit? if not its drill and stud extractor time.

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    Re: broken stud

    if you can get a set of molegrips on it, and it shifts, don't try to get it out in one. it's usually better to work it back and forth a bit as you undo it. If moles slip, you could try filing flats on it. heat the alloy up a bit too, that helps. if all else fails, there's always spark erosion.

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    Re: broken stud

    From your very good photo it looks like the stud snapped off just under the clamp, this should mean that if you support the front end and take the clamp/ wheel off there will be enough thread to screw on two nuts, once they're on tighten one against the other and get a spanner on the lower one, it should undo the stud and no there isn't any resin or locking compound in there.

    To help things along soak the thread with Plus-Gas, not WD40 (or use the 3-in-1 equivalent penetrating oil), if you don't you will hear a horrible sqeaking, like you've just stood on a demented ferret as the aluminium lets go.

    Make sure and use a tiny blob of copperslip when you screw in the new stud and don't overtighten, don't worry, you're not the first and won't be the last to do this

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    Re: broken stud

    Plus-Gas? dont think i have ever used that. heard of it. any good at getting into nasty seized places?

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    Re: broken stud

    Quote Originally Posted by MCsanandreas View Post
    Plus-Gas? dont think i have ever used that. heard of it. any good at getting into nasty seized places?
    Yup! that's what it's made for, much better than WD40 which is a good lubricant, but not a proper penetrating oil, leave it on for a couple of hours if possible, when you undo the joint you'll see it's disolved a lot of the rust into a runny paste, absolutely priceless

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    MCsanandreas is offline Senior Member
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    Re: broken stud

    Quote Originally Posted by Dilbert View Post
    Yup! that's what it's made for, much better than WD40 which is a good lubricant, but not a proper penetrating oil, leave it on for a couple of hours if possible, when you undo the joint you'll see it's disolved a lot of the rust into a runny paste, absolutely priceless
    cheers for that,may come in useful on the project XL250.

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    Re: broken stud

    Quote Originally Posted by Dilbert View Post
    From your very good photo it looks like the stud snapped off just under the clamp, this should mean that if you support the front end and take the clamp/ wheel off there will be enough thread to screw on two nuts, once they're on tighten one against the other and get a spanner on the lower one, it should undo the stud and no there isn't any resin or locking compound in there.

    To help things along soak the thread with Plus-Gas, not WD40 (or use the 3-in-1 equivalent penetrating oil), if you don't you will hear a horrible sqeaking, like you've just stood on a demented ferret as the aluminium lets go.

    Make sure and use a tiny blob of copperslip when you screw in the new stud and don't overtighten, don't worry, you're not the first and won't be the last to do this

    Thanks Dilbert I'l give your plan a try once I get some proper penetrating oil
    05 XL650V TRANSALP IN SILVER SW-MOTEC SIDE CARRIERS GIVE PANNIERS AND TOP BOX

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