New chain & front brake pistons problems. HELP!

[Shayite]

Have had problems today when have tried to fit a new chain.

I was trying to use the type that has a groove to fit the split link, according to the instructions you have to press on the flat plate first? Then press it down far enough so the split link can be attached over the top onto the grooved bits.

I couldn't force it down far enough I was using a small vice but it was difficult to grip and press it down. Please tell me I have not done it completely wrong and the chain will come off once ridden, or do I need a specialist tool to do the job properly?

As for the pison, I can't force one of them back far enough, so there is space created so they will fit on the new disc. I bled out the brakes as I'm changing both pads and discs. It could well be seized due to the fact that I live on a terrace street, thus no garage and it has had to survive the ravages of another winter. But I run it 5 days a week and the brake as a whole works well.

Any ideas/solutions?

[brownie2]

are you sure you got the right split link for the right chain, i took my chain in the shop and made sure last time as i had the same problem.

chain link was only £1,50 from a honda dealer.

as for the pistons, i had the same problem on my xlr, i let the pads get to low and when i had to replace them i couldn't get 1 back in far enough,

bought the current edition of TBM. they had an idiot proof guide to caliper overhaul, worked for me!

[Recycler]

I use a Motrax chain tool. They're not cheap at about £50 but have fittings for pressing the new link together and spreading the pins neatly. I have spread the pins with a hammer and punch before but that's a bit hit & miss - you could end up with a tight link etc. The Honda & Haynes manual specifies the measurement accross the new link and also the diameter you should spread the pins to.

Brakes - sounds like they're gummed up. Have you tried using a small G-clamp to push the pistons in? When the pistons are clean and new dust/piston seals fitted they go in easy (smear some fresh brake fluid on the piston first). Unless you want to fully strip the calipers you can try pumping the brake a little to push some of the piston out, then clean what you can see before pushing them back in. Be very careful not to push the piston out too far though.

Welcome to the site and good luck.

[idefix]

As for the brakes, get a spesial tool for this, it is two flat plates and a treaded screw .. it works like a wise pushing outwards. It is very common for cars and works fine for bikes too. Also check that all the sliding pins are moving freely. If you cannot find the cause take the calliper to a workshop and get them to fix, does not cost a fortune .. .

For the Chain, it is a 525 chain probably. I got the DID tool and it worked fine, just remember that when you rivet that bolt you should push against a solid plate, not a whole ... and you must be accurate. If you are uncertain check with the dealer.

[FatFergie]

Chain;

A vice will do the job but you might need a bit more leverage than a very small vice will give. Try sticking washers or small nuts on the jaws of the vice (to pass over the ends of the pins). It's easier to watch someone do it than get instructions over the forum so if you're not sure get a real live person to check it.

Brake;

One piston always seems to move easier than others. Release the bleed screw and it should make it easier to push it back in.
It might be binding at the seal. Sometimes corrosion can build up behind the dust seal and push it outwards (inwards?) onto the sealmaking it tight.
There could also be corrosion on the piston preventing it getting past the seals. Dismantling and cleaning out the corrosion should sort it out. If the dust seals are ok after removing I'd reuse them but I wouldn't reuse the main seals.

[Orinoco]

I think the chain problem has been done to death.......

Brake;

Check that the master cylinder is not full thus making it impossible for more fluid to leave the piston chamber, if it is release the bleed screw [make sure you have a pipe to carry the excess fluid away safely] and carry on trying to push it home OR pump the brakes to move the piston out some and release any pressure that has built up, then remove the master cylinder cap and remove some fluid that way.

If the piston is jamming on the way back then either;

as FatFergie says, there is dirt behind the dust or fluid seal. Strip the caliper and clean it, I'd spend time to make sure the groove that the seals sit in are absolutely, totally clear of dirt before reassembling as I've has the seal distorted by some dirt behind it jam the piston before. Lube the piston with some clean brake fluid to make it easier to insert.

You need to insert the piston totally squarely to the caliper. If you have problems doing this with your fingers - get a socket that is the same size as the piston and place it on the top of the piston then very gently tap it with a hammer to ease it down the bore. If you find the other piston moves out as you do this then you've got too much fluid in the system.

[AIRWOLF]

Hold on there guys, he said the chain had a SPLIT LINK, so he does'nt need a riviting tool.
as first reply says make sure you have the correct length split link.
O-ring split links can be a little tight but a pair of pliers is usually enough to get the spring clip in place.

Though i must say i prefer a rivited link.

the brakes;- as above.

[Mudwiz]

I used a split link on my TA for ages, that one ran through the mill a bit too, and didn't get any problems. I chose the split over rivet for ease of "in the field" (often literally!) replacement.
I used to carry a couple of spares too, to give me a chance of bodging together a broken chain.

Used a pair of the Honda "pliers" to squeeze it down no worries, shouldn't be too much of an issue. That said, Renthal chains are much easier to fit than the Triple S. Could be a 520/525 difference though!!

.

[Orinoco]

I tend to think that split links are just as tricky to fit, generally, as riveted links, as you have to compress the O-rings enough to allow the grooves in the pins to be visible then insert the retaining clip.

I would suggest using the washers or nuts between the pins so you can clip the pin over the first of the pins, then move the 'compression point' to the far side of the other pin and use the pliers to push the pin home.

Oh and make sure the clip's closed end faces the direction of travel, just in case you get something solid caught in it and it pops off ......