HI ya

Your english is very good, I do not have much experience with off roading stuff with the TA.
But I thought I would say hello and welcome you to the forum.

Engine guard, I am sure that a AT guard will fit with a bit of adjustment (make some holes / hammer). or you could get a aftermarket alloy engine guard that is made for the TA.

I would also say, fit crash guards as well, the rest I have no clue.

But someone will be along soon to give their input..

have fun :thumbup:

 

Thanks for your welcome.

The aftermarket engine guard are too ugly or expensive. The Touratech looks good, but they told me it will suit only '00 to '02 models.
I like the Africa one, it looks strong and will probably be cheaper on the second hand market.

I already have Givi crashbars, they protect a lot (I experienced it !), but are no good for ground clearance because they're fitted under the frame at the centre stand fixing points. I will probably change them.
The centre stand too reduces ground clearance but is very helpful for maintenance.

In fact, I like a lot what Wheeliebin did to his bike, but I cannot find what kind of modifications he did.

If I can keep the original suspensions and just modify it, that will save me a lot of money for my next travel to Morocco

 

For more clearance, take off the rear suspension linkage & flip it upside down, this lifts the rear.
The front forks will benefit from a bit more preload, 10-15mm will help, this will lift the front a little, if you want more, support the front of the bike and allow the forks to drop through the yolks a bit (so the fork top is below the top of the yoke). This will lift the front a bit more.

There are various aftermarket sump guards available or the AT one. I just bolted a piece of 3mm alloy plate inside the original - maybe not much good for more serious offroading.

You can shed weight by ditching the fairing/clocks & brackets, chopping the cat & fitting an aftermarket silencer, easily lose 20kg from stock.

Like this;



Phil

 

For more clearance, take off the rear suspension linkage & flip it upside down, this lifts the rear.

intresting :thumbright:

could you please give more detail on this?
also u mention peload on the front end, what exactly do you mean? i.e fitting spacers in the top of the forks? is that what you mean?
many thanks :thumbright:

 

Don't know about creating more ground clearance but as for improved sump protection, I "found" an old, damaged road sign and just cut it to size then bent & battered it into shape. I then bolted it under the original plastic sump guard (on the outside) using the rear and front mounting bolts. Sprayed it black so's the "Highland Tartan Museum" reflective logo didn't give the game away as too where I got it from . It's taken a fair few bangs from largish rocks and has stood up well - as it should seeing as it's nearly 3mm thick :thumbright:

PS - this was on a 1991 XL600V, not a 650 version - far too modern them things

I reckon the wheels and rims are up to some enthusiastic off-roading - Mudwiz seemed to manage with his 650. I'd just make sure that on a regular basis I checked the rims for buckles and bends and the spokes for tension and breakages.

Aprt from that, keep enjoying yerself & remember to let us know how you get on - pictures would be nice.

PPS - hope to be in Alicante late April / early May (Torieviaja ??? area), so if you see a red & white @ running round on Brit plates, with a "Policia" look-a-like riding it, it might be me

Steve T

 

Is it part number 4 you flip?



and for adding some preload in your front fork,
you could add a cylindrical collar on top of part 6:

You will however lose some fork travel since the spring will bottom out quicker.

Best would be to buy springs with harder caracter.

 

Is it part number 4 you flip?



and for adding some preload in your front fork,
you could add a cylindrical collar on top of part 6:

You will however lose some fork travel since the spring will bottom out quicker.

Best would be to buy springs with harder caracter.

Yes, flip part number 4 upside down, lifts the rear.

I have had 10-12 mm of preload added to the front springs (a bit too much sag as stock), without being coil bound when compressed they would take more without proiblems, I think mudwiz used to run 1" or more of packing???

Phil

 

I went down the adding preload route prior to jacking up the suspension.
Personally I prefer a more softly sprung set-up for mild off-roading (although you need it siffer for serious stuff, ask Mudwiz).

But softening everything reduces ground clearance, the linkage flip increases the ride height by 50mm at the back.

For the front, I looked at fitting different forks (Africa Twin forks are 43mm diameter, TA's are 41mm), you'd need to change to top and bottom yokes as well.
I went for the easier option, I took one of the fork leg tops to an engineering company and asked them to make a longer version, they are 80mm long. I've lowered the forks 50mm to match the rear. Brake lines are standard length, but re-routed slightly and replaced the speedo cable with one from an RD07 and extended the sidestand.

Ground clearance is about 250mm with a nice level stance.

 

For the front, I looked at fitting different forks (Africa Twin forks are 43mm diameter, TA's are 41mm), you'd need to change to top and bottom yokes as well.

hi do you know if the africa twin yokes fit the transalp?

would a africa twin front end be a strait swop? i.e from a africa twin full forks and yokes, front wheel, mudguard and use the brake discs and calipers off my own transalp?

 

The fork top caps extended.

 

I like those how much did it cost to get machined up?

 

there is a lift kit available from germany,(http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....yISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170210563629&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=007)don't know how good it is.
excuse the translation I used babel fish,vader will be able to tell us if it's wrong............

Produktbeschreibung:
Als führender Spezialist auf dem Gebiet der Heck-Höherlegungen haben wir in den vergangenen Jahren das weltweit umfangreichste und kompetenteste Programm an Höherlegungen entwickelt. Sie erreichen folgende Fahrwerksoptimierungen:
+ verbessertes Handling
+ besseres Ansprechverhalten des Federbeines
+ mehr mechanischer Grip am Hinterrad
+ mehr Gewicht auf dem Vorderrad
+ stärkere Optik des Fahrzeuges durch steiler stehendes Heck.

Material:
Je nach Modell: Edelstahl, oberflächenveredelter Stahl oder hochfestes Aluminium
Montage:
Richtet sich nach Fahrzeugtyp, ist aber problemlos, Montageanleitung liegt bei.

Lieferumfang:
Höherlegung, Montageanleitung ,mit ABE 20mm
Bild zeigt nur Beispiele​

translated as:
Product description: As a prominent specialist in the area of the tail high putting we developed the world-wide most extensive and most competent program in the past years at high putting. They achieve the following chassis optimizations: + improved handling + better responsing mode of the shock strut + more mechanical Grip at the rear wheel + more weights on the front wheel + stronger optics of the vehicle by more steeply standing tail. Material: Depending upon model: High-grade steel, surface-improved steel or high-strength aluminum Assembly: Depends on motor vehicle type, is however problem-free, assembly instruction is attached. Scope of supply: High putting, assembly instruction, with ABE 20mm Picture shows only examples

 

there is a lift kit available from germany,(http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....yISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170210563629&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=007)don't know how good it is.
excuse the translation I used babel fish,vader will be able to tell us if it's wrong............

Produktbeschreibung:
Als führender Spezialist auf dem Gebiet der Heck-Höherlegungen haben wir in den vergangenen Jahren das weltweit umfangreichste und kompetenteste Programm an Höherlegungen entwickelt. Sie erreichen folgende Fahrwerksoptimierungen:
+ verbessertes Handling
+ besseres Ansprechverhalten des Federbeines
+ mehr mechanischer Grip am Hinterrad
+ mehr Gewicht auf dem Vorderrad
+ stärkere Optik des Fahrzeuges durch steiler stehendes Heck. ​

Material:
Je nach Modell: Edelstahl, oberflächenveredelter Stahl oder hochfestes Aluminium
Montage:
Richtet sich nach Fahrzeugtyp, ist aber problemlos, Montageanleitung liegt bei. ​

Lieferumfang:
Höherlegung, Montageanleitung ,mit ABE 20mm
Bild zeigt nur Beispiele​

translated as:
Product description: As a prominent specialist in the area of the tail high putting we developed the world-wide most extensive and most competent program in the past years at high putting. They achieve the following chassis optimizations: + improved handling + better responsing mode of the shock strut + more mechanical Grip at the rear wheel + more weights on the front wheel + stronger optics of the vehicle by more steeply standing tail. Material: Depending upon model: High-grade steel, surface-improved steel or high-strength aluminum Assembly: Depends on motor vehicle type, is however problem-free, assembly instruction is attached. Scope of supply: High putting, assembly instruction, with ABE 20mm Picture shows only examples

#

hi yes iv seen this on ebay looks interesting, dosent say how far it lifts it though, anyone have any experiance on this product??

 

Thanks for all your replies.

I suppose you need to remove definitly the catalysator if you want to flip that part on the back.

And I'm interested too by the price of the top fork caps.
My problem is that it's difficult in my area to find an engineering company which want to do that kind of work for an individual.

Do you think that fork caps will endure the strong torsional forces of an offroad use ? And is the back geometry of the bike altered by the flipping ?

Thank you again for your answers.

 

Finally a suspension thread.
The suspension is the weak link on these pigs.:blob2:
I added a 45mm 1 1/4 inch diam pvc spacer to my forks sping preload, it helped prevent the dreaded thunk over the 1 foot bumps common where I ride so it's easier to go faster in the rough stuff. This added about 25mm to the front end sag. I also flipped the dogbone on the rear shock link for about 50mm rise but the shock still sucks because there is dam little rebound control, I guess I need a better shock. Not many options out there. I also run 140/80 metzler sahara rear for about a 1/2 inch larger tire diameter. The handling on the dirt is good, the road is a bit more twitchy.

With all the extra height I need a kickstand extension....

Nice paint job Wheeliebin - how'd you do it?

Saludos

 

Does it matter if I use stainless steel plumbing pipe for the spacer? I just found a peice that is near as dammit the exact same size as the spring but I also found some PVC that is close enough too. Just wondering if their would be any difference between the two?

Going to try with the SS tomorrow anyway with an initial space of 40mm and will lower it a bit from there I think.


Also, the rear pre-load, if I lower the amount of pre-load then it lowers the height of the bike correct? Will it effect anything else that I should be concerned about?

Cheers,
Ol

PS. Raising the rear and then taking a few days ride before raising the front may well result in unusual fuel readings and an empty tank. oops... Safe riding all!

 

How long are yr legs Wheelie ?

Looks useful but not for a Short A##e like me !

Still love the paint job !! :thumbup:

 

jamie, I haven't ever changed the forks and yokes, but I'm pretty sure with a little modification it would be a fairly straight forward conversion.

bt, I paid about 80 quid for the pair.

transalicante, sorry, didn't make it very clear - Yes, you have to remove the subchamber / header system to flip the rear linkage. As the linkage only alters the position of the bottom shock mounting point, the geometry remains unchanged.
As to the torsional strengh of the front forks, it could well be reduced, and would depend on how much abuse they get, haven't had a problem with mine, but then my off-road riding is very mild.

conquistagor, I converted my sidestand to make it adjustable, see this thread :
http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=21309

silveralp, I'm 6ft 1" and on tippee toes

 

Sorry for the delay, I have little time and check the website only two or three times a week.

I recently drove my TA on a sandy trail, and my feet were very useful to help me avoiding to fall, so maybe 60 mm more in the seat height will be too much.

I will probably start increasing the preload on both suspension, but how far to go without riding a woodpiece instead of a bike ?

Also, Conquistador, have you a picture of your bike from a sideview to see the height difference between the front and the back. Un saludo.

Thanks.

P.S. Does anyone know the price of the WP shock for the 650 TA. I think the height can be adjusted.

 

Hola y bienvenido a este forum.Yo soy ingles pero vivo aqui en Altea.No sabe nada de el TA...tengo un AT.La gente aqui estan lleno de informacion de todos los modelos de Honda y otros marcas.
Usted hablas y escribir ingles muy bien...mas que yo.
Saludos

 

The mods are now busily babelfish'ing.........................good luck with the sale

 

Hola, Altea es buen sitio para vivir y disfrutar de la moto !
Desde luego, esta es la mejor pagina web para encontrar informacion de las Hondas aventureras.

Hasta pronto.

Can be translated as: "Hi man, you're lucky to be riding your AT on the sunny face of Europe !"

 

De verdad
Thats true

:sunny:

 

Hello again,

Just found an Africa RD07 sump guard for 50 €. It needs some polishing to erase little crashes, but is good enough to protect my engine.
I'll try to put some pictures, but that will be on the end of march because I'm soon going on hollydays :toothy7:

Wheeliebin, apparently you used the same sump guard, did you had to modify it much to fit the bike ?

Thanks.

 

Not too much, I'll have to get the camera out, BT Bloke has the same sump-guard.

 

I know this is an oldish thread, but can I butt in?

In my experiance the TA is a tough beasty and can take loads more than many/all expect.

Essential things are a good sump guard, e.g. the TT one, although even that splits along the side welds, and some good crash bars, mainly to protect the radiators. Good footpegs also, try Suzuki rm85 ones! Gearshift from a CR85. Other stuff is just dressing up!

The main issue with ground clearance is not one to really worry about. The bike is WIDE at the bottom, that's where the problems are caused. I don't think it is easy to gain enough height to reduce that problem. Ruts are ruts, and much narrower than the bike. Hit them hard and fast, and belly surf to the next bit the wheels can grip on. Or ride in hedges!!

Wheel wise - keep the spokes well lubricated, I now use chain lube under the rim tape, so the nipples don't seize.

(more later)

 

Thanks for your answer Mudwiz.

Ruts ? So you're talking about mud ? I don't even remind when was the last time I saw that thing...

My problem is the stones. They grow all around my region, as well as the palm trees :thumbleft:

That's why I need a very good sump guard (the AT one will be good enough I hope), and better ground clearance if possible.

Wheeliebin improved the height of his bike in a clever way, but I don't feel confident about his fork strenght in the kind of trails I use to go here.

Coming soon, pictures of the AT sump guard modified to fit the TA.

 

Firstly guys, thanks for this thread! Ground clearance is something that I definatly need too improve (making a 200kg bike fly and then land on rocky ground is not good at the moment!) so seeing a few easy tips on how to make a bit of improvement is really good.

As far as extending the fork caps, maybe only extend them a little bit if you are worried about strength. As long as at least half of the original leg is held in the yoke I wouldn't expect it to be significantly weakend.

Adding preload is something I should have done a long time ago on the front. It is way too soft for my liking but is too late for different springs so a few washers will have to do.

Going to get all this done over the next few days so I will try to get photographs of everything to show the full changes and the new angle of the bike.

Ride safe,
Ol

 

get some crash bars that was the only thing i needed as well as my home made sump guard and pivert pegs

 

there are a lot of things that can be done to an alp, this is a thread from adv rider, well worth reading the hundreds of posts

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39170

 

How did this turn out?

And photos.............

 

Talk about casualty...

I just arrived from a friend's garage. He chopped the catalysator in a second hand exhaust header I bought on Ebay.

After this thread I did that:
http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/ride-reports-pictures/42014-morocco-transalp-650-october-09-a.html

The only mods on the bike were AT RD07 engine guard, shorter back indicators to avoid breakages, Touratech guards, Acerbis handlebar, KN filter, underseat socket to charge the camera batteries, and some other minor improvements.

After thatI just did some maintenance on the bike, like wheel bearings and others.

Now I have an articulated gear lever from an AT RD07 and a MIVV carbon exhaust 2 kgs lighter than the original one.

For my next travel to Morocco I want to install my freshly cat chopped exhaust header (3,250 kgs lighter), elongate a back second hand shock I found on Ebay to gain around 30 mm on the back, improve the front suspension and gain 30 mm on the front too, install home made handlebar risers, tapered headrace bearings and an articulated brake lever.

I'll try to put some pictures soon, any suggestion welcome.

Regards.