New clutch for my 99 600TA

[mostlyskint]

Hi All
Well its about time do my clutch at 45k. The slipping is getting noticeable now.
Does anyone know if I need gaskets to do the job. Also anyone gone for the uprated clutch?
I dont want to go for a heavier clutch if its going to make the clutch lever heavy as I do 1000 miles a month all year round.

I'm assuming its worth doing the springs and trow off bearing while im in there?
all knowledge gratefully received.

[StumpyFingers]

As it is a wet clutch it is best to change the gasket, if the plates need doing then why not renew the springs, as for heavy duty, I would not bother if the standard works fine.

[Lord Stig]

You will need a new clutch cover gasket, new gaskets for the downpipes, and preferably a new centre lock nut. I did this job on a friend's '89 TA (formerly my bike, so I felt I owed it to him...), and apart from getting the siezed downpipes off to get the cover off (we managed without in the end - amazing how much they can be made to flex out with a long lever...), but getting the centre nut off was a real pain. The problem was finding a way to lock the engine - turned out to be harder than expected!

In the end the slip turned out to have been caused by a really badly lubricated clutch cable that was simply not letting the clutch arm return. There was nothing wrong with the clutch at all - worth checking before you start. That was at 56,000 miles. My current AT is on 92/3,000 miles, and no sign of clutch slip, but clutches go at different times depending on how they've been used.

He fitted uprated springs and wished he hadn't bothered - they were far too heavy around town. I think I'd avoid those and just change the plates (if indeed they do turn out to need it).

[mostlyskint]

Thanks for the replies.
Getting the down pipe off is also my concern as it the manifold nut feels rusted solid. Been plus gasing it for a couple of weeks in readiness.
How did you lock the engine in the end? would an air impact wrench help?

Thanks again

[YEN_POWELL]

Bike in gear, huge person standing with all his weight on the rear footbrake and you with a long breaker bar and high quality socket (after unbending the little tab washer under the nut if it has one).

When I did my AT clutch (about 70,000 miles) it was only because of the notching in the basket which was making pulling away a bit jumpy. I replaced the friction plates because I was opening it up anyway but the old ones were in good condition and measured up as hardly worn. The springs were also well within tolerance and as my new ones hadn't arrived I left the old ones in. I filed the notches smooth after finding out how much a new basket costs.

I also reused the nut, but wished I had used a new one, as I kept worrying about it afterwards. They are quite cheap, I have one in a drawer now (along with the unused springs).

I also bought two gaskets (to allow me more than one go if I had any problems) and I didn't use either in the end. I had no problems with leaks afterwards but you don't know till you pull the cover off if the gasket is going to stay in one piece, so best to buy one just in case.

[mostlyskint]

Thanks Yen
just the info I needed..time to do some online shopping

[Lord Stig]

Yes, we used the same approach as Yen - in gear and one of us sitting on it while the other tries to undo the nut with an extension on the wrench. Apparently neither of us were as lardy as we thought because it was all too easy to turn the back wheel. In hindsight I wonder if a disk lock on the sprocket against the swing arm (protected by padding) would have done the trick. Also, an air impact wrench might just be an advantage....

[MandoBear]

Originally Posted by mostlyskint

How did you lock the engine in the end? would an air impact wrench help?

There is also a little tool from Honda (and others I'm sure) which wedges in between the primary gears (from crankshaft to clutch) and stops them turning. You'd probably have to make sure you have the correct one to fit properly, but I'm sure it would mean less stress on the gearbox than the locking the back wheel technique.