Front fork dilema - where to source

[fro5tie]

Dam...Dam... Dam...last stages of rebuild all going well. Had wheels powder coated and new bearings, going back lovely then came to tighten the four small nuts that hold the front axle in place. Consulted the haines manual set the torque wrench and snapped the bloody bolt aaaghhh !

I think the only solution is to replace the fork as it looks like the bolt is all part of the lower fork in which case I now need to find a new or a pair ... any advice would be really appreciated, where to source. Off to boil my head..... Dam...Dam....Dam...

[Lumiya]

You should always remember that torque settings are for new bolts and as you torque up the bolt it'll stretch slightly, try to torque it up again to the same rating and you;ll stretch it slightly again.. Eventually they snap

[Lutin]

I think the only solution is to replace the fork as it looks like the bolt is all part of the lower fork in which case I now need to find a new or a pair ... any advice would be really appreciated, where to source. Off to boil my head..... Dam...Dam....Dam...

Nope, they are studs. Is there any of the stud left protruding from the fork leg that you can get a purchase on?

For new ones, the part number is 92900060250E, 52p each from David Silver.

[fro5tie]

Thats a JR Hartley moment... Studs eh ? Yes there is some protruding, how do you remove them ?

Cheers

Steve

[Lutin]

Thats a JR Hartley moment... Studs eh ? Yes there is some protruding, how do you remove them ?

Cheers

Steve

Couple of methods spring to mind. Is there enough to get a good grip with a pair of Mole Grips?

Otherwise, file two flats on what's left of the stud and use a normal (smallish) spanner.

Bit of heat on what's left of the stud might make things a little easier. Heat it up then let it cool to break up any corrosion in the threads. Or use some penetrating oil - I've heard that PlusGas is better than WD40, but have yet to do a comparison.

If you are careful, either of these methods should see you right.

[fro5tie]

Thanks for the advice, will have a go tomorrow... just wondered is the screw thread on the stud as per normal or will it be reversed ?

cheers

steve

[Lutin]

Thanks for the advice, will have a go tomorrow... just wondered is the screw thread on the stud as per normal or will it be reversed ?

cheers

steve

Normal screw thread, nothing special at all.

[ChrisH]

Another method if you got a welder is to just tap the end of the stud that's left with the welding rod (welder turned on ) and the heat generated will usually free the broken bit and the rod gets stuck to the stud, bend the end of the rod over and use it to 'unscrew' the broken bit of stud. You don't want to strike an arc just get the welding rod stuck on the end of the stud... it has worked for me when small studs (not on my TA...) have broken flush with the surface and you can't get a mole grips on them, though caution is needed otherwise you could end up melting the fork leg etc.. it is a last ditch effort really but may be worth considering.

[Mervinh]

take the leg off take it too a engineering works they will sort it may cost ya a few quid but will be cheaper than a new fork leg bottom
Merv

[digitalcaptive]

you could always drill a hole down the centre of the broken stud and then buy the appropriately sized "easy out" these are like a small tap that will tighten into the drilled hole using a reverse thread therefore once it gets tight it'll start undoing the broken stud