Cutting out when clutch pulled in

[Windmill John]

Hi Guys, first thread since I sold my Dommie a while back; good to be back.
Now, what is going on! Just bought a 56 plate Transalp
And it's doing the same thing my old Vigor and Dommie did. Namely, when coming up to a junction, as you change down, when you pull the clutch in the engine dies.
If my speed's not high enough, I can't bump it, so I hit the starter.
Now, it's only happened yesterday and today, but I've only just got it.
It only has 6900 miles on it, very very clean.
Im going to make a bit of an assumption that it's electrical. I say this because the Vigor did it, the Dommie did it as well, they're all different carbs and the Transalp has two.
The only info I can give you is that the rev counter showed 1000 rpm at tickover; which sounds pretty good. Haynes shows 1200 +/- 100 rpm.
So last night I wound it up to about 1100 rpm by the clock.
Might be related, but cannot believe it.
This is the third bike of a similar family, someone must have a similar problem.
Any pointers appreciated.

Cheers

John

[pdsquire]

The third bike with the same fault?! That's an achievement.

The obvious culprit is that the switch on the clutch lever that prohibits the machine from starting when the stand is down is malfunctioning. Have you tried pulling the contacts off the back of the switch on the handlebars to see if it solves the problem?

[Austin]

Wow three consecutive bikes with the same problem!!! Doesn't sound electrical or switch related as it wouldnt just do it at lights or as you stop. What happens when you change gear or just pull the clutch in and coast? If it's the switch it would cut out then too. There's also the handlebar switch to consider to and the wiring between.

But it sounds more carb related to me. Tickover is low at 1000rpm. Try turning it up to say 1500 if that cures it then it is carb or fuel related and you just need to work out what, or strip it all down, clean, reset and reassemble.

[AIRWOLF]

could just be lean at bottom and slow tickover.

had same on my xr600, richened it up on mixture screw, no more stalling.

[Windmill John]

Thanks guys,

I'll try two of your methods, I feel it might be related to the revs dropping too much.

Is it right that if it happens to five consecutive bikes, Honda give you a free one

Maybe I should stop pressing the kill switch when I change down

I'll try the clutch switch first and then the idle mixture, see what happens.

I appreciate the comments about mixture, but it's a 2006 bike. I bought as new as possible, because without a garage, I wanted my main bike to be, initially maintenance free. I've just sold my 1978 R80/7 which purred along, wasn't expecting to play with carbs within the first week of ownership!!
I'm down to the one bike now, but want to get something small I can fit in my shed for fiddling with.
I just wanted the Transalp to be fiddle free for a bit longer

Cheers again

John

[tramp]

when the engine is warm

turn the revs upto say 1200rpm and does the revs stay steady or go up and down? if so its a stucj choke plunger-easily sotred with a skirt of wd40.

does it do it when bike is started from cold? again if no its the choke plunger sticking?

we have the means to solve anything-but dont tell the wife

[StumpyFingers]

It does sound as if your tick-over is too low.
When the bike is warm the tick-over should be even, about 1200 RPMs.
Turn the tick-over up to 1500 and run the bike until it is hot, now turn down the tick-over until is is steady between the 1000 and 1500 on the clock.

[Windmill John]

Thanks Stumpfingers and tramp, I'll ride home tonight, once warm I'll bring the tickover up and monitor for the rest of the trip and tomorrow morning's journey
John

[tizzi]

Blocked air filter. I know it's a lot smaller bike but my CG125 did this.

[Nareef]

If you've got a scott oiler fitted check the vacuum hose, it's got loose on both my bike and caused stalling like you describe.