Charging system problem

[whynot]

have you replaced the battery since replacing the regulator??? sometimes a knackered regulator will buckle the plates in the battery which will cause discharge.

hmm, no.

i got a new battery with the bike but once i had trouble with that i got the reg ... so both batteries have been used with the old reg. How would i check the battery is holding charge properly?

[T ALP]

Electrics are not my strong point butI believe a garage or a battery supplier will have a meter to check for voltage drop they just stick it across the terminals and see how long it takes to discharge to flat.
Chris

[alanvendy]

hmm, no.

i got a new battery with the bike but once i had trouble with that i got the reg ... so both batteries have been used with the old reg. How would i check the battery is holding charge properly?

charge the battery fully measure the voltage and note it, leave to stand disconnected from everything over night or a full day then re-check the voltage any drop would indicate a duff battery. simples
if the second reading is much the same as the first this would indicated a problem with the bike not the battery.

[whynot]

So i have just checked both batteries, the one not in the bike seems to be holding charge perfectly well.

The other seemed ok when i checked it this morning as well, but then i ran the bike for a few minutes and it gained 0.20 V.

will have a good look at the wiring when i get a chance, but it seems like something on the bike is draining the battery.

[StumpyFingers]

Think back to what you have done since the reg/rec went the last time and your problems began.

[whynot]

Ok so i've been monitoring voltages and it seems that if i ride the bike every day it's fine. But if i don't go anywhere for a day or so it struggles to start.
So something is obviously slowly (i checked for any current) draining the battery while the ignition is off.

I'm thinking the easy solution to this might be to fit some kind of isolating switch on the battery. This could also act as an extra immobiliser as well.

Anyone have any experience with this? what is the best way to install it and where should the switch go? etc.

[ADTT]

You can use this (its good up to 1000A peak) and hide it under your seat but....try and find the problem.

[T ALP]

Ok so i've been monitoring voltages and it seems that if i ride the bike every day it's fine. But if i don't go anywhere for a day or so it struggles to start.
So something is obviously slowly (i checked for any current) draining the battery while the ignition is off.

I'm thinking the easy solution to this might be to fit some kind of isolating switch on the battery. This could also act as an extra immobiliser as well.

Anyone have any experience with this? what is the best way to install it and where should the switch go? etc.

Strange one this, you would think the ammeter to earth check would show the slightest drain. Or could it be a make/break drain somewhere as when the bike is moved or handle bars turned.

Still think the best way to check the battery might be the voltage drop test at a shop, fully charged to flat straight off, I think it will give a better indication of the kind of condition its in.

Instead of using a isolator switch in the past (as they used to be expensive, no idea what they cost these days) ) I have used heavy duty spade connectors, just pushing them together. ------ Chris

[T ALP]

Forgot to ask in my reply above and not having read back on the thread----- has the starter motor been checked out could it be starting to have a problem in some way like weak brush contact, don't want to worry you just a suggestion. ------ Chris

[StumpyFingers]

You could get a solar charger and connect it when the bike is not in use, that should help keep the battery from draining.