Profi Dry Lube for your chain.

[Grey alp]

Okay ,after almost 30.000km i'am tired of cleaning the greasy mess that regular chain oil leaves behind on rearwheel ,spokes ,sidestand ,on/near frontsprocket ,centrestand and so on.

I've been told that this Profi Dry Lube would be the solution.
Based on teflon no more oil flying everywhere.

Anyone experiance with this produckt?
I mean ,is it good enough as other chain lube ,sufficiant for the regular 300mile/500km interval maintenance?


Enjoy

[Mabels Old Man]

I used to use it on my ZX12's. Never had a problem seemed to work and kept the chain really clean.

[clutchspring]

Never bother with spray on chaine lube , all ways fit scott oilers to my bikes, some people do not like them but when properly fitted & set up they are great,
Ian.

[raymo]

Never bother with spray on chaine lube , all ways fit scott oilers to my bikes, some people do not like them but when properly fitted & set up they are great,
Ian.

+1 here they are a pita to initial set up and folk let then run out so have a bother priming and getting messy.... fitted the high capacity resevoir before I did TLD 2000 mile.. recon its got 6000 left before I have to spent 10 mis to remove number plate and fill it... any one with a scotoiler should fit the HCR worth it

[Farky]

Haven't bothered with the HCR but the Lube Tube is great!

Reckon it takes 30k miles to break even on a Scotoiler vs just replacing c&s every 10k.

Q is, can you be bothered oiling ur chain any other way to help it get to 10k. Otherwise it may only do 5/6k, in which case you need a Scotoiler!

+1 here they are a pita to initial set up and folk let then run out so have a bother priming and getting messy.... fitted the high capacity resevoir before I did TLD 2000 mile.. recon its got 6000 left before I have to spent 10 mis to remove number plate and fill it... any one with a scotoiler should fit the HCR worth it

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[ADTT]

Use Bel-Ray super clean chain lube.
It will not fly off if you spay it on a warm chain and leave it for about an hour without riding the bike.
I use it for over 7 years and i am very pleased!!

Bel-Ray | Consumer | Products | Bel-Ray Super Clean Chain Lube

[ABC]

Scottoiler is a waste of money I agree. Apart from the cost, they add work in fitting it, refilling the reservoir, correcting the faults that develop and worst of all perhaps the fling and consequent mess on the bike, the rider and the drips on the garage floor. But there is always fling because it dispenses liquid oil which is bound to be thrown off to some extent. Superficially they are attractive, fit one and your chain will be forever well lubed. In practice they are a messy hassle, even the latest electronically controlled dispensing version is bound to create mess because it uses the same liquid oil.

Far preferable in my view are the sort of spray-ons mentioned. I use Castrol Chain Wax but all the ones that thicken greatly after application work in a similar way. Apply when the chain is hot after a ride, leave it for short while and it soaks in and thickens to prevent fling. The important difference between these and auto oilers in reducing fling is the type of lube used. The spray-on stuff becomes so thick after application that fling is virtually non existent but the Scott has to use thin liquid oil.

Incidentally, my Castrol works well in having next to no fling but I read somewhere a good review of this:

Motrax Tecflow Ceramic Chain Wax

which has even less fling than the near zero Castrol. Might try it next time.

[Nessmuk]

After reading of people using EP90 I've been giving it a go myself. Having only got rid of my Defender last year I've still got some hanging around so it cost me nothing.

I've been using a toothbrush to put it on. OK, it a little time consuming to do but it seems to work brilliantly. As it's a very thick oil it doesn't seem to fling off at all and lasts quite well.

The only problem as far as I can tell is the smell, which some people might hate. It reminds me of my Land Rover though, hot axles and t/box.

[Snaphappy]

Got the pro-oiler mysalf and will never go back to manual lubes

the oil does fling off though just like the Scotty so if your after a clean bike then the dry stuff and leaving it to cure would be better, if your touring you need to redo every night though. PITA

[raymo]

If you dont like the mess get a shaft drive

XLV is a shafty and I love the way the back end of the bike is clean and all I need to do is change the 100cc of EP 90 in the bevel drive every 8000miles ( I do it yearly its a 10 min job with the oil change which is 15mins on an XLV )

oh back to chains.. The scotoiler or any other metered oiler with HCR means I dont need to worry about filling or any other repair issue as you only need to mess with it every 6-8000miles

the adjustment is easy to get to and clean being behind the number plate..

no smelly tins of lube on long trips..

no chain adjustment just a simple check with the boot

regarding a cost benifit analysis of changing chains every 10000miles...

chain spliter riviter.. not cheap

angle ginder...

new OEM front sprocket tab * bolts £40+ from David Silver

etc..

a week to get the oil out your pores

plus the last few thousand miles.. the risk of the chain going west and the anoying rattle...

use what you are comfortable with .. but a well installed and set up chain oiler with a big lazy resevoir is for me


also remember that the oil is to keep the o rings that hold the grease in the chain pins from drying out.. not to lube the chain.. no more than 1 drip a min..

ok have read reports of lube oilers not being that helpfull in sandy conditions.... well in that case run dry and clean & light lube the chain when you stop ( its nice and warm then ) then turn the oiler back up when out of the desert...