Smoke and Flames -- BAD!!!!!

[T ALP]

[QUOTE=Mr Beeza;632601]Mmmmm...can't agree that it won't take much to put a disc out of true; stainless discs are very strong. What lightweight ones do you mean - I didn't know that such were available?

Can't agree that pulse you felt had something to do with out of true discs - it had to do with deposits on the disc. If you have any more pulsing and get rid of the discs, send them to me. Muchas gracias.[/Q

Mmmmm...can't agree that it won't take much to put a disc out of true; stainless discs are very strong. What lightweight ones do you mean - I didn't know that such were available?

Can't agree that pulse you felt had something to do with out of true discs - it had to do with deposits on the disc. If you have any more pulsing and get rid of the discs, send them to me. Muchas gracias.

I won't go out of my way to prove it but Im'e willing to bet a considerable amount of the latest bike discs are a few mil. thinner than the early types plus then you have this wavy disc craze on some Iv'e seen there's hardly bugger all left! There#s got to be a limit to fashion/lightness somewhere

The warped discs I had were BMW R stainless and no they had'nt picked up they were parallel and smooth, admitted they were grooved but if thats concentric it should'nt affect anything, BUT they were warped, the callipers were working OK, now if a disc (especially a non floating disc) is rotating out of true either the calliper copes with the movement which is just about impossible and so the disc puts alternating pressure on the pads which feeds alternating pressure back up the fluid/piston/lever.

Looked at the stoptech web page and have to admit I havn't read every single letter, and although its interesting I kept thinking when is this guy going to say something relevant to bike discs! He's talking car stuff and when you have said its basically the same principal you have said enough. He must get two thirds the way down the artical before he even mentions steel discs then two or three lines later simply says so lets hear no more about steel discs. Most of us will have played about with the road going 12 mil. thick cast iron car discs braying the crap out of them to get corrosion off and yes finding they have picked up/out of parallel and pulsing like hell, but no sorry bikes --- its another ball game UOTE]

[Mr Beeza]

[QUOTE=T ALP;632639]

Mmmmm...can't agree that it won't take much to put a disc out of true; stainless discs are very strong. What lightweight ones do you mean - I didn't know that such were available?

Can't agree that pulse you felt had something to do with out of true discs - it had to do with deposits on the disc. If you have any more pulsing and get rid of the discs, send them to me. Muchas gracias.[/Q

I won't go out of my way to prove it but Im'e willing to bet a considerable amount of the latest bike discs are a few mil. thinner than the early types plus then you have this wavy disc craze on some Iv'e seen there's hardly bugger all left! There#s got to be a limit to fashion/lightness somewhere

The warped discs I had were BMW R stainless and no they had'nt picked up they were parallel and smooth, admitted they were grooved but if thats concentric it should'nt affect anything, BUT they were warped, the callipers were working OK, now if a disc (especially a non floating disc) is rotating out of true either the calliper copes with the movement which is just about impossible and so the disc puts alternating pressure on the pads which feeds alternating pressure back up the fluid/piston/lever.

Looked at the stoptech web page and have to admit I havn't read every single letter, and although its interesting I kept thinking when is this guy going to say something relevant to bike discs! He's talking car stuff and when you have said its basically the same principal you have said enough. He must get two thirds the way down the artical before he even mentions steel discs then two or three lines later simply says so lets hear no more about steel discs. Most of us will have played about with the road going 12 mil. thick cast iron car discs braying the crap out of them to get corrosion off and yes finding they have picked up/out of parallel and pulsing like hell, but no sorry bikes --- its another ball game UOTE]

You could have killed yourself! What were you thinking of fitting wobbly, damaged BMW discs to your TA? No wonder they were belching flames and smoke. They were grooved because bare metal pads scored the hell out of them at some time. That isn't fatal, but it shows that some gorilla abused them -you say they were "warped"; I don't understand it when you say they were "warped" and also that they were "parallel and smooth". You've lost me there. Sorry.

Can I politely suggest that your ideas on modern discs are really only guesswork? You seem to be saying that many of these discs are too thin and dangerous.....hmmm.

Sorry too that the website was too long - the point was about deposits on discs. But if you fit discs like that....well, for sure you'll have problems. If you told us first about these warped and grooved discs well maybe I'd have realised that the website was unsuitable for you.

Anyway, that'll do for me..;best of luck.

[T ALP]

OK then so we are sorted and first thing in the morning I will remove those BM discs from my alp! ------ and thats enough of a wind up for this sunday folks safe riding and braking to all

[sadpsych]

OK folks, Update: Phoned around a couple of "friendly" Honda dealers.

Took the plunge and decided to go for the whole refurb bit. Master cyclinder and caliper.

Caliper Piston, seals, boots, hanger pin. Check.

Dot 4 And Pads. Check.

Master Cylinder O rings, Bolt, split pin. Check.

The important bit the Master cylinder Piston. Not in Stock.(Anywhere) Delivery Time 4 to six weeks!!!!!! GGGGGRRRRRRRRRRR!

No refurb kit available, what a pain.

Why so long, when i can get something from the other side of the world in a couple of days.

[Chad]

OK folks, Update: Phoned around a couple of "friendly" Honda dealers.

Took the plunge and decided to go for the whole refurb bit. Master cyclinder and caliper.

Caliper Piston, seals, boots, hanger pin. Check.

Dot 4 And Pads. Check.

Master Cylinder O rings, Bolt, split pin. Check.

The important bit the Master cylinder Piston. Not in Stock.(Anywhere) Delivery Time 4 to six weeks!!!!!! GGGGGRRRRRRRRRRR!

No refurb kit available, what a pain.

Why so long, when i can get something from the other side of the world in a couple of days.

do the caliper and see what results come from that , i will be shocked if the master cylinder is the issue

[Mr Beeza]

Glad you're getting it sorted. Nothing worse than worrying about brakes. Happy reassembly!

[T ALP]

OK folks, Update: Phoned around a couple of "friendly" Honda dealers.

Took the plunge and decided to go for the whole refurb bit. Master cyclinder and caliper.

Caliper Piston, seals, boots, hanger pin. Check.

Dot 4 And Pads. Check.

Master Cylinder O rings, Bolt, split pin. Check.

The important bit the Master cylinder Piston. Not in Stock.(Anywhere) Delivery Time 4 to six weeks!!!!!! GGGGGRRRRRRRRRRR!

No refurb kit available, what a pain.

Why so long, when i can get something from the other side of the world in a couple of days.

Nothing new here Im'e afraid, I needed some geabox parts for a CB750 back in the seventies they wern't available anywhere! I eventually got them from Bill Smith motors in chester ----- to the best of my knowledge they were selling brand new bikes for spares.

good luck getting sorted.

[sadpsych]

Hokee dokee folks, update.

stripped and cleaned calipers, new seals, pins and springs. New Pads, Stripped and rebuilt master cylinder, flushed brake system, bled them to death.

Lo and behold takes bike out for a test. gets about 5 miles down the road and can feel the rear dragging. Caliper is Red hot.

So its still sticking.

Ideas on a post card please

[hotbulb]

About the only original bit left is the hose. It's possible that the inner lining of the hose is breaking down and acting as a non-return valve and stopping the brake from releaasing fully. You could try a new hose.

[Chad]

Hokee dokee folks, update.

stripped and cleaned calipers, new seals, pins and springs. New Pads, Stripped and rebuilt master cylinder, flushed brake system, bled them to death.

Lo and behold takes bike out for a test. gets about 5 miles down the road and can feel the rear dragging. Caliper is Red hot.

So its still sticking.

Ideas on a post card please

did you strip clean the sliders and replace the rubbers on the calliper carrier, as if the calliper cannot float freely this will cause the same issues ? also check how tight the lever is dialled in it could be adjusted up to tight.